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$120 Aluminum Radiator Upgrade


StarQuestMike
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I put in my new Aluminum Radiator finally yesterday. This is the one I bought:

Aluminum Radiator search ebay for "s13 radiator"

With these fans:

Fans search ebay for "12 inch cooling fan"

 

Works great! Noticed a big difference with it already.

 

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/Radiator2.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/Radiator3.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/Radiator4.jpg

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/Radiator.jpg

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http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll82/MikeTrottermb/IMG00137-20101106-1924.jpg

 

We used a 90 from the top hose, a piece of pipe from an auto parts store, and then the original bottom hose cut to fit. You could always weld on an angled pipe if you can weld aluminum but this was really easy to do, and it's not leaking so works for me.

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EDIT: Here's some info on a better lower hose:

As I had issues finding a perfect lower hose, all my lower radiator hoses would rub the p/s pump

I wanted to say I found the perfect fit lower hose to use the ebay sr20 aluminum radiator

Its standard stock at your local advanceautoparts, part number "c71280" cost $12.99

Bends around ps pump and back over

No mods to radiator or water pump. Trimmed 1/4" off top of hose from where they run the plastic hanger

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a381/skullzaflare/IMG_20110223_170329.jpg

 

The Curved Radiator Hose is suitable for the following vehicles:

   * 1994 Mazda B4000 (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X - OHV )
   * 1994 Mazda B4000 (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X - OHV )
   * 1994 Mazda Navajo DX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
   * 1994 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
   * 1993 Mazda Navajo DX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
   * 1993 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
   * 1992 Mazda Navajo DX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
   * 1992 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
   * 1991 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X - OHV )

LOL, in that pic it's on the top.

 

Anyway, take your old top radiator hose, cut the 90 degree section out of it. Get a 1 1/2" O.D. exhaust pipe at the parts store as a coupler. Attach the 90 degree section to the bottom outlet of the radiator, then insert the exhaust pipe, then use your original bottom radiator hose to complete the connection.

 

It would have worked better if we trimmed the exhaust pipe, but we weren't at my shop. You will have to trim the orignal lower hose a bit. For the new upper hose, a 12" radiator flex hose is perfect.

 

The radiator is the two row.

 

-Robert

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It's not secured to the car. It's just "floating". It's a very close fit on the frame rails, and is mainly stayed in place by the hoses.

 

Primary thermosensor removed from original rad, placed in EGR thermoswitch location. And then wired to trigger both fan relays.

 

-Robert

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It's not secured to the car. It's just "floating". It's a very close fit on the frame rails, and is mainly stayed in place by the hoses.

 

Primary thermosensor removed from original rad, placed in EGR thermoswitch location. And then wired to trigger both fan relays.

 

-Robert

 

We as a comunity have to stop promoting this, mine is exactly like you said but it runs all the time and will never turn off. If it is left like this for long I am sure the fans will burn out, using the secondary sensor may be a better option but the best way is to put the sensor on the cold side of the radiator before it enters the water pump.

 

my 2.6 cents anyway

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Woops, I thought he was asking how the radiator was mounted.

 

We as a comunity have to stop promoting this, mine is exactly like you said but it runs all the time and will never turn off. If it is left like this for long I am sure the fans will burn out, using the secondary sensor may be a better option but the best way is to put the sensor on the cold side of the radiator before it enters the water pump.

 

my 2.6 cents anyway

 

Sounds like you need a new thermosensor, have you done tested it in hot water??

 

His fans turn off and on just fine. I wouldn't have approved it if they stayed on all the time, that's for sure.

 

-Robert

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Woops, I thought he was asking how the radiator was mounted.

 

 

 

Sounds like you need a new thermosensor, have you done tested it in hot water??

 

His fans turn off and on just fine. I wouldn't have approved it if they stayed on all the time, that's for sure.

 

-Robert

 

 

I don't see how that would be possible unless he was using a thermostat that closes at a temperature lower then 175* because that is were the thermo sensor shuts off. I run a 180* thermostat and it keeps the water temperature right at 180*, it never goes below that behind the thermostat (aka in the block/intake manifold)

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these work awesome! you can pick one up at your local parts store too! simple to use..

 

 

*edit*

 

guess the link would help..

lol

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HOT-ROD-ELECTRIC-FAN-SWITCH-RELAY-THERMOSTAT-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem230ba3e027QQitemZ150519144487QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Edited by 19cturbo
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Thermostats aren't an instant open/close valve. They begin to open near the specified temperature (180F in this case) and then should be fully open at the specified temperature. This still allows coolant to pass to the radiator under 180F.

 

The primary thermosensor turns on at 180-190, and turns off at 172-189 according to the factory manual. Add in some extra resistance for older thermosensors, and they will operate at a slightly higher range.

 

-Robert

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It's not secured to the car. It's just "floating". It's a very close fit on the frame rails, and is mainly stayed in place by the hoses.

 

Primary thermosensor removed from original rad, placed in EGR thermoswitch location. And then wired to trigger both fan relays.

 

-Robert

i just did the same swap and i installed the secondary switch in the drain hole of the radiator just drill and tap it to M16-1.5 works great. thanks StarQuestMike

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  • 2 weeks later...

i think i got the wrong radiator. i paid 156 for mine.

CX racing.

 

ok after rereading this i see yours is the 2 row. the one i

got is a 3 row.

 

Great write up.

 

Thanks.

 

3 row is even better. As long as it's for an s13 w/ sr20, it should work.

 

-Robert

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