Blacked out my hood

[apate]

I only spent $12 in paint and primer You get what you pay for.

 

If I redo it I will use a gun not rattle cans

 

Before

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g350/apate1973/87%20conquest/hood_before.jpg

 

After

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g350/apate1973/87%20conquest/hood_after.jpg

[Project83]

Looks much better than the peeling paint. I've done my whole car 3 times with rattle cans satin works better for me than flat and if you hit it with some 0000 steel wool and wash it after it will smooth and blend it a little, at least thats what i do.

[kyle's89quest]

look on youtube for the Rustoleum paint job. They accually turn out pretty darn good.

[StallionProject86]

It does look better then what you had previously.. If you get tired of the lines and steel wool doesn't suffice try Montana paint it's kinda pricy per can but it's highly opaque and larger tips are available for smoother transition. Arrons brothers carries them..not positive if you have those where you are but you can also order it online.

[Crazy larry]

harbor freight on the cheap paint gun much better than cans of course you do also need a compressor... My 2 cents

[Burton]

Yep, deffinately a gun is the way to go, but you can usually make the finish a little better on a rattle can job if you do the last couple coats very light and dust it on from farther away... It will help hide the striping.

[apate]

Hey guys thanks for the feedback

I was going to try wet sanding with 1000 grit but I'll try the steel wool first

 

I actually have two spray guns and the compressor I was just being cheap

 

I was thinking about blacking out my mirrors and the rear spoiler any thoughts?

[slowquest]

sig pic......

[Burton]

 

I actually have two spray guns and the compressor I was just being cheap

 

 

You may be pleasantly suprised... You can usually find a decent paint to run thru a gun for not much more than buying a bunch of rattle cans. Plus, you won't kill your finger pushing that little button on the paint can, and the paint process will go quicker and look better. I've pretty much found that even if good paint for a gun is more expensive than rattle cans, the ease of spraying it and the time saved is way worth the small amount of extra cash.

[apate]

sig pic......

 

Thanks for the picture

 

I like the black in the side vent

[apate]

You may be pleasantly suprised... You can usually find a decent paint to run thru a gun for not much more than buying a bunch of rattle cans. Plus, you won't kill your finger pushing that little button on the paint can, and the paint process will go quicker and look better. I've pretty much found that even if good paint for a gun is more expensive than rattle cans, the ease of spraying it and the time saved is way worth the small amount of extra cash.

 

When I first started I said to my self that hood is not that big two can max

Six cans later and one sore finger(Still sore three days later)

Lesson learned the hard way

[BOOSTED88tsi]

plasti dip over that paint, it'll look good and its tough!

[apate]

plasti dip over that paint, it'll look good and its tough!

How many cans?

[ZaneGrey04]

They have handles for rattle cans you can pick up for cheap and they work great. I've used them a for bigger paint jobs using a can. They make the can easier to control and save your finger.

[BOOSTED88tsi]

you could do that area with two cans easy. I did the rear swing arm on my bike with it. Works great.

[Skullzaflare]

When I first started I said to my self that hood is not that big two can max

Six cans later and one sore finger(Still sore three days later)

Lesson learned the hard way

what brand did you use? dont say the walmart or dollar store cheap ones (if so, they fade pretty quick)

[apate]

what brand did you use? dont say the walmart or dollar store cheap ones (if so, they fade pretty quick)

OK I will not say I used dollar store but I only paid 97 cent on rollback

[Burton]

That may be half the problem there.... Cheap rattle can paint rarely lays out as nice as the more expensive stuff. An the little trigger things for rattle cans do work pretty good to avoid killing your fingers, but IMO is still kind of a ghetto way to do it, especially if you got a compressor, gun, and the paint won't be much more than rattle cans.

 

 

If you do the plastidip stuff, beware if you're doing it on a part that you plan to have stripped and painted properly down the road. Anything you put on it now would have to be stripped back off, and if you're paying body shop labor rates, then you'll pay quite a bit more to get the plastidip stuff off than bomb can or regular automotive paint. Stripping that plastidip is like stripping undercoating.. it sucks and takes quite a bit of time, and in a body shop, time is money.... usually $40-50 per hour. You might have to spend as much as $100 more just to strip off plastidip.

[Skullzaflare]

OK I will not say I used dollar store but I only paid 97 cent on rollback

it will turn gray within a month or two

That may be half the problem there.... Cheap rattle can paint rarely lays out as nice as the more expensive stuff. An the little trigger things for rattle cans do work pretty good to avoid killing your fingers, but IMO is still kind of a ghetto way to do it, especially if you got a compressor, gun, and the paint won't be much more than rattle cans.

 

 

If you do the plastidip stuff, beware if you're doing it on a part that you plan to have stripped and painted properly down the road. Anything you put on it now would have to be stripped back off, and if you're paying body shop labor rates, then you'll pay quite a bit more to get the plastidip stuff off than bomb can or regular automotive paint. Stripping that plastidip is like stripping undercoating.. it sucks and takes quite a bit of time, and in a body shop, time is money.... usually $40-50 per hour. You might have to spend as much as $100 more just to strip off plastidip.

thought that stuff was suppose to be pretty easy to remove?

[techboy]

I always like when people black out the hoods and they include the pop-ups and the front piece. I think it makes the cars look tough ... on the contrary, I think they look kinda goofy when it's "just" the hood.

 

I'm contemplating having my car painted that way when I have it done professionally.

[BC_99]

heres my 83 hood in cheapo black primer, its already chalked up and turned gray and hasnt even seen the sun yet.

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/20120815_193039.jpg

 

BC_99

[TSI_SVT]

I plan to experiment some with Plasti-Dip. Stay tuned.

[Burton]

 

 

thought that stuff was suppose to be pretty easy to remove?

 

 

I'm not sure how easy it comes off. If it comes off easily, then it's not a very good protective coating- moisture-wise. If it's not easy to remove, then it will be costly to have it prepped for real paint.

[patra_is_here]

for years I loved rattle cans. my rattle can technique is damned flawless and goes on so even. no lines, no peel, no streaks or runs.

this is from the last time I did a full rattle can job on it. satin olive.

http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1380/5115218360_0c49a898d6.jpg

 

 

 

 

and let me tell you what.

 

rattle can fades fast. it oxidizes. it gets chalky. it chips. and it does nothing to keep moisture out.

 

and worse, is now that i'm prepping the car for a REAL paint job, and spending hours and hours stripping off all those layers of rattle can.

 

 

yes, your black looks better than peeling red, but be wary about putting more and more layers on there, especially if you goal is to one day make it look nice. getting my hood stripped down to bare metal and given a coat of epoxy sealer took a full 8 hours using a real paint shop with air sanders and stuff. stripping is time consuming!!!

 

be warned!!

[BC_99]

I can imagine that would take some serious time. Is aircraft stripper not an option? That stuff should take off a few coats of rattle can paint with each application, its messy but it works if thats an option for you.

 

BC_99