shinjimae Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Ok so the g54b that came in the 88 starion i recently purchased is poo and i cant find a replacement and it cant be rebuilt SOOOOOO im gonna swap the damn thing. on account of it seems to be the easiest to swap i have chosen the 302/5.0 swap i can get my hands on one of these motors for a decent price So my question is WHAT THE HELL DO I NEED i know from reading just about every thread on the swap that i need the following 351W 3/4" drop mountsFront sump oil pan5.0 longblock.custom driveshaft now thats about all i know. is the AOD easier to do than a T5? if so what all am i gonna need to make the motor auto and get it setup in the car. now i know alot of cutting grinding and welding will have to be done thats not a big deal i can do that as needed i just need to know i have the parts required or at least i know what i need to get. help me out here please guys ive read every damn thread on this site and either the thread just up and ends or its not clear on what needs to be done. so someone help me out here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinjimae Posted January 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) ok so i guess ill post some pics since ive already done some work. When the car was purchased this is the condition of the motor.... http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/wishihadahonda/starion/012310140014_01.jpg yeah no pan the mains and rod ends have been removed along with the water,oil,pump and just about every other gosh darn thing on the motor. so we decided lets yank it and run it over to a machine shop and see if it can be saved..... pile of parts that came with the turtle with the car lmao http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/wishihadahonda/starion/012310140151_01.jpg Yanking ithttp://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/wishihadahonda/starion/012310135434_01.jpg Got it out http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/wishihadahonda/starion/012310152043.jpg Alright borrowed and engine stand and a helping hand and impact from a buddy and the motor is on the engine stand http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/wishihadahonda/starion/012310162750_01.jpg Empty bayhttp://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s99/wishihadahonda/starion/012310164041_01.jpg ill take some pics of the motor and what not tonight. its already been to the machine shop which is why im now swapping lol Edited January 28, 2010 by shinjimae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) well do you plan on going with a carb or fi?youll also have to make a trans mount but theres no use in that til its in so you can see what you need.youll need a big hammer to widen the trans tunnel in a few places for the aod.5 sp is easier because of size.i never used the drop mounts.i used stock 92 mustang motor mounts.there really is no complete list of whats needed because there are too many routes that can be taken.what would you like to know first? Edited January 28, 2010 by tim si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinjimae Posted January 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) well we are gonna go check out a carbed mustang today for a good price so this is more of a project i would like to make it FI just for mpg and power reasons. i would prefer to keep it a manual trans car but im not sure how to do the clutch and what not. im not completly understanding how to use the toyota slave cylinder im mainly trying to get the main components in to get the motor mocked in the bay...... and what all can i remove from the bay cause its a rats nest.... Edited January 28, 2010 by shinjimae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubya Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Cool! I'm getting ready to start on my 5.0 swap also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinjimae Posted January 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 yeah hopefully we can help each other out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 5.0 SWAP Checklist:-Buy mustang=CHECK-Sell starquest=CHECK j/k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinjimae Posted January 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 pickin up a mustang today so if anyone is interested in a damn near perfect shell then by all means feel free to offer lol im not married to the idea of this swap i just like this car but i would sell it if someone took it off my hands for what i got in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) if youre not 100% committed to the swap then you shouldnt even start.this takes alot of determination to see it through.''yesterday you were using a chevy''without knowing your location it would be hard to sell. Edited January 28, 2010 by tim si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinjimae Posted January 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) corpus christi tx. and im just the mechanic to tell you the truth the car owner keeps changing his mind but we have decided on the 302 swap on account of it being the simples Edited January 29, 2010 by shinjimae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 (edited) well i can tell you the carb is much easier way to go.plus its cheaper to mod.throw a good edelbrock intake on there and a 600 holley and go.itll save you alot of time on wiring and money.ive done been through it.the only reason i went efi this last time was because of the turbo.the t-5 is way easier because its smaller.the aod will work but youll have to do some work to the tunnel.i thought the slave would be hard but it was the easiest part.all you do is drill the holes for the slave rod and itll work perfect.from what ive seen in your pics,you can get rid of the cruise control,power steering pump+lines,pull the radiator and i would get rid of the abs system.theres a post on here somewhere on what to do.its alot of weight+just in the way.you can start putting the 5.0 in as soon as you get those things out of the way and get the front sump oil pan.oh,forgot to mention when you go to the front sump,your dipstick in the rear will be useless from now on.youll need to plug that hole and drill the timing cover on the pass.font side.when you look at the timing cover youll see where it goes.just replace with a front dipstick from an older model or lokar makes a nice one.stock headers will work but i think the third tube on the drivers side will have to be bent some to clear the steering box.itll still be close but it wont cause any problems.just get enough room so it doesnt rattle..youll prob have to set it in part way to see where.ill post a link to my photobucket pics and you can see the header before putting it in my red quest.there are alot of pics so youll have to prowl a little.the best way to do the motor mounts is start going in with the motor and find where you need to drill your holes for the mounts.just make sure theyre level so your engine isnt twisted.with the holes drilled it should sit right in there.throw a jack under the trans and raise it''checking for clearence''if the tunnel needs bent a little ,do what you