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How To Install MR2 Inserts in your Starion


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#21 patra_is_here

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Posted 21 May 2010 - 01:01 AM

ohhh roll center adjusters!!! i didnt know those were in production~!





#22 Komeuppance

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Posted 03 June 2010 - 04:27 AM

Not sure if MK1 is still making them...

-Robert

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#23 19cturbo

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 08:18 PM

what if i have mk1 rear struts? also how did you decide where to weld the pirches?
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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#24 Komeuppance

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 08:45 PM

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This is how I decided where to put the perches.  I have the DOM tubing centered over the buttweld.

MK1 rear struts, you'll need to have some way to have a threaded top portion.  Or you can straight up weld a top on with the strut insert inside if you're gangster.

-Robert

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#25 19cturbo

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 07:16 AM

View PostKomeuppance, on 02 November 2010 - 08:45 PM, said:



This is how I decided where to put the perches.  I have the DOM tubing centered over the buttweld.


-Robert

ok, well how did you decide where to cut the strut in the first place? i suppose there would be advantages and disadvantages of putting the pircehs too high or low
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View PostConvette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#26 dmyers151

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Posted 03 November 2010 - 02:29 PM

Mike, locate the perch so that your threaded sleeve is completely filled by the strut tube and doesn't hang over with empty space at the top or have a bunch of strut tube sticking out.

#27 Prozaq

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 09:04 PM

KYB was not willing to help me out after contacting them multiple times in regards to purchasing the gland nuts for the conversion ("we don't sell to the public" was repeated every call). I received an old part # from their tech support to boot. They did grudgingly recommend going to Pep Boys or Carquest to order the parts. Pep Boys was unable to locate the part in their system (may have been due to the old part #), and gave me some random gland nut (qty: 1 lol) they had laying around as a consolation prize. I contacted Carquest and 15 minutes later they came back with the new part # that had superseded the KYB # I was told originally. On order, should be here by the end of the week...so...go Carquest, I'll make sure I check in with you guys for hard to find stuff first next time lol.

Cliff notes:
KYB gland nut part number: 575-T248 (or just google kyb t248 for results)
Cost: ~$6 to $10 per

I hope this helps. Screw you KYB, I will have my Konis.

Edited by Prozaq, 29 August 2011 - 09:04 PM.

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#28 Komeuppance

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 09:19 PM

Thanks for the info Prozaq.  Maybe their email support is a different department than call center??

-Robert

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#29 RF600

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 09:45 PM

KYB sent me 2 free. I had to buy 2 more.
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#30 D_Venable

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Posted 29 August 2011 - 10:17 PM

Prozaq, thanks for the info on where to get them. I had similar responses through emails with KYB about buying just gland nuts.
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85 Conquest aka DTHSTAR (215whp/251tq on a 12a at 15psi) RIP (for now)
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88 TSI SHP Durban Maroon 17C TD05H, MAFT, 9's all around, 13" brakes, MR2's with Anti-M's
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#31 Prozaq

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 02:24 AM

View PostKomeuppance, on 29 August 2011 - 09:19 PM, said:

Thanks for the info Prozaq.  Maybe their email support is a different department than call center??

-Robert

No problem guys, I'm glad to help out. I'm guessing there are a few good ppl working in KYB that will sell through a "cash" or "will call" account for special order stuff like that, but it sounds like a lot of ppl there are in the hardline "can't sell to the public" mindset, and aren't willing to help out.
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#32 Komeuppance

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Posted 30 August 2011 - 02:31 AM

I thought I posted that gland nut part number here too, but I guess it was on Austarion.com haha.  My invoice only had "t248" on it.

-Robert

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#33 Prozaq

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:24 PM

Getting ready to do an install with Koni sport inserts and Mookeeh rear housings. I'll try to compile the notes as neatly as possible as I come across issues...

- The Koni shock bodies are identical in height (from bottom protrusion to gland nut mounting surface) as the Excel's in Komeuppance's walkthrough [14 1/4"]
- Mookeeh rear housings use the MR2 gland nut thread pitch (that'll save someone $16 lol)

Also, I'm not quite sure what MR2 insert they designed this around (besides the one they include in their shock/housing kit), but the housing is 1/2" too short. I verified the welds at the base of the insert are coming into contact with the housing before the protrusion hits the very bottom of the housing (but it's close). I have a couple options at this point, I'll figure it out tomorrow lol.
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#34 D_Venable

