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NudeLobster

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NudeLobster last won the day on March 14 2012

NudeLobster had the most liked content!

About NudeLobster

  • Birthday 03/08/1994

Profile Information

  • Interests
    working on cars, guns, anything mechanical.
  • Location
    Downers Grove, IL
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    60515
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Sarajevo White
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Hey guys! It's been a long time since I was last on here. I moved on from my conquest a few years ago and just uncovered a bunch of miscellaneous parts in my garage that I figure someone might make use of get it all out of my hands! Some of these things are kinda pricey to mail on their own compared to their value so I will definitely cut a deal on shipping if you combine items! First up, Fusible links. I have 2 red, 1 Brown, 1 green. BNIB. Asking $5 shipped each Sold! Next are BNIB AC Delco oil pressure Sensing units. I have 2. Asking $10 shipped each.Sold! Next is a BNIB Raybestos Tie rod adjusting sleeve. Asking $10 shipped. Next is BNIB KYB Rear Strut Top Hat mounts. Asking $25 shipped each or $40 shipped for both Sold! Next is a BNIB Autometer 4303 mechanical boost gauge. Asking $50 shipped. http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/2015-08-13%2014.17.14_zpsywr8qe7n.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/2015-08-13%2014.17.31_zpst1at4yr8.jpg Next is rear pipe to TB Water hose. BNIB OEM asking $7 shipped. http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/04fa5a25-f934-41f9-9db0-5b9fa1dc7fbe_zpsmaeef9df.jpg http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/2015-08-13%2014.31.54_zpsmv3btinc.jpg Next is OEM oil cooler gasket washers. Asking $5 shipped. SOLD! Last is turbo coolant line banjo crush gasket washers. I have 5 total. You need 4 when replacing the line or 2 when unbolting a single side. Asking $1 shipped per washer. Sold! Thanks guys! Cheers -Justin
  2. brand new in box dryer and conversion kit (fittings and o-rings). everything you need to pump 134a into your AC! http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc92/pocketrocket1331/Mobile%20Uploads/Downers_Grove-20130806-00329_zpsb6095a77.jpg?t=1376627282 40 shipped. -Justin
  3. thanks guys. Here's a video of it trying to turn over. http://s213.photobucket.com/user/pocketrocket1331/media/IMG_1438_zpsec57f608.mp4.html
  4. hey guys....I haven't really been on here at all in the past year. The quest hasn't run reliably in a long while and had to sit waiting at home while I was at school for the year. Now This summer I got the car running, driving, and then it shut off on me. It was idling to warm up and just died like I pulled the key. no shaking, sputtering, anything. It starts up but dies instantly. It just does the initial rev up. It has 40psi fuel, spark, all timing is correct... I think its electrical in the idle control system. Either way, I need a reliable car to get me to work for my internship next month as well as back and forth to/at school. Thus, this girl needs to go. The suspension has been restored, sandblasted, por15'd, color coated, and rebuilt with all new OEM hardware, poly bushings, MK1 strut braces (both), D2 coilovers, SHP 9 rears, 7 fronts, drilled and slotted rotors, SS brake lines, toyo proxes 4 tires with 40% tread left. . Engine has a fresh stock rebuild, all new rings and seals, no overbore. 4x miles on it. Brand new NJV m28 head, SS OS valves, Ti retainers and springs, hydraulic rockers, custom groundcam, new 52mm intake and TB, LSP 650/850 injectors, MSD 6AL ignition, 88/89 ecu, synapse DV valve, *DM 2.25 IC piping, *DM 4" IC, stock ported andstress releived manifold, ported hotside, 14g turbo, Mk1 3" DP, MK1 2.5 DP back with SLP powerflo muffer, AEM truboost, AEM EUGO, 3" GM MAF, MAF-T gen 2, bosch 044 pump, Comp Clutch stage 4clutch and 15lb flywheel. also has oldschool kenwood double DIN radio, 5 toggle switch pannel, blox gold shift knob, MOMO competition wheel. 89 auto down window switch. old school HKS turbo timer. MK1 short shifter. H4 headlights, 55w fogs, 83 tails. Also an endless list of basic maintence stuff like sensors, hoses, wires, etc. Rebuilt distributor, new vac advance, belts, fluids, everything. I think there may be stuff I'm missing too. only issues are rust. I found the PO filled rust holes in the frame rails with bondo. Cleaned em out, grinding them clean, and I have one patched and boxed it with seam and plug welded 16ga steel. I have the patches pre cut for the other rail, just needs to be welded on. I'm asking for 4k obo. once you fix its current problem, break in the motor, and then properly tune the MAFT, This thing will rape. It breaks loose on my driveway on a rough tune just taking off. I really wish I had time, but the real world is catching up to me and I can't be bumming off my dad's truck anymore pics: http://s213.photobucket.com/user/pocketrocket1331/library/my%20quest?sort=3&page=1 http://s213.photobucket.com/user/pocketrocket1331/library/Mobile%20Uploads?sort=3&page=1 Located in Downers Grove, IL. A western suburb of chicago.