need to do. i have 2 quest with 5.0s in them.one has a mount with brackets that fit the factory bolt holes for the trans mount.the other has a flat bar that goes to each frame rail and bolts in.the choice is yours on that.if your not going with big power you can get by with the quest driveshaft with a ford trans yoke and just shorten it.mine worked til i went to the track.if you might want to race'' and i mean with slicks''use the mustang shaft and get someone to machine a piece to fit the torque tube.the best advice i can give is get an alum.radiator from summit that will fit youre car with inlet and outlet to fit the 302.dont even bother finding something used.i bought mine for about $150.pm me and ill try to find the part #.fuel pump will depend on efi or carb.you can use the ford power steering with modified lines.does this help any?heres my link.http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/ Edited January 29, 2010 by tim si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinjimae Posted January 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 helps tremendously........ the mustang donor we went to look at today is not as nice as i hoped so were still searching for a reliable donor motor. also talking with a guy in florida with a stock motor freshly rebuilt with a few goodies so may still go with the stock motor.....which i dont like i personally think the g54b is a retarded crappy design considering how much the heads crack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 although they could have prob.built a little better head i think the biggest problem is people letting them run down and not taking care of them.some of these guys have made crazy power with them with little aftermarket support.thats pretty good for 20yr old stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSI_law Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 (edited) Hey, I'm from Corpus. I took a military leave from the police department to serve in the army. Currently station in Hawaii. I did a 5.0 swap to my '87 quest when I lived there. I sold it to a friend that has a shop at the corner of Holly and staples in the warehouses behind Whiskey River. His name is louie. He does Auto body and paint. So if you want to see one first hand its over there. It was silver. Edited January 29, 2010 by TSI_law Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shinjimae Posted January 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 yes ive heard lots of rumors bout that guy lol but i cant ever find him lol to check his car out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdubya Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 although they could have prob.built a little better head i think the biggest problem is people letting them run down and not taking care of them.some of these guys have made crazy power with them with little aftermarket support.thats pretty good for 20yr old stuff. I can honestly say Tim that you're info is the sole reason I'm still wanting to do my V8 swap. We all appreciate it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim si Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 thanks,maybe one day i can get all this info sorted out and do one big write-up on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig87 Posted January 30, 2010 Report Share Posted January 30, 2010 I have a chrome front sump 302 pan that Id take 25 plus shipping for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A.Wilder Posted April 25, 2010 Report Share Posted April 25, 2010 you can get rid of the cruise control,power steering pump+lines,pull the radiator and i would get rid of the abs system.theres a post on here somewhere on what to do.its alot of weight+just in the way.you can start putting the 5.0 in as soon as you get those things out of the way any idea where that post is? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yzrider Posted April 29, 2010 Report Share Posted April 29, 2010 Would converting the starion to manual rack steering help make this swap any easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87questkid Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 well i can tell you the carb is much easier way to go.plus its cheaper to mod.throw a good edelbrock intake on there and a 600 holley and go.itll save you alot of time on wiring and money.ive done been through it.the only reason i went efi this last time was because of the turbo.the t-5 is way easier because its smaller.the aod will work but youll have to do some work to the tunnel.i thought the slave would be hard but it was the easiest part.all you do is drill the holes for the slave rod and itll work perfect.from what ive seen in your pics,you can get rid of the cruise control,power steering pump+lines,pull the radiator and i would get rid of the abs system.theres a post on here somewhere on what to do.its alot of weight+just in the way.you can start putting the 5.0 in as soon as you get those things out of the way and get the front sump oil pan.oh,forgot to mention when you go to the front sump,your dipstick in the rear will be useless from now on.youll need to plug that hole and drill the timing cover on the pass.font side.when you look at the timing cover youll see where it goes.just replace with a front dipstick from an older model or lokar makes a nice one.stock headers will work but i think the third tube on the drivers side will have to be bent some to clear the steering box.itll still be close but it wont cause any problems.just get enough room so it doesnt rattle..youll prob have to set it in part way to see where.ill post a link to my photobucket pics and you can see the header before putting it in my red quest.there are alot of pics so youll have to prowl a little.the best way to do the motor mounts is start going in with the motor and find where you need to drill your holes for the mounts.just make sure theyre level so your engine isnt twisted.with the holes drilled it should sit right in there.throw a jack under the trans and raise it''checking for clearence''if the tunnel needs bent a little ,do what you need to do. i have 2 quest with 5.0s in them.one has a mount with brackets that fit the factory bolt holes for the trans mount.the other has a flat bar that goes to each frame rail and bolts in.the choice is yours on that.if your not going with big power you can get by with the quest driveshaft with a ford trans yoke and just shorten it.mine worked til i went to the track.if you might want to race'' and i mean with slicks''use the mustang shaft and get someone to machine a piece to fit the torque tube.the best advice i can give is get an alum.radiator from summit that will fit youre car with inlet and outlet to fit the 302.dont even bother finding something used.i bought mine for about $150.pm me and ill try to find the part #.fuel pump will depend on efi or carb.you can use the ford power steering with modified lines.does this help any?heres my link.http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t126/timtsi/this man here is awesome thank you for all the info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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