JDOliver

Thanks. The drivers fender has been replaced. The drivers side subframe structure has been pushed in, then pulled back out. Someone put some JB weld to try and fix/conceal a break in the top seam where the fender attaches. The front horn is a little twisted. The area that was where the battery sits was crushed and pulled back out. It just looks like it took a hard hit in the front drivers side corner once upon a time and was fixed poorly. The seam filler on that side has been cracked and is falling out where the subframe and the inner fender meet. There is a large spot that rusted out in the firewall side of the wheel well. I wasn't thinking about it when I pulled it out of the woods but the drivers side tire was worn like the tire was turned in hard but all the others where fine. I have it stripped down to the shell and suspension now. I'll have a good look at it in the light now I know where to measure from.

Could someone please post a measurement between the top of the struts and maybe one or two of the mounting bolts in the car please. I have a 87 that previous repaired damage that appears to go all the way back to to firewall judging by the seams. Thanks.

Ha, ha. Same thing here. Congratulations.

Congrats on the sale. Let me know if the check doesn't clear.

If he still has it will still be a regular part of this forum. I don't add anything because I don't have anything to at this point. It would save me the year I have left on building an autocross/track car, I can skip buying a trailer since its titled and has a back seat for the kids around town.

I need this badly. Still have it.?

It will sell for that in this area. You just need to broaden your advertising to other forums and websites.

What's the engine bay look like ? Everything there ?

I noticed in the thread you are aiming for time trials. Better check over the event rules real careful. Sometimes there is a bit of safety equipment involved, and a special license. Sounds like big fun.

Hey smitty, check here too. This spot suprised me. http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z269/johndoliver/Conquest/d53de80c.jpg http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z269/johndoliver/Conquest/e2b697b7.jpg

That's pretty rough. I've got one spot where moisture got behind the spray liner in the drivers wheel well and a few inches under the drivers side seat. You may want to poke around with a screwdriver in the wheel well.

I'm working on the same swap. Did you use the D50 engine brackets and motor mount? Which year W trans did you use and where did the shifter line up. Thanks.

Update on this ? I'm looking for someone that's a little further along with this swap to discuss motor mounts vs. shifter position with.

There were a few things that came up in the process. Be sure to look at the PDF linked, it helped tremendously. I only pulled the metal support that runs over the steering support and all the way across the dash on both sides. Any metal lower than that I unbolted and it stayed. You have to drop the steering support to get to two bolts hidden under a flap directly over the steering column. That one was what had me stumped, mostly because I thought the metal support stayed in. I unbolted the lower cross supports everywhere, but didn't see the plastic ventilation directly behind them. They tried to stop the dash from coming out. There was a hose to the drivers side window defroster that hung it from sliding out. One big connector unplugs a lot of stuff, its at the top towards the center. There may have been a few others. It does come directly out and up some, there are two points that the dash rides on. If you pull it off by yourself, be sure to be in the middle during the last tug, it was not light. It did take a bit of pulled to get if away from the defroster vents at first.

Thanks I'm going to work on it today.