

Fuel pump help!
#1
Posted 31 July 2019 - 10:17 AM
Thanks!
(I've pulled the fuel line off after the pump before the regulator, and it was just barely pumping out any fuel. Pretty sure it's not a regulator problem)
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#2
Posted 31 July 2019 - 10:32 AM
Edited by croquest87, 31 July 2019 - 10:42 AM.
#3
Posted 31 July 2019 - 11:27 AM
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#4
Posted 31 July 2019 - 11:31 AM
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#5
Posted 31 July 2019 - 12:39 PM
#6
Posted 31 July 2019 - 09:44 PM
Interested in: CF 83 style hood, CF air daayyuum. Ohh and turbo-to-intercooler hardpipe.
#7
Posted 01 August 2019 - 05:56 AM
W18 Rocky White Starion
Hx35 Turbo,T3 Log Header,3inch dp,External Wastegate,Ported Everything.Air Conditioning!
Daily Driver
DIY http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
Parts http://www.enginemac...ms/conquest.php
#8
Posted 01 August 2019 - 07:54 AM
#9
Posted 01 August 2019 - 12:40 PM
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#10
Posted 01 August 2019 - 03:18 PM
There is a ground on the stock exhaust at the rear of the car.
Edited by 81zfan, 01 August 2019 - 03:19 PM.
#11
Posted 01 August 2019 - 04:47 PM
I have a pressure gauge at my regulator, I just don't trust it. It reads 0, sometimes 15, yet I can take the feed line off at the regulator and it is just barely dribbling fuel. It's fluid filled and depending on the heat it can also drop several PSI.
Basically the pump is feeding just enough fuel to keep the car idling, and that's about it... Even with 0 restrictions after the pump and no known restrictions before the pump (pretty sure it has no strainer on the pickup tube). I'm leaning towards some voltage issue, but I don't see how. I'll drop the tank again, check the voltage, and put a beefy ground on it tomorrow or this weekend. Fingers crossed.
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#12
Posted 01 August 2019 - 06:42 PM
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator, MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, SPA fuel regulator, Hallman boost controller

JohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:
<SOS> http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
<SQ Garage> http://www.starquestgarage.com/
#13
Posted 01 August 2019 - 07:00 PM
My vote is a bad or dud regulator. But of course check your voltage to the pump first and buy a darn pressure gauge and put it on that regulator,they’re like $30.
Kevin
#14
Posted 02 August 2019 - 04:24 AM
W18 Rocky White Starion
Hx35 Turbo,T3 Log Header,3inch dp,External Wastegate,Ported Everything.Air Conditioning!
Daily Driver
DIY http://sosmanuals.minagera.org/
Parts http://www.enginemac...ms/conquest.php
#15
Posted 02 August 2019 - 06:50 AM
I've had bad luck out of the chinese liquid filled gauges and even some usa liquid filled.
I'd get me a gauge with the electric sensor and put it on the regulator, then you can watch it from inside the car at all times
#16
Posted 02 August 2019 - 10:33 AM
It's a Walboro 255, brand new from a licensed distributor. I also thought it was a dud pump, so I bought another brand new pump and put it in and had the exact same issue.
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#17
Posted 02 August 2019 - 10:52 PM
Anyways before I caught everything on fire sure enough the pump pushed out a pretty significant amount of fuel, nothing like what has been dribbling out of the lines, but then it seemed to slow down like it lost its initial prime and started sucking in air or something. I'm definitely going to re-do that AN line (the first AN line I ever made was the feed line for the fuel pump - smart huh? I could see where the hose wasn't pushed in all the way and could be drawing in air, I was actually able to undo the compression part of the fitting by hand with the line and fitting remaining in-tact. AKA I didn't really crimp down and seal the line like I should have.)
My question now is, would it be a good idea to put a check valve somewhere in the fuel system? I have the high pressure 255 which I've heard doesn't contain a built-in check valve. Not sure how much of an effect that would have.
Edited by bthotrod, 02 August 2019 - 10:56 PM.
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#18
Posted 05 August 2019 - 11:16 AM
Pulled the pickup tubes out and since cleaning it my fuel tank has rusted pretty badly.. probably didn't dry it out well enough after cleaning it.
Seems as though the pump is pulling out all the fuel from the inner baffle where the pickup tube is at faster than it refills. Any easy way of cleaning out the lines that feed that inner baffle area?
- Rear 8s with 225/50 and 245/50 tires
- Ford 302 with XE262H-10 Cam, ported heads, performer RPM intake
#19
Posted 05 August 2019 - 12:10 PM
Edited by croquest87, 05 August 2019 - 12:11 PM.
#20
Posted 05 August 2019 - 10:57 PM
For safety issues you should use a pump relay wire from the control relay in the event you crash and the engine is off your wired in relay doesn't continue to pump fuel and kill you in a fire. (The control relay shuts down without the ignition signal)
That test wire for the pump isn't switched you shouldn't use it for any relay
That pump shoulnd't drain that sump
OEM pump had a check valve screwed on the end of it but it also served as a pre regulator
If the pump is good and the lines aren't mashed and you aren't out of gas then the regulator is junk there's nothing else involved here except your wiring and relay.
Sounds like your regulator is bad and no you can only rely on readings from a liquid filled gauge when its cold; its completely normal for it to change readings when its heated up because of how its made.
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