  5. Looking for a full bolt in mech lifter assembly in good condition, my hydro lifters are loud with my regrind cam and I just don't think they can handle the cam profile. The oil passages in the rocker assemblies are different between hydro and mech so I'd like the whole set of mech rocker arms, rocker shafts, and cam cap dowel pins. Next I need a turbo, perferably a 16g, 18g, etc. Would be even sweeter if it was a tdo6 wheel. No matter what, I want it quick, bolt on, and cheap. Just need to get my car running again. Shipping will be to 60515. Thanks, -Justin
  6. drop idle to 800.... my whatever cam sounds smooth at 1k but its got some good lope at 800! -Justin
  7. Food for thought, if you need tach output you can use MSD 6AL, they have tach outputs -Justin
  8. inch and a quarter of bead- they'll be 16 and 17 inches in diamater across the barrels -Justin
  9. I drove it with the lifter noise but I know they were getting oil- When cranking by hand I had made sure every lifter pressurized sometime during the cycle. Like I posted earlier, we had also pressurized all the lifters until they all squirted oil out of the top bleed holes when the ignition and fuel was still out of the car. I cranked it with the starter while Derrick made sure that every lifter got oil. The noise didn't go away with the lifters. Cal, I didn't "question an experienced member". Indiana never stated what weight he recommended I use- I was the one that mentioned 10w30, and that's why I asked if I should go even thicker. Everyone is getting hot nuts about me not giving info yet everyone is discussing different things, arguing back and forth with stuff I never mentioned, and then turning around and freaking out on me for not giving enough information when the information in question is stuff other members are suggesting might be possible. I havent been able to get to a computer much in the past few days, sorry I couldn't keep up on the topic. -Justin
  10. At first I thought secondary injector troubles, but then how could i take it to almost 6k? even on low load, the secondary must kick in by 6k... -Justin
  11. I retorqued the head hot today and cranked it over by hand and made sure every lifter pressurizes- which they do. That baffled me. The shafts were in the correct position with the mating dimples matching up. Indiana, I'll get some 10-30 when im back in town next week. Or should I go even thicker? The facebook update tech is talking about is this: I took it to drive finally to see if the lifters would quite down with some driving. made it half way around the block when i came to a hill and as soon as the car got load it sputtered, back fired, and started dying out. It idles fine, it revs freely fine, but when it gets load below like 3k rpm, it does the sputter/backfire/die out thing. I was able to ease it all the way up to just under 6k rpm smoothly with just barely any throttle. engine braked it back down to idle and went again. I was able to smoothly reach positive pressure in the manifold above 3kish rpm with no stutters or anything. I made sure not to boost it much so i kept it around 1psi. I checked timing about 12 times, and got the distributor to 10btdc (with a light) and it landed just so that the notch in the distributor lined up with the top edge of the cylinder head- which i think is how it's suppose to be? still didnt help with the load problem though. I then just got it back to the shop and parked it because I was already late for work. Now I'm going out of town and won't be back to the car until next Tuesday. I think it's ignition problems because I would watch my wideband when it was sputtering and dying out. from a high 14-low 15 idle, on rev up to slip the clutch it would stay right in the 14s and then when it would get load from slipping the clutch it would still be at 14-15 until it went a hay wire 10 (maxed) to 18+ (maxed) which i think is just whack readings due to the backfires. By that I don't think its fuel? my injectors ran perfectly fine when I took the engine apart