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DodgebyDave

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About DodgebyDave

  • Birthday 05/10/1962

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  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Model
    Other
  • Type
    Other
  • Model Year
    Other
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. That's why I'm here, to find out if I'm doing something wrong. My 1987 LeBaron Turbo will start just fine on the remote with the key to "run". Didn't know. Placeholder while I follow up on your post. I'm old with old eyes that don't see. It's a convieniant excuse after you hit 50.
  2. what killed the battery was too many deep cycles after left sitting discharged all winter. around mid november I gashed myself a good one on the knee playing paul bunyon with a chain saw. Rookie stuff. The battery on the Lebaron turbo did`t get disconnected and froze as well. I checked for draws, nothing with the alarm fuse out. just a slight draw with the fuse in. after disconnecting the battery for 5 mins it is still showing 1/5/6
  3. I have codes 1, 3, 5, 6. the injector clips appear to be good and tight. I clipped on a spare new lead and checked with an ohm meter. wiggled the connector around without a loss of continuity. 14 volts available for all tests. The one thing I've managed to accomplish has been to kill a new battery. Yeah, one dead cell. Reinstalled the ovcp Injectors show 0 ohms 14 volts at the injector clips, both are black as it looks like both have been replaced before. I bench tested both injectors with a 12v 750 ma battery. Both appear to be working and spraying. I emoved the pipe to watch what was up. neither leak after shutdown. The wires themselves have long sinced changed from yellow to a light brown and not excessively brittle. I tested the voltage from start to shut down with no drops. the resistor measures 0 ohms from 1-2, 0 ohms from 1-3, 0 ohms from 2-3. No continuity from 1,2,or 3 to the case. 14 volts in and out. The only difference from the op video is that it won't start or idle on the back (green) injector now. The only thing I'm sure of is the distributer timing is correct
  4. Sorry I haven't been back to this, Thanks for the input. It did run when it got here. Clutch didn't work ad engine leaked like a sieve. I replaced the front/rear seal and most everthing else except the head, Timing cover and the intake/exhaust. While doing that was when I noticed that both of the injector connecters had seen better days and replaced. I have double checked both of those to make sure I didn't screw up a butt connecter. Both are sound It's throwing codes 1, 5,6. I have no idea what a dizzy is. I do know what "flightline", rotorwash and rubberband/board stretchers are. (I am sure that I will be ashamed I couldn't figure it out once I know) I am off to do that ISC thing referred to and such Working on this deal till it's done. It will kill me or I'll kill it. It was a recluse that bit me. Got in my shoe, damn near ate a hole in my foot. Nothing to mess with. Even if you just think it's a recluse bite go get it looked at right away. I went to the ER within the hour and still almost lost my foot. They are that bad tail
  5. I have an interesting dilemma. 1987 Conquest, belongs to a forum member. He brought it to my shop to fix the oil leaks (just about every seal and gasket leaked), hyd clutch system rebuild, clean up some of the wiring. In the mean time the thing sat here a while due to an Injury, spider bite, then hurt again. Anyway. The dang thing acts just like a 60's Mopar Product with the ballast resistor points/condensor style ignition. Starts, then immediatly dies. Bad resistor or wires. No big deal, diagnose by rigging a jumper wire, if it runs you replace the resistor. Only these cars don't have those. At least not that I can find in the SQC manual section. So, I have checked the pump both in the start circuit and the jumper terminal. I have not tested the pump pressure. The pump does put out enough pressure you have to hold your thumb over the orifice with effort. I replaced the fuel filter and fresh gas. Am I chasing a ghost that is an ignition poblem masqurading as a fuel problem? Spark at all plugs when cranking. I did replace one injector connector. The resistor that is on the injector side of the harness has 0 ohms between all 3 terminals. I'm an exp mechanic but new to these cars. Is there something stupidly simple that I'm missing?
  6. Why am I in this bucket? Where are we going?
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