Jump to content

kev

Moderators
  • Posts

    2559
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    41

kev last won the day on March 19

kev had the most liked content!

2 Followers

Profile Information

  • Location
    PA
  • Gender
    Male

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • Website URL
    http://

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    17202
  • Model
    Other
  • Type
    Other
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

Recent Profile Visitors

12100 profile views

kev's Achievements

Rising Star

Rising Star (9/14)

  • Helpful Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare

Recent Badges

9.1k

Reputation

  1. injectors are known to stick especially if the car has been sitting awhile. Pull them out on put the tips in a cup of carb cleaner for a few hours. I usually do a quick test using a large syringe connected to the injector input, via a piece of tubing, with denatured alcohol. Energize the injector (using an old injector clip connected to a 12V power supply, or even a 9V battery, and push down on the syringe to make sure they spray. If they open and spray, then you the car should at least fire up. If not, it is something prior, such as wiring (including the clips) or the resistor. It's usually the primary injector, black top, that sticks. When this happens to me, I usually can get the car to fire up and chug by pumping the gas pedal during cranking (i.e. the secondary, green top, injector is energizing when pumping the pedal). If this is indeed the problem, and the car fires up and runs semi-decent after a quick cleaning, I'd recommend sending your injectors out for a professional cleaning/inspection. It's pretty cheap and fast (around $15-20 an injector). They do an initial flow test, clean the injector out thoroughly, inspect for internal and external leaks, clean the contacts, and do a post flow test. kev
  2. Thanks! Painting enhances my anxiety haha. I just don't enjoy it. Love the cutting/welding, putty work is bearable, but painting sucks. The paint is so expensive, and spraying is dependent on so many factors....one of which is my own lack of experience because I only paint cars, or exterior panels of cars, once in like every 10 years. I also broke the cardinal rule...painting the in the winter. But if it wasn't for my experimenting with my gun settings, I really believe it would have gone flawlessly. Got the car back together this past weekend and took it out for a drive. Unfortunately, when putting the wheels back on, I saw that one of my axle boots is ripped. So won't be driving it much until I address that. Still need to paint the c-pillars and rear louvers and get back on refinishing my spare set of wheels. The passenger door in this photo is original paint. The front half of the fender is in base coat but the full fender cleared. I'm very happy in how the paint matched, especially using PPG shopline base which isn't known for matching original paint well.
  3. Yes, you have good fuel pressure. Do you hear any increased noise of the fuel pump as it gets warmer? Typically, if the pump is the issue, It will be howling loud when it is hot. If not, I'd put aside fuel (but leave that gauge on there if you can). Injectors may be a culprit though but being that it does run when cold, I'm not sure I'd focus on them at the moment. Any air leaks in the intake system? The smallest of a leak can cause the car to die, especially after it comes up to temp...including vacuum leaks. You can cap off every vacuum port and try it...leaving it at idle (don't drive the car without at least the vac advance connected though, but idling is fine). Any codes on the ECU? In the video, it looks like there is a bunch of stuff added to your car over the years (turbo timer, etc.). Disconnect all of that as you work to diagnose your problem. I've learned to always start with what either I or a previous owner 'changed/altered' on the car.
  4. I use 'SEM trim black' on the window trim and really all of the satin black trim on these cars, as well as any car really. I love the stuff.
  5. When it goes to stall, can you keep it running at all...by goosing the throttle, etc? The coolant temperature sensor may be the issue. If you connect a 300 ohm resistor between the two poles of the connector, it will simulate a fully warm condition. Worth a try if you have a resistor handy (I miss radioshack).
