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AustinTSI

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Gender
    Male

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  • Website URL
    http://www.austincs.com/car

Previous Fields

  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    ESI-R
  • Model Year
    1989
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Fiji Blue
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Being Modded

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  1. I will much prefer you design then. I am very interested especially with the sprung hubs. Tilton is just too expensive but I wouldn't mind the Spec Super Twin (not the mini). Let me know when you have some additional info and I will be able to pull the money together quickly. I am very interested as this is the last major piece I need other than the bell housing for my T56 but that has to wait until I get the clutch figured out.
  2. Competition Clutch says they have an adapter for flywheels that will allow you to mount one of their twin disk clutches on an OEM flywheel but I have not checked it out yet.
  3. Can you give some more info on this? You mentioned a long wait for the flywheel so does that mean it will be for the stock flywheel as that would be very surprising. Does it use sprung hubs? OEM flywheel, fidanza flywheel? Will it need to be modified?
  4. I am very interested as I am about to start working on my project car in the next couple of months and the whole clutch issue is one of the big hold ups for me.
  5. I talked to bill and his bell housing will NOT fit the larger flywheel. BUT, he can/will make the housing work with a 4g63 AWD clutch/flywheel which is what he is fabbing up for me right now along with the motor mounts and T56 mounts.
  6. I'm already meeting this guy in the next day or two.
  7. Only the turbo cranks are nitrided. The 4g64 and the 4g63 normally aspirated cranks were not nitrided. Also, if your 4g54 was turned more than a certain amount then you would want to get it re-nitrided. I don't remember the amount but I believe someone on here did some testing before.
  8. I am going to have a crank and my cams for my 4g64 swap nitrided. There is enough room for about 10 cranks so I thought I would see if other people might be interested. It will run around $50-$100 for either a crank or a set of cams plus shipping but I haven't nailed it down yet and it will have to be done in batches. Meaning I have to have enough items to create a batch to process. The stock crank is already nitrided but if you have had it turned then this would be a good thing to do. Nitriding cams helps them to last longer and makes them have a lower coefficient of friction. I'm going to run it like this. I will post solid prices. Once I have commitments to the equivalent of 8 cranks (2 cams per crank) I will ask everyone to ship me their items. Once I have them all; or 1-2 weeks, I will have them treated. Once they are done, I will send you a bill to have your item shipped back to you. I'm not looking to make money here, I just happen to have a very good source for nitriding and want to offer it to other people. David.
  9. I've seen the seats for $800 for the two front but they sell very quick. That particular ad is way over priced.
  10. these but you can find them a lot cheaper http://www.ebay.com/itm/RECARO-CTS-V-COUPE-SEATING-FLAWLESS-/151553378463?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item234949089f&vxp=mtr
  11. I was wondering if anyone has checked if the Cadillac Recaro seats would fit in a Starion? I'm betting they are too large. David.
  12. I just talked to Bill and he is going to get this finished one way or the other in the next few days.
  13. On my Starion I had a lug spin loose from the front hub on me once and had to take the hub nut off through the center of the rim then take the rim with the hub still attached to a welder and have him cut the lug off. The stock front hubs (sometimes) have c-clips on the front of the lugs to keep them from backing out when you bump them putting a rim on. The head of the lug has a flattened head (as shown) that sits flush against a ridge on the back side to keep it from turning. Mine spun in the hole; probably from being over-tightened, and damaged the ridge which then allowed the whole lug/stud to spin. The rear hub/stud combo has splines/knurls (as shown) to keep the lug from spinning in the hub.
  14. So it sounds like a 2" spacer it is. That would actually work perfect as I would be able to mount the 9" rim on the car before having it widened, play with the spacer to get just the look that I want, then measure how much clearance I actually have to make the rim as wide as possible. Sounds perfect! I'm not a big fan of extended lugs through spacers but I have no problem with bolt on spacers. I'll have a 240sx suspension on all four corners but on my stock Starion I had a lug spin loose from the hub on me once and had to take the hub nut off through the center of the rim then take the rim with the hub still attached to a welder and have him cut lug off. The stock front hubs have c-clips on the front of the lugs to keep them from backing out when you bump them putting a rim on. The head of the lug has a flattened head that sits flush against a ridge on the back side to keep it from turning. Mine spun in the hole probably from being over-tightened and damaged the ridge which then allowed the whole lug/stud to spin. The rear hub/stud combo has splines/knurls to keep the lug from spinning in the hub. Thanks Patra!
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