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InvolvedRotary

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About InvolvedRotary

  • Birthday 03/15/1985

Profile Information

  • Interests
    cars
  • Location
    Dandridge, TN
  • Gender
    Male

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  • Website URL
    http://
  • AIM
    GundamPhysaliso2

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    37725
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Rio/Mexican Red
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Being Modded

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  1. Took my car out today to make a short trip (80 miles round), rained like hell for the first half of the journey and had no problems at all. Once it stopped raining and things began to dry out she began to fall on her face when off boost. On boost (stock) she runs fine, no hesitations, pulls right up through the rev range without fail. But off boost there are points where she has no power, as if the injectors aren't firing or there's no spark (which this makes no sense as it runs fine under heavy load). Engine has 10k miles on it, fuel system has 10k on a bosche pump, prof. Q injectors have 10k on them, in tank filter has 10k on it, under hood filter has maybe 3k on it as well as the braided lines and aeromotive FPR (w/mech fpr gauge). I have an electric fuel pressure gauge in cabin to monitor pressure changes, idle she is set @40~42 psi, and it climbs in a 1:1 ratio following boost pressure (as proved with an aftermarket boost gauge beside the FP gauge). Fuel pressure is spot on during these moments of 'no-go', but if I give her more throttle input (opening the butterfly) she comes back to life and zips along merrily. This is in all gears, though more pronounced when trying to 'cruise' along between 55~70 above that and its fine. Ecu is an 88/89 unit within the 87 case, been running premium fuel only, and symptoms were shown while tank was about 80% full to a bit under half a tank (tank was refilled and still shows symptoms). Fusible link box felt hot round the ecu and ign switch links (links in good condition, though red ecu link seems to have 'fused' to one of the blocks spades...), at the same time passenger headlight would not pop up nor down on its own, though unplugging the main fusible link box and plugging it back in returned it to normal. I did not have these symptoms prior to the deluge I drove through this morning and its something I'd like to get taken care of before I potentially sell her this upcoming week, so any help would be greatly appreciated guys.
  2. Actually those mufflers look very much stock or at the 'least' a pace setter Y-pipe and mufflers, though only way to know is to look under the car and check for tell tale welds, my project has all stock exhaust...Good to see the oem boot cover is intact too, those are usually misplaced on most verts these days and fetch a pretty penny, same with a set of good condition BBS's with centers, gotta love rims that weigh in at just a smidge over 10 pounds without tire. Jwrape- for the price he's askin its a good deal, a reskin of the seats, aftermarket headunit, and a fender respray and its set. My last running rx7 I owned for 5 years, she treated me good, and even thoroughly abusing the car (Adding an SAFC and tuning fuel OUT of the maps) I got 20~23 mpg with a severe lead foot (1st thru 3rd gear redlining at every interstate onramp, which in a nonturbo top of 3rd is 90ish depending on if you dip past the buzzer.) Only thing you would want her to keep an eye on is coolant temps and have the oil changed EVERY 3k miles, and maybe have the injectors sent out for cleaning/flow matching (Older rotaries tend to 'flood' out which is easily 'temp' fixed with a switch to kill the fuel pump when you shut the car down, or to pull the ecu underhood fuses and deflood it, though the switch is always nice). Honestly I dont know many 'verts' that will get better fuel eco, unless they are LS1 powered... Also to add~ The 86-88 rx7's are alot more 'mod' friendly in nonturbo form than the 89-91's due to having more 'mechanical' parts that the ecu doesnt care about. IE: the emissions can be junked and vac lines simplified to 1 16" long vac line for the FPR, another 12~18" long line that runs from the intake manifolds to the 'pressure' sensor, and you 'could' also remove the OMP system provided you then ran premix to make up for the lost lubrication. On a S5 car all of the emissions are tied into the VDI (variable dynamic intake) and would require some fun rigging to keep those working right along with the 5th and 6th aux. ports for the intake, and if the omp was removed then the ecu begins throwing the car into limp mode, the S4's dont even know what 'limp' means.
