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BoostedStroker

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    35
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Okemos, MI
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    48864
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    ESI
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Majorca Black
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Hey ya'll, i recently was driving to work on a off ramp onto another part of the highway, hit a bump, tire blew and hit the guard rail 3 times going 60 mph. The car still runs fine, goes into all gears fine (radiator and intercooler was not damaged) and will move under its own power but i wouldnt say its driveable as the front bumper assembly is smashed up along with the fenders, and a tail light is busted out. I am located in Okemos, MI and selling the car as a WHOLE and asking $800 for it. It will need to be towed, here is a link to the craigslist ad with all the information http://lansing.craigslist.org/cto/5047318515.html
  2. No problem! hopefully it will help someone out if there having the same problem! I drove it last night (about 25 mile drive home) after i let the car warm up and it defiantly helped alot, it did it once maybe twice, but majority of the time had zero problems. I do bet my pickup coil is probably a bit worn out as it looks original, already ordered one from rock auto so when it gets here ill throw it on and see if there is any changes.
  3. After routing it the correct way, i just drove it a few miles and couldnt get it to stutter or misfire when it was warm. Ill know more after i drive it home tonight.
  4. Ah gotcha, hm not sure why the PO had it like it was? just routed it back to the original spot and going to take it for a drive and see what she does
  5. The fuel pressure regulator is NOT plumbed like it was originally. The port on the throttle plate it goes to originally is not producing any vacuum, i tried blowing air through it and its not plugged as it stalls out the engine but it does not create any vacuum so its T'eed into the source for the vacuum advance. So the vacuum/pressure source for the FPR needs to come from a source ABOVE the throttle plate? (above meaning the intake side)
  6. I did run a compression test to verify that the motor was rebuilt (even though i could see the new gaskets on the motor) and it did really well on all 4. I would really like to take the injectors out and have them atleast cleaned and tested. If the pick up coil dosent solve the problem that will be the next step. Is trilogy the only company that sells upgraded tbi injectors? Here is a pic of the pick up coil... Rust all over so i think its defiantly time for replacement. http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0522150011.jpg
  7. Well i replaced every clamp on the intercooler, didnt solve that problem but did pick up 2 psi across the board so there was a slight boost leak... I am going to check that cap and rotor next, I just put it in not 3 months ago and ordered the most expensive cap and rotor from rock auto so it shouldn't be a quality problem. I think TEXASQUEST is onto something with the pickup coil... because it will also come close to stalling out every once in a while and it did stall out went it got really warm outside. May end up ordering one of those... for $40 its defiantly worth a shot. I mean i am running out of parts to test or check
  8. I rechecked the spark plug gap and they were still at .030 so i gapped them down to .028, the cap and rotor is brand new but i will recheck them to make sure they didnt come loose. I went to pull off part of the intercooler piping to check the throttle body and noticed the clamps were fairly loose. Having a boost leak would defiantly cause my problem and after regapping the spark plugs and tighenting the clamps i could get to it seemed to help a bit because i saw the boost go up to 15 psi when it normally only hits 13 so it was defiantly leaking. Also makes sense because i could tighten the MBC to up the boost and it wouldnt go past 13 psi no matter what... Going to atleast put new clamps on all the boots and inspect the boots.
  9. Also noticed intell it reaches operating temp. its worse then when its warm will even stutter/misfire if i just floor it. I am starting to think it could possibly be a injector problem? But then again when its warmed up it runs pretty darn good under full boost...
  10. Hey ya'll, i have been having a slight problem sense i have got the car but now that i am trying to dial the car in for a bigger turbo i am trying to figure out whats going on. Its a 87 Conquest with intake, exhaust, aftermarket intercooler, off brand BOV, boost gauge, shortband A/F gauge, msd coil, rebuilt motor with 18k miles, MBC and running 13 psi on the stock 12a. The car will misfire a bit at 3/4 throttle then pull just fine, it ONLY does it if i lean into the throttle and ONLY at 3/4 throttle. If i just step on it i have zero problems or stay below 3/4 throttle. It does it worse when the vehicle is cold. Here is what i have done to the car... - Replaced Vacuum advance (the one off rockauto) - Replaced spark plug wires - Replaced spark plugs with NGKs bpr7es gapped at .030 (also have the bur7ea-11's part number #7031 i have tried and it seems the car likes the bpr7es more? I can try putthing the 7031s back in? - Replaced dist. cap and rotor - Checked timing and its perfect - Checked FPR and fuel pressure and its working correctly (the nipple on the TB the fpr gets it vacuum/pressure from is not working so i have it connected to the source for the vacuum advance, i did verfiy that the fpr operates normally and it does) - Replaced ignition coil with a MSD Blaster 2 coil - Checked the TPS sensor using a scope to make sure there was no bad spots and its working correctly - Checked the MAF to make sure its working probably using a snap on verus and its working properly - According to the shortband the car is not leaning out but obviously its a shortband so not excatly very accurate.
  11. I was referring to the flange northstar posted to bolt a DSM td05 pattern to the stock manifold.
  12. So this flange is what is used to bolt a DSM TD05 flange turbo to the stock manifold? I know there just a hair off from each other right? That other link would be a great alternative but its still pretty pricey for my application...
  13. Like i said its not pretty but i will safe it! http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0328152227.jpg http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0328152228.jpg http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u94/okmsfootball81/0328152228a.jpg
  14. WOW! i really appreciate the warm welcome! Yeah the curse has already started... already upgraded the brakes to slotted/cross drilled rotors, new calipers, ceramic pads, installed a aux fan, subwoofer and amp, manual boost controller, msd coil and of course all the basic fluids, filters etc. being a mechanic i do get alittle OCD when i get a new to me vehicle A new turbo is going to happen here in the next month or two and what i really love is things are ALOT cheaper in the gasoline world vs the modified diesel world (Injectors alone are $2000-$3500). The car has been lowered and the frame rails were the first thing i checked, and yeah the passenger side was COMPLETELY rotted out no metal left what so ever for about a 8" section. Already patched that up though! The other side is not nearly as bad but is getting fixed here shortly. Next step is to get started on fixing the outside rust... infront of the rear wheels is rotted out bad so i think i may end up running a dual side exit in front of the rear tires like the roush mustangs do. I do really enjoy driving it though! defiantly not the most powerful thing but the should change with a bigger turbo!
  15. So after looking around it seems like the Evo 3 16g turbo is a viable option for what im looking for? Seems like it fits with a few minor modifications and can achieve 275-300rwhp with the right supporting mods without a problem. Any advice or input is greatly appreciated!
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