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86 secondary air box / egr removal help


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#1 Matt888

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Posted 16 June 2018 - 04:28 PM

Cleaning up the engine bay and attempting to simplify the lines.  What exactly do I need to do with the vacuum lines that have blue and yellow dashes on them?  2 lines go to a sensor near the thermostat, another goes to a vacuum diaphram of some sort, and several go to a pair of black solenoids with red and white wires coming into them?  I already removed the black box and metal tube that wrapped around the back of the cylinder head near fire wall and exited near exhaust.  

A few pics of what I was attempting to describe above:

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#2 Matt888

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Posted 16 June 2018 - 04:47 PM

The red cap used to go up to the black box mounted on the valve cover previously.  I have to admit the car is running very poorly after 15-20min of warmup.  I did replace the O2 sensor, so not sure where I may have messed up.  Definitely concerned about that sensor that has 2 vacuum lines going to it...  probably not a coincidence that after the car is warmed up completely that I’m having stumbling, hesitation.

#3 croquest87

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Posted 16 June 2018 - 05:45 PM

That's thermo valve sensor and simply opens when car is warmed up so that gases that go from your tank to the charcoal canister through the tubing can enter into the motor and get burned up 80s epa crap lol  l removed all mine to the tank and use one way check valve in the filler neck area.

Edited by croquest87, 16 June 2018 - 05:48 PM.


#4 Matt888

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Posted 16 June 2018 - 07:33 PM

Ok, so the vacuum lines from that setup do go back to the throttle body row of three nipples.  Actually they go to the nipple below the far right nipple port.

As far as I can tell, I only need to cap off that throttle body neck nipple vacuum port and remove some of the vacuum “T’s” that go to the various components described above.  When I do locate the vacuum line (I’ll look in daylight) coming from the tank to this system, is it ok to cap it off also?

Thanks!

#5 croquest87

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Posted 16 June 2018 - 08:39 PM

Alot of people just unplug hoses that run to charcoal canister and complaint was that they can smell gas fumes. I had a small hose routed away from engine bay outside the fender area for years no issues.Later on removed that charcoal filter all the way to the tank w one way check valve so that the tank can bread in air but no fumes/spill can come out. You need to bread air in for sure like any tank w fumes.l wouldn't just cap it.

Edited by croquest87, 16 June 2018 - 08:42 PM.


#6 importwarrior

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Posted 17 June 2018 - 09:44 AM

FAQ

Vacuum Line Removal

Page 3 last post.

http://www.starquest...pic=28042&st=40

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

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#7 Matt888

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Posted 17 June 2018 - 11:34 AM

Thanks guys.  I pretty much just put the lines back together stock for now due to recent drive ability issues.  The car had a slight stumble, hesitation before I even messed with it and want to eliminate variables.  I had put a new O2 sensor in and didn’t help, so put oroginal back in.  I just put a fuel pressure gauge on the top hat and watched it stay steady as can be around 37psi with a crap idle, stumbling drive down the street.  Not a fuel delivery issue... at least not a pump, filter, etc. catastrophic issue.  I’ve had 2 different fuel injector sets in, so ruling that out also for now.

Turning my attention to the CTS and TPS in the short term.  Going check the TPS now, but how do I properly test the 2-prong CTS?  Measure ohms between the sensor housing and one of the leads?  The Service Manual mentions about 300ohms when warmed up, but is that measured between the leads on the sensor or one lead to the sensor housing?

#8 Matt888

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Posted 17 June 2018 - 02:24 PM

All, I’ve moved my troubleshooting thread to my Starquest Showroom “new to me 86 Starion.”  Appreciate it if you Starquest moguls could jump in there and help sort out my drive ability issues for this stock Starion.  I started a list of what I have checked already.  Link below- Thanks!

http://www.starquest...howtopic=155600

Edited by Matt888, 17 June 2018 - 02:33 PM.





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