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exhaust manifold studs


importwarrior
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it seems that after all my effort to save the head threads has come to an end.

to sum up I tapped the holes the studs came loose. Then I heli coiled them and

the studs came loose. taking the manifold off messed up some of the heli coils.

I removed them and now have trouble trying to replace the heli coils.

the only thing left is to possibly try and install 10mm studs or get a new head.

 

not sure what to do.

 

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Have you considered using time-serts instead of helicoils? Helicoils are just a piece of wire wound into a thread insert. They can easily unwind when removing the bolt or stud threaded into them, especially after repeated heat cycles. Timeserts are machined thread inserts very similar to helicoils but they are a machined piece and are available in various materials such as steel, carbon steel, and stainless steel, ect... They are a bit more expensive than helicoils but are a better product and can be used with locktite to secure your studs for the long haul. Hope that may help you not have to buy a new head. Cheers,

 

BC_99

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Thanks for the info. i have read up on time-serts. they seem to be good.

but i have seen a few disasters with them. maybe installed improperly.

 

UCW - i had the manifold surfaced each time before i put it back on.

i always surface when and if i can. the studs backed out from the time

i bought the car i have been trying to keep them tight. this wil be the last

chance i have to fix it properly.

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yes, zero weight on the turbo from the down pipe.

I use a V band flange on them and when there is no

clamp on, the 2 are still perfectly aligned.

I have a flex pipe as well in the down pipe.

 

the only thing is I run the Funk Lock motor mount.

there was more vibration compared to the stock mounts.

 

other than that. that was the only change I made.

Edited by importwarrior
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  • 2 weeks later...

well a follow up to this pain in the butt problem.

 

i went and got the BIG Cert Time sert kit part number 5812.

this is for threads that had all ready been heli-coied.

the thread pitch is 8x1.25 out side dia is about 12mm and the very tip that sits flush is 14mm.

 

https://www.belmetri...217_221_880_266

 

engineering info

http://www.timesert....ringdataBS.html

 

 

then i went out and got some high temp thread lock good to 2100 degrees

 

RESBOND 907-TS

 

http://store.034moto...urbo-rated.html

 

Resbond main website

http://www.cotronics...readlockers.htm

 

PDF info on it

http://www.cotronics...r/pdf/907ts.pdf

 

if you do decide to get this resbond make sure NOT to get the BLUE stuff.

the blue is good to 500 degrees

 

it should be red in color.

 

 

 

hope this will resolve my problems of the studs backing out.

I am letting the thread locker cure over night.

 

i still have 1 broke stud that is counter sunk to get out. that is tomorrows task.

 

 

just wanted to give a follow up as to where i am at with this.

 

 

 

 

http://store.034motorsport.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/250x250/8e3c886ca7be982fe01f40a38284b5ac/T/H/THREADLOCKER2100F.JPG

Edited by importwarrior
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shot peen threads on studs and run them in with 2 jam nuts on bolt to drive them in....( interference fit...sieze the studs in head ) or buy washers with locking tabs...that's what the racers do..........even if u get a new head it will still happen...all the vibration will loosen them up...did u read the post on how I beef my head bolts up ..?? about 3 months back..
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