  3. Bump for a clean 7. Just some interesting factoids: In japan, ALL FC's were turbocharged (verts included). They never had a nonturbo model, just varying degree's of interior and suspension trim. A automatic car is more likely to die an early death than a 5speed. Rotaries <3 being redlined, there's no real harm in pushing past redline unless you are holding it forever, if the cooling system is up for it by all means. IIRC the 4 rotor 787B leman's car was rev limited to 9k rpm for reliability for the endurance race, car made great power, their were reports that after the race the motor was removed and 'uncorked' and allowed to rev to 12k rpms, resulting in an additional 3~400 hp. However, if a rotary is not redlined, which is the case in any of the slush boxes, the engine builds up carbon, which is normally burned off with a few good redlinings. This is a fact, there are documented cases of 3rd gen's being bought with <60k miles and supposedly 'babied its entire life and never abused' and the engines were so caked in carbon that they would 'pop' when finally redlined (loosening carbon in lare chunks which would stick seals or break them.) Verts are heavy. But handle every inch as well as a coupe, mostly so from being equipped with turbo equivalent brakes and suspension (IIRC the rear's are actually stiffer than a T2). The drivers seat looks fairly typical of most rx7's in general, a bit rougher than most, but considering it is a vert i'd be more interested to know if the headrest speakers work. As for the stereo not working in car, but working on the bench, that could be either a bad dash fuse, bad ground (usually an aftermarket headunit will be the tell tale sign of that if the new headunit works), a loose wire at the fuseblock, or possibly the wire is broken elsewhere for power/ground. Though the unbroken stereo surround is a big plus, most 86-88's have either missing or broken surrounds/vents, including the demisters...which your's still retains as well.... damned clean aside from the seat and fender overall. Though any underhood shots to see if anythings been rigged/upgraded?
  4. Have you tried either a turbo blanket and wrapping the downpipe? These alone will help keep the heat down underhood, that and using the stock heat shields. Personally I dont have the heat shielding anymore and have suffered a few crispy wires as you have, though buying 'lifetime' NGK wires means I just head to the parts store for a fresh set every year or so.
  5. The Rabbit1: I dont have a knock box because the P.O. wired in what I was told was a caravan ignitor module. Ive not had any real issues with it. REDi: I recommend if installing the FPR, to find a more suitable mounting for it than where the knock box goes. I had to 'reshape' the metal fuel return line so I could get my SS hose onto it without kinking...much cursing and scraped/bleeding knuckles were had.
  6. Can't go wrong with stuff from Brian. I still need to have a few fittings changed out (my fpr placement puts things out of whack) but i'm happy with how my FPR is run. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04021620.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04021620_1.jpg
  7. hah yeah, i gave 500 for my first rx7, 2 used motors (that i installed) later she lasted 5 years and was worth it. Id like to find a supra just to daily. Dont have to mod it, just something clean that I can take to work and such while the 7 gets wrenched on, especially considering my luck with my Conquest as of late..
  8. Sounds like yours suffered from 'sticking' seals. The atf trick is used to loosen up carbon, though using MMO or a good seafoaming would have helped it either regain compression or fully unstick the seals. Heh, only other toy I'd like to try out is a mkIII supra, but so far I prefer my 7s cockpit to almost everything else ive sat in.
  9. Should broaden the search area to include more southern states, though interiors are getting shabbier as years progress i've seen... Got tires mounted yesterday http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04151727_1.jpg Let them in the van til today, where they got mounted http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04161137.jpg and here were back on the ground http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04161147_2.jpg Its definitely going to need all the fender lips rolled, and the rear need a good pull, but so far so good with the stock suspension and not really having the body settle like it needs to.
  10. Crazy- 2k for a decent FC is quite reasonable, as a turbo model in good shape (or at least with a fresh motor) will run between 3k and 7k. Plus, if you should tire of the rotary, a LS1 will easily fit between the fenders and firewall, and plenty of kits to V8 swap it otherwise. 87Blue- Can do, not like they are going anywhere lol.
  11. and 87Blue, id probably take 100 plus cost to ship, a boneyard charges about 25 a wheel for aluminum.
  12. honestly a fb makes a poor drift car, the suspension choices are few, the steering is worse than the sq's, and they lack power (even the later model gsl-se that was fuel injected was anemic.) if yuo want to drift, id recommend snagging either a 87-88 gxl fc like i did, as they have a factory clutch-type lsd and are good to learn the suspensions knack for gripping when it should be sliding (thanks in part to the rear hubs being able to adjust camber in a corner). once you get the car setup and feel confident a turbo swap is just as easy as im making it out to be, a driveline and engine harness being the biggest items to swap, as just turboing the na motor is asking for apex seal death.
