BogusSVO

Komeuppance..... Here you go!! http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=130297 Shows them both side by side. I am not machining the 14g CHRA, just swapping all the 16g parts into the 14g exhaust housing.

I think it ought to do well, I also smoothed and raduis the lower lip. With the 16g being installed, it should turn out real nice. CCA, He is getting a bigger turbo, and turning up the boost. Boost readings is the measure of a restriction inside the engine.

He brought me the TB and intake, said make it fit.. So thats what I did.

Modifying the TBI injector hat. Sorry no before pics. I still have a fair amount of work to go on this. Looking on the inside of the hat, there is a bit of material that can stand to be removed to help the flow of air to the TB. Due to the thickness of the casting being to thin just to grind it out, the outside has to be welded up some. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6497.jpg Now the inside can be ground to the desired shape. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6498.jpg

14g Hotside porting. Well I thought I had used the 5.5cm gasket, But I ported to a 7cm gasket. Top left is the 5.5cm gasket on the top right is a used 7cm gasket. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6517.jpg The exhaust side http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6511.jpg I put a good radius on the waste gate passage, along with opening the waste gate flapper passage a bit. All this should help when the Evo III 16g is set into the exhaust housing.

Modifying a TBI Intake The customer bought a larger throttle body to install, but due to the size of the intake, There will be a minimal improvement in flow with out enlarging the intake bore in the manifold. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6493.jpg Stock is appox 1.950 The new TB has a bore of 2.040 http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6507.jpg I also had to hand cut upper and lower TB gaskets. There is a steel bushing in the intake bore for the EGR passages. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6485.jpg It has a split in it. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6489.jpg It has to be removed, so a chisel and hammer will be used to fold the bushing in for removal. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6488.jpg There is an EGR groove behind the bushing that will cause turbulence of the incoming air flow. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6493.jpg To deal with this issue, I will install a larger bushing. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6496.jpg If I had a End mill with a proper sized fly cutter, this would be an easy install. I had to hand port the bore and press fit the bushing. I only ported the upper lip of the bore, and had the bushing seat against the top of the bottom lip. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6499.jpg Then ported the lower manifold lip to the ID of the new bushing. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/WORK/Starion%20Turbo/DSCF6502.jpg The excess bushing is trimmed down. Now the bore finished ID is 2.100 Next the intake will be cleaned, and then the TB mounting area will be surfaced.

metric man.... Seems you are asking about several diffrent procedures. First you talk of checking all 4 corners of the block deck, Check them to what? The oil pan rail? I would hope not, there is a large varance in how the oil pan rail is machined. Some shops will set up off the oil pan rail to deck the block, a better way is to set up off the mains. Next you talk about measuring from the crank CL to the deck surface, that is done with a diffrent measuring set up and with out the rotating assembly in the block. On the question about measuring the Center to center of the rod, this is done with out the rod bearings, since it is done with the specs on the bing end housing bore. Now when you add rod center to center, plus the poston height, that is only 2/3rds of the info you need, you also take the stroke of the crank and divide it in half and add that also, that total needs to be equall or less that the block deck height, unless you want the crowns of the pistons out the top of the block, but this poses other issues. Basicly what this does is gives you one of the measurements needed to calculate static compression ratio. The clay method you mention I normally use to check piston to valve clearance.

How to check piston to deck clearance The subject is a Toyota 2ZZ The block is being milled to ensure a good gasket sealing surface. The short block must be dry assembled with crank, rods, and pistons. Rod and main bearings are installed, and only the 2nd ring installed. The tools used are a dial indicator and bridge stand Now zero the dial indicator on the block with .100 preload. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/How%20to/how%20to%202/DSCF4412.jpg Next slide the dial indicator over the piston and rock the crank back and forth till the highest reading is found. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/How%20to/how%20to%202/DSCF4413.jpg Now read the difference from zero to the depth of the piston. In this case it was .004 It took .003 to square the block. Leaving the piston .001 in the bore at true TDC

Welcome! Slick ride!

Welcome! You cut the deal on the car yet?

Dame nice ride! Intresting lingo you have!

