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emann420

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    St. Louis MO

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  1. Sorry I missed this topic. You can do one eight in the passenger footwell. Let me see if I can get some really bad camera phone pics up. EZE
  2. Sounds internal to me, press the eject button to see if it is stuck. I've seen similar things happen to people with children, something about coins and slots. Yes I said that.
  3. The plastic is used as a vapor barrier between the moisture accumulated along the window, that eventually drips into the door and is either evaporated away or is released through the drain holes at the bottom of the door skins, and the inner side of the door panel. "I think". As far as the sound damping goes, one layer on the outer side of the inner door skin, one layer on the inner side of the outer door skin and two more patch panels of damping on the inside of the outer door skin right behind the speaker worked for me. I managed to get all the rattles out of mine except for one light bulb inside the passenger side tail light. Up to 135dB http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/i336/themremann/1989%20Conquest%20Done%20by%20Me/?action=view&current=DoorDynamated2.jpg E
  4. According to the diagram it looks like a second positive starter output. Some vehicle's ECM/ECU may have required this output to start properly. The key tumbler assembly may have been a shared part between a different model of car. E
  5. Yep, all me. If you go with the tube you might try some diffused fiber optic cable inside the tube?
  6. Would the rear view mirror adhesive work?
  7. Just a few thoughts. I would try the water feature with two thin plexi panels spaced about 1/4 inch apart. The rear plexi panel should be colored and mirrored for 2x the bubbles. The front plexi can also be the 2 way mirror type for super extra bubbles. LED lit and bubbler from the bottom, making sure to hide all components lower than what is visible from the outside. Maybe even a florescent dye in the water and blacklight color LEDs. I love lighting. Here are some of mine, some of the albums are large but check out the Yukon gallery that has 6 lit up 12s and amp racks lit LED and strobe. The 650s and Camry albums also have lighting in them. Good Luck, Have Fun! Whoops http://picasaweb.google.com/emann420
  8. If you mount the subs next to each other you will get another 6 dB, just a thought. E
  9. Fuses are not Fusable Links. I'm sure they are rated totally different. The fuses should blow fast and the fusable link should limit current flow up until a failure occurs(right before the fire). I know I'm not helping and my intentions are not to be an @$$, just don't want you to be stranded. E
  10. I hope it's not to late but make sure you move your ground wire off of the speaker bracket and on to the body of the car with the paint scrapped off. Also a good idea to replace the factory battery ground under the hood. E
  11. If you get a non-motorized face double din it should drop right in. You might have to elongate the screw holes on the factory bracket or just make new holes. E
  12. Try the camera on your phone to look at the emitters, that's what I do with remote controls. E
  13. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=56373&view=&hl=harada&fromsearch=1
  14. The PAC SWI-X is the most universal and is not brand specific as long as the new radio has a remote. Down side is you have to mount the LED somewhere. E-Mann
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