  13. Fanta: How much are you willing to spend and how far are you willing to go? I know there will be A LOT of RX7's attending DGRR (deals gap rotary rally) here up at the dragon come end of april (all weekend long). Usually several cars for sale. Though have ou checked www.rx7club.com 's for sale forums? Usually several for sale in varying conditions. My buddy just sold his 'restored' 90 TII for 6k I think with a fresh motor, new paint (minus rock chips from driving), immaculate interior (jdm rear seats even) and some other things, was a very nice car (stock condition turbo's so it wasnt making 469hp lol). I would have gotten a TII if their was one close enough to me for the price i was wanting to pay, but its 'just' as easy to source the parts like I have as ALL the S4/S5 chassis's are the same, only the engine harness and a few sensors change between na and turbo, though S5's changed to a different dash harness so the engine harness changed as well, but the hard parts all bolt the same. 87Blue: oh? mmm incentive to sell rising. Id have to junk the tires (they are corded heavily in back and one tire has a chunk missing from the sidewall.
  14. Yeah, I was hoping to not have to drive out to timbucktoo to find one either (ive gone as far as MD for an rx7, and picked the Quest up from VA). No plans for a 20B. 20B's take more money to swap right than I have to spend in a year or two's time... I plan on a stock 13BT (S4 turbo engine), then once it either blows or I gather the money its getting rebuilt with an aggressive streetport. Then it will eventually (hopefully) see a GT35R (guy whom I buy most of my 'used' parts from builds engines and parts cars, his personal FC made 469rwhp@21psi with a gt35r, an old HKS fmic kit, and an apexi powerFC.) and drive it like it was meant to be. Heh, im junking the wheels. Theyve got some serious curb rash going on and the tires are shot.
  15. Since I've been working nonstop since january (7 days a week...no days off...), I was able to make two more happy day purchases as I vowed to NEVER put those wheels back on the car. Some days I <3 ebay: XXR 006- 17x8 +25 and 17x9 +20 (with a 7mm spacer up front and a 20 out back I think they'd look beastly on the SQ too) http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo03311606_1.jpg Test fitting to the 7 using a set of red anodized DropEngineering tuner lugnuts http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04011000_2-1.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04011004_1.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04011004_2.jpg Heres what that lowly 17x7 looks like in the back...kinda dinky really http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04011004.jpg With those ordered and properly tested to clear suspension (clear on all accounts), I realized I 'might' need to roll the fender lips at all corners, and possibly pull the rears (fine by me). But since I dislike the stretched look on cars, and the roads around here kinda suck, AND ive curbed a nice set of wheels before (on my first TII no less >.<) I decided on some real rubber. Stock tire sizes for the na's running 15" wheels are 205/60's...I opted for a set of Nitto NT555 235/45 R17s up front and 255/40 R17's out back to aid in my quest for grip. Oddly enough, these were ordered last, and showed up the night before my sway bars lol. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo04121517.jpg They go to be mounted this friday, then they get mounted to the car and set on the ground for more clearance checks to see what I 'need' to do to try and not run 'hella flush' or cambered wayyyy out. /sigh at one point my driveway consisted of these rotary's: First NA (flat black) sitting beside a blown waste of money (both traded for lol240) http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/Mobile%20Uploads/media1-2.jpg My very first TII... http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/88%20TII/667820-R1-00-1A.jpg Sold it shortly after a semi took out the left rear quarter... http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/88%20TII/DSC00278.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/88%20TII/DSC00280.jpg And some before and after shots of the original beast: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/6.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/3.jpg Before ^ After lots of work and some rattle can 4 years later(never did fix that left rear corner) v http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/DSCF2177.jpg And her last voyage up the Tail of the Dragon (love being an hour away) http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b287/RX-7-88/DSC00584.jpg
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