and I left the whole intake mani and TB assembled and it sat on the shelf while I did the block and head work. Vacuum advance is less than a year old and was working fine when I tore the car down. I was told possibly a bad 02 sensor? that isn't very old either but it could be a possibility... It has an MSD 6al system but that was all working great when i tore the engine down and I never actually touched any of that. Just unplugged the distributor to remove the engine...rest of the ignition system stayed as it was. I made my own MSD wires the other day using a universal v8 kit and all the crimps looked GREAT. They were done using the supplied tool from MSD and I followed the procedure outlined by the kit. I guess when I come back my list will be: -thicker oil -New injector clips ( I have a spare set that I've been meaning to upgrade to [quick release style] sooo yeah) -new 02 sensor maybe? -new spark plugs ( I have a spare sets...I used my old ones today because I left my spares back at the house. my old ones all looked good and were properly gapped though.) -ensure all plug wires are tight edit: also, cal: my title outlines my exact problem I started the topic for. "first start up on rebuild and hydro lifters wont shut up" I think that is pretty descriptive since I was asking for reasons why my hydraulic lifters wouldn't quite down... edit 2: seller- I found it's an adjustment I need to make on the throttle cable that is making it idle high. if i pull on the pedal with my foot idle drops to 900-950. CTS is wired correctly...never messed with the stock wiring. I'll run through the TPS/ISC reset again though I had just reset them prior to removing the engine and that whole system stayed assembled on the manifold on the shelf the whole time. Only thing that would have changed is throttle cable adjustment.
  12. I used 20w50 in my old engine too, but that had miles on it. When brand new with factory spec clearances the cars manual calls for 10w30. I'll probably work my way up to 20w50 by 70k miles. run 10w30 synthetic after a couple thousand on 5w30 conventional. -Justin
  13. you can see the sleeve in this picture. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=416453 -Justin
  14. There should be a metal ring that you had to press into the upper balance shaft hole on the face of the block. This sleeve blocks the oil passages that run to that balance shaft. without that sleeve and without a balance shaft there, all your pressure is going to just ooze out those passages into the balance shaft cave thing. -Justin
  15. This is a top end off my old engine that i ran for a week with no noise or anything. It's an unknown cam from FLATBROKE13- he disappeared off the forum before i could get specs. 1mm OS SS valves, titanium springs, retainers, hydro lifters (I assume stock). They ran quite and fine 2 months ago. He ran the head for 650 miles too. Once the valve tick goes away im going to make sure its at temp and then retorque head studs hot, then reassemble and go drive it no boost for 100 miles, an oil change at 500 miles, and thats it. it idles high due to the MAFT tune so it idles at roughly 1500-1700 rpm by itself anyways, so thats the rpm it was at for the time. Tomorrow im going to hold revs at 3000ish for 90-120 seconds to see if higher oil pressure can help shut em up. BSE now so at start up i had 3/4 gauge oil pressure and after warming up it dropped to just about half mark. the rebuild was done on a non-spun 60-70k mile block- arp rod studs, new rings, polished crank, balanced assembly, BSE, 2 thousands off the head, head and valve train cleaned and pressure tested, block was in spec, ajusa head gasket, honed cylinder with minor shadowing at the tops (2 thousands was the highest value they could measure in the shadows) , standard rings, standard bearings. i think thats everything it has 5-30w shell conventional oil with lucus rebuilt engine break-in (with zinc) additive, and napa gold premium filter -Justin edit: I had a tech watch the engine bay at start up for leaks. caught an oil leak that sprung after the first 5 mins from the turbo feed line at the filter block. took care of it and it idled for 10 mins no leaks and i shut it down after the valves wouldn't shut up for fear of damage or something like that. If its okay to drive with the ticking lifters, I'll just get it to temp tomorrow with idle, retorque head studs, and go drive it and see if the lifters quite up. what mile/time limit should i stop at if they don't quite up? I can't imagine that loud smacking is doing good on the cam or lifters...
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