Jump to content



83-84 cluster volt gauge


  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 prototype78

prototype78

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 988 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:miami 305
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 15 December 2014 - 10:21 AM

Hello, im always see the volt gauge on this cluster to b in the middle of gauge when they are off or disconnected...
my question is...what does it mark when its on.. and does it stay in the middle when u turn it off?!





#2 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,399 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 16 December 2014 - 04:40 AM

It's an amp gauge not a volt gauge.  It's supposed to be in the middle when off.  It will be between the middle and the + side when charging the battery or running heavy loads.  If it ever goes to the - side when the engine is running and stays there you know the alternator isn't working and the battery is discharging.
My 87
Posted Image

#3 prototype78

prototype78

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 988 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:miami 305
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 16 December 2014 - 09:33 AM

Ucw thanks for the reply...now that makes more sense.


#4 prototype78

prototype78

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 988 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:miami 305
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 16 December 2014 - 07:14 PM

Sorry I have another question, how I make it work on my 87 ?!...I see on the manual - goes from ignition coil and + from fuse 1...


#5 markhansenconquest

markhansenconquest

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 3,180 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:temecula,ca
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 16 December 2014 - 10:07 PM

u cant.. u need a 87 -  89....86 is wired different........

#6 83stariontravis

83stariontravis

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 427 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Oregon
  • Model:Starion

Posted 17 December 2014 - 06:09 PM

So you're working on putting it in your 87.  I assume it's a digi cluster.  Hit me up if you wanna know how to get it to display over 85mph.
Posted Image
Black 83 Starion Daily Driver, LSD, TDO5H
Red 83 Starion LSD 5 lug swap, 7s and 8s, motor out

#7 prototype78

prototype78

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 988 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:miami 305
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 17 December 2014 - 06:47 PM

I have semi digital and thats the only gauge its not working and I want to make it work

#8 ucw458

ucw458

    This will mean the extinction of all life forms on this planet.

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,399 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Colorado
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 17 December 2014 - 07:26 PM

Just wire it up the way the FSM says it's wired in the older cars and it will work.
My 87
Posted Image

#9 prototype78

prototype78

    Established Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 988 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:miami 305
  • Model:Conquest

Posted 17 December 2014 - 09:50 PM

K ill try and tell the result tomorrow with an xtra cluster I have

#10 ZacMan

ZacMan

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 489 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Christchurch, New Zealand
  • Interests:Hardware, Software, Starions, Not alot else :).
  • Model:Starion

Posted 27 December 2014 - 10:57 PM

It would be tricky to get an amp gauge working in a car that wasn't originally fitted with one. StarQuests that came with the amp gauge have a really long main power wire within the fusible link box. Most of this wire is coiled up inside the bottom of the box, beneath the relays. The Amp gauge is connected to either end of this (via a 5A fuse), and acts as a shunt around the main power wire. The gauge only takes a small fraction of the charging (or discharging) current, as most of is passes through the big coiled wire. They typically no longer work, due to corroded connections at the fuse (next to the high beam indicator fuse) or the screw connections to the flexible circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster itself.

The FSM will show how the amp gauges are connected, but not the fact that there is a big length of coiled wire involved. It's a s***, wasteful system, is prone to failure, and should be removed.

Doing the reverse however, getting a voltage gauge working in place of an amp gauge, shouldn't be too hard. A voltage gauge will be more reliable, and tell you almost the same amount of information. I'd go that route.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users