  6. I thought I'd put a follow-up on my original post on the status of my winter project. I believe I have the body work complete, at least for the near term. Wow, what a PIA! I'm so glad I made the decision NOT to paint the entire car. It was just so much work. This was probably one of my worst paint jobs. I laid too much material when spraying my clear and it resulted in several runs and drags. That entailed many hours of work to repair. There still are a few minor sags in the paint here and there, visible in right lighting/angle, but being that this thing is a driver, I'm ok with it. All in all, I'm finally pretty happy with it. The paint matches the original very well after a lot of cutting/buffing. Oops, finger in the frame.. Never mind the stone chips in the header panel, etc....those are panels still in original paint. But it all blended in well. I need to paint the C pillar panels and the rear louvers (pulled those off for now)...but these will be just rattle can satin black. Finishing restoring my spare set of 7/8" wheels will be the spring/summer project. Right now, I'm just trying to get it back together and drivable. kev
  7. Crows foot and a long extension will enable you to undo the HP fitting on the top of the box from the top. Just take your time, don't want to strip that fitting. The hard part is snaking out/in the line without bending it (well at least the new one). Other hard part is starting the threads on the HP fitting into the top of the box on that new line. Get that started before you have the line fully constrained in place because you may have to wiggle it around a bit to get the threads started and snug.
  8. Welcome back! I'm mostly just a lurker on FB...it's not really my cup of tea, for many reasons. Going to Carlisle this year? I'm contemplating it; import mainly but possibly Chrysler too. Also want to get out to the lehigh valley in the spring and possibly meet up with a few members.
  9. Yes, it is hard to compare being that I stripped away all of the factory sound-deadening as well as highly modified the car (suspension, exhaust, etc. etc). So, I really only have my stock 88 to compare it with. I will say that the stereo system sounds real good. Zero rattles with the subwoofer which was something I always had with this same sound system in conquests (including this same car prior to the restoration). I don't regret doing all of this but not sure I'd jump into similar project on another car in the future. Thus, I fully agree with the route you are going.
  10. I'm glad to hear that!
  11. It should work for either. I also have a downpipe that was given to me with my driver quest, that I believe to be a TEP but can't confirm. It has the chamfer seat which allows mating to the factory exhaust (which is how I have it installed) but it has a two bolt flange which should work fine with a standard 2.25" 2 bolt exhaust gasket. I think you should be OK.
  12. I view this differently and would actually consider it if it were more local to me. Although, I'm partial because my first car was an 84 starion ES. It's hard to see if it has a lot of rust though. I assume it does being that it sat in a fiel, but who knows. Although, I see it only comes with a bill of sale. I was always told that getting a new Pennsylvania title is practically impossible. It's amazing how different that process is depending on the state you are in. I know that PA junkyards typically give you a salvage title when purchasing a car like this.
  13. Parts cost and availability have been changing so rapidly over the past few years, I'm not sure I could provide any reasonable estimates anymore. I will say that the most beneficial modification that I have experienced in over 30 years of driving these cars is an MPI conversion. It is, by far, the most noticeable performance improvement, enhanced tuneability, and increased the reliability of the car. Although it is the most expensive modification I've performed and does require a bit of fabrication, even after you source a manifold.
  14. Very interesting, specifically the mustang 3.8L. I had a few friends over the years who had 6 cyl mustangs and always had the vision to create a super fast v6. None of them actually retained the car, either updated to a v8 car or got out of the hobby by buying some boring SUV or something. Anyways, that looks incredible! And I love the 94 mustangs! I have a large dealer poster of the 94 mustang hanging in my garage. My father was a service mechanic at a ford dealer at the time and got me that poster that was on the sales floor for the 94 model year. I also had the opportunity to drive a 93 cobra and a new 94 gt, both of which were on the sales floor at the time, when I was only 16 years old..thanks to him working there. As to the mustang, good eye! But it is actually a 68 fastback 390GT/4 sp car, red on red. That car was and is my true dream car. Unfortunately, I've been working on this stupid black car for the past 2 years or so and ignoring the stang and my other 'good' conquest, for that matter. I'd love to hear about your 67 sometime. BTW, I'm originally from the Lehigh Valley. That dealer I mentioned was Bethlehem Ford. I'm hoping to get that way this summer. Techboy and I keep saying we will meet up but two summers have gone by and it hasn't happened, well at least with our cars. Need to plan on something this year and meet up with the lehigh valley CQ owners.
×
×
  • Create New...