More oil filter cut aways... http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html A good vid... even tho it is a Fram sales pitch.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecpkvsnKKNg

Oil filter cut away Fram & WIX http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/1985%20Thunderbird%20Turbo%20coupe/oil%20filters/DSCF4636.jpg http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/1985%20Thunderbird%20Turbo%20coupe/oil%20filters/DSCF4637.jpg http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/1985%20Thunderbird%20Turbo%20coupe/oil%20filters/DSCF4638.jpg http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/1985%20Thunderbird%20Turbo%20coupe/oil%20filters/DSCF4639.jpg Fram on left, Wix on right http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/1985%20Thunderbird%20Turbo%20coupe/oil%20filters/DSCF4640.jpg The Fram bypass valve, also notice the cardboard end caps http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/1985%20Thunderbird%20Turbo%20coupe/oil%20filters/DSCF4641.jpg See the wix filter media mount on the right, Fram has a gasket http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/1985%20Thunderbird%20Turbo%20coupe/oil%20filters/DSCF4642.jpg

How to replace a seat in an Aluminum Head The head being worked on is a 2002 Ford Focus 2.0l SOHC This style of head, the “split port” Intake I have seen this as a common problem. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3885.jpg The first step is to mount and level the head into the head shop. (I am using a TnS 2000 Head Shop) http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3886.jpg The next step is setting 90* carbide cutter to a smaller diameter than the original seat counter bore. Appox. .006-.012 smaller http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3887.jpg Here you can see where the intake seat fell out of #3 Clyinder and “pebblized” and beat up in the quench areas of the combustion chamber. A quick touch up with a die grinder to smooth and remove the burs. All the damage was inside the fire ring, So head gasket sealing will not be an issue. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3885.jpg Now we cut out the remaining intake seats, I am a firm believer, if one has fallen out, the chance is too great for one of the other three to fall out. The cost is also reasonable. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3888.jpg Now once the seat has be shelled out, take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry and/or chip the shell of the remaining seat out. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3890.jpg This is will be about what is left. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3891.jpg These are the new seats, they are larger OD and smaller ID and have a greater depth then the OE seats. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3892.jpg To fit the new seats in the head, I have to cut new counter bores. This will insure a round counter bore and the proper press fit. Between .005-.007 http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3893.jpg Here the seat depth is set, I like to have a minimum depth of .220, and these seats will go in to appox. .260-.270. The hard stop will make sure I will not exceed the maximum depth of .300 http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3894.jpg Most aluminum heads like to tear and not cut with a smooth finish. I few squirts of oil will help the cutting, along with a faster cutter speed. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3895.jpg How the new counter bore looks after machining http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3897.jpg Next is to knock in the seat inserts. Use the proper sized driver and a large hammer. After all the seats are knocked in, the head must be re-leveled before any more machine work can be done. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3896.jpg Next is to set seat placement on the valve. Where the point touches, is where the top of the valve to seat contact area will be on the valve face. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3898.jpg Now with that locked down, put the guide pilot in the setting fixture and then slide the cutter over it. Now the bit holder gets moved in or out as needed to achieve where contact will be made. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3899.jpg A test cut is made on the new seat, and contact area is checked by dying the valve face and spinning the valve on the seat. Placement was great here, center of the valve face. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3900.jpg Now seat placement has been set, I have to set the seat depth so proper valve tip height is achieved. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/Ford%20Focus%20head%20work/DSCF3901.jpg now all that is set, the rest of the valve job will be completed, cut the exhaust seats. Valves will be loaded into the casting, new seals installed, spring pressures checked, springs, retainers, and valve locks installed, a vacuum check for seal of seat and valve. Now it will be ready to be bolted back on.

How to CC a Combustion Chamber The subject head is a Chevy LT1 Head The first set up is used when the valves do not protrude above the gasket surface. This is simple in procedure. Fill the CC burette with a fluid, I use water, some use a color alcohol, cover with the sealing plate, then flow the fluid through the hole in the seal plate till all air bubbles are out of the combustion chamber. Then read how much fluid has flowed from the burette. This stock head measured 54cc http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/How%20to/DSCF4068.jpg The second set up is used when the valves do protrude above the gasket surface. This is a little more difficult in its set up. Since the valve heads protrude above the gasket surface, the seal plate can not be used, I use my dial indicator with a point, The indicator must be zeroed, with no pre load to the deck surface. Once that is done it is a matter of leveling the head and filling the combustion chamber just till the fluid touches the indicator point. Then read the burette. This LT1 head measures 49cc http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii49/BogusSVO/How%20to/DSCF4069.jpg Alcohol would have given a more accurate reading with this method, since alcohol does not “dome” like water.