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1987 conquest assistance with my new electrical issues, dead alternator


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#1 kaaos

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Posted 21 May 2020 - 05:11 PM

So i went in and cut out some fried and highly corroded connections i deleted the 2 pin connector by the battery and added a new alternator batt cable. also had to cut some cooked wires on the bottom of the underhood fuse box.

When i connected the ground it made a loud crack noise. and made a weld mark. I dont see any part of the new alternator cable touching the alternator.

I keep looking at the manual but am unable to confirm the alternator harness looks like the thick white/green wire goes to the tail lights. I am also unable to make sense of the 3 pin connector if it is connected correctly to the body harness running along the fender.
Where I think I messed up is the alternator harness due to the fact how big the welding mark was. and I added heavier gauge stuff where I could.

Also is it possible for a bad alternator to short and cause these issues? with the welding the cable to the battery? I think part of the reason for tearing part of the damn wiring apart is because i dont think my alternator was charging the car for a very long time.  I believe i was getting spark blowout under boost. which was very evident the longer i drove the car. at first for a few minutes it ran ok then slowly fell off. then when the battery was very low last time it barely ran, and unplugging the ground the car would turn off before.

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Welding marks
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thought I found it before, thought it was where the alternator cable went to the lug on the alternator but 95% sure it was not that it is well wrapped with thick audi Heat shrink and the oem mitsubishi cover, though it is damaged.
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Removed the alternator to check it later.

. The unit is still removable.
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peeled back the wires I lengthened and soldered then heatshrinked that goes to the 3 prong connector looks like 3 white/brown stripe go to one wire, I think this is the ignition? and the other Blue/white and White/black goes to the Fuse box per the engine bay fuses label. of course black goes to the 3 prong Eci fuse.
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Edited by kaaos, 21 May 2020 - 05:14 PM.

1g eclipse maf? removed MAf-t gen 2  after my 16g died.
Rebuilt motor Wiseco 8.0 compression forged pistons
Race prepped rods
Arp rod and headgasket studs.
Headworks valve Job factory polished valves Polished chambers
1989 ECU, BSEK, Ajusa HG, Extensively ported and polished head (Alabama NJV)/intake/exhaust manifolds, Aeromotive fpr, Hallman MBC, all new brakes and bearings, *DM 2.5" exhaust with a Hooker Aerochamber.
stock 12a, hope to change soon to a small 16g.
240mm Fidanza aluminum 10.5 pd flywheel xtd 225mm clutch
1989 Transmission with 36k





#2 tsi_tom

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Posted 21 May 2020 - 08:45 PM

From now I would only connect the hot side with a 5 amp fuse to the positive battery terminal and the leaded side of the positive battery cable. Make sure everything is off including the dome light.  If the fuse blows you still have a hard fault.  I would disconnect the starter and alternator and the connect the 5 amp fuse and see if it blows.


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#3 kaaos

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Posted 22 May 2020 - 10:56 AM

thanks i will try that
1g eclipse maf? removed MAf-t gen 2  after my 16g died.
Rebuilt motor Wiseco 8.0 compression forged pistons
Race prepped rods
Arp rod and headgasket studs.
Headworks valve Job factory polished valves Polished chambers
1989 ECU, BSEK, Ajusa HG, Extensively ported and polished head (Alabama NJV)/intake/exhaust manifolds, Aeromotive fpr, Hallman MBC, all new brakes and bearings, *DM 2.5" exhaust with a Hooker Aerochamber.
stock 12a, hope to change soon to a small 16g.
240mm Fidanza aluminum 10.5 pd flywheel xtd 225mm clutch
1989 Transmission with 36k




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