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:32 PM

some of us have used rear MR2 inserts (like I have) and others have used MR2 fronts (I think SFBMX88 used fronts)
2011 Silverado
85 Conquest aka DTHSTAR (215whp/251tq on a 12a at 15psi) RIP (for now)
88 TSI parts car
88 TSI SHP Durban Maroon 17C TD05H, MAFT, 9's all around, 13" brakes, MR2's with Anti-M's
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#35 Prozaq

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:39 PM

View PostD_Venable, on 03 September 2011 - 10:32 PM, said:

some of us have used rear MR2 inserts (like I have) and others have used MR2 fronts (I think SFBMX88 used fronts)

This is a pretty good point...I wish I still had my suspension install pix from my 93 MR2 so I could tell the height difference, but I did see someone mention the fronts are a touch shorter. I did want to go with a swapped set up (MR2 rear in front of SQ, vice versa) to adjust for the switch in weight bias between the two cars, but I wasn't sure if any of the aftermarket valving was different between the front and the rear shocks. I haven't really seen anyone else using Konis, and this will be my first set...so I figured I'd post what I find as I go along. What inserts have you used and which did you like?
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#36 Komeuppance

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Posted 03 September 2011 - 11:16 PM

Patra_was_here might be using Konis.

I'm using Tokico Illuminas, all rears.  As far as weight balance, I did "the math" vs an MR2...

MR2's (SW20 turbo) weight from 2750, to 3050, with a weight distribution of:
Front axle: 1260 lbs (43%)
Rear axle: 1660 lbs (57%)

Quote

I just weighed my MR2 on the way back from buying it. I went to a truck stop that has a CAT scale, which has a precision of 20 pounds and they guarantee the accuracy (see the guarantee at the top of the weight slip photo).

Results (1995 MR2 turbo M/T, STOCK w/ t-bar, leather, and 1/3 tank of gas, no driver):

Front axle: 1260 lbs (43%)
Rear axle: 1660 lbs (57%)
Total weight: 2920 lbs
http://www.mr2.com/f...html#post188247

I don't remember exactly, but the SQ weight distribution is better at 53:47 I think.  That's about 1600 front, and 1400 rear.  So we are very close to what an MR2 is pushing.

-Robert

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#37 Prozaq

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 10:42 PM

That's good to see those numbers posted up; I'm surprised to see the '95 MR2 coming in sub-3k lbs...the '93-'95 models were the chunkiest by a fair bit. Still lots of fun though.

Well, adding onto my previous post, there really wasn't too much to modify. Here's the list off the top of my head (YMMV, "measure twice, cut once"):

-Stock front housings needed ~2 5/8" spacing to fit MR2 Koni rear inserts.
-Rear Mookeeh housings need 1/2" extension to enclose MR2 Koni rear inserts (if the front MR2 shocks are 1/2" shorter like it sounds, that's the way to go)
-Extension should be made above the spring perch and below the gland nut threading if you want to retain the same height
-If you're using a stock spring style (non-coilover), the upper spring seat needs to be reamed out to allow the shock rod to slide through...it's D-shaped so just rounding it out does the trick.
-Using a stock replacement mount on the rears (non-pillowball) may require drilling out the shock rod opening for clearance.

I'm really almost appalled at how easy the rear struts come out lol. Falling in love with the Konis, too. :wub:
87 TSI 90k miles SOLD
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#38 sleeper tsi

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 12:50 PM

I'm gunna run mr2 rears all the way around. Is this a good or bad idea?

#39 D_Venable

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 12:59 AM

View Postsleeper tsi, on 02 January 2012 - 12:50 PM, said:

I'm gunna run mr2 rears all the way around. Is this a good or bad idea?


that's perfectly fine, I did this on my flatty, and will have it on my fatty soon too

but with the mookeeh (MK1) rear housings, sounds like MR2 fronts are the better way to go

Edited by D_Venable, 04 January 2012 - 01:01 AM.

2011 Silverado
85 Conquest aka DTHSTAR (215whp/251tq on a 12a at 15psi) RIP (for now)
88 TSI parts car
88 TSI SHP Durban Maroon 17C TD05H, MAFT, 9's all around, 13" brakes, MR2's with Anti-M's
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#40 SFBMX88

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Posted 07 February 2012 - 02:29 PM

View Postsleeper tsi, on 02 January 2012 - 12:50 PM, said:

I'm gunna run mr2 rears all the way around. Is this a good or bad idea?

I used MR2/Celica alltrac FRONTS at all 4 corners on mine.  The Alltrac is roughly the same weight as the Starion, so fronts should work well.  Maybe try fronts and rears on your setup?




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