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"Grace Silver" MPI/06SL2-20G/MegaSquirt


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#101 Preludedude

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 11:21 AM

View Postspeedyquest, on 02 September 2018 - 09:40 AM, said:

What brand AN fittings did you purchase? If they are from a reputable company like Fragola or Aeroquip then you should have no problems with them at all.

Kev had Aeroquip and Red Horse fittings and he had leaks still....

Edited by Preludedude, 02 September 2018 - 02:12 PM.






#102 speedyquest

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 11:26 AM

Was it at the sealing surface or where the hose and fittings met? You can improperly install them too.

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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#103 Preludedude

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 01:31 PM

View Postspeedyquest, on 02 September 2018 - 11:26 AM, said:

Was it at the sealing surface or where the hose and fittings met? You can improperly install them too.

Either way, Im using PTFE hose and fittings. Kev did say his past experience with PTFE was good and he hadn't had any leak issues...

I bought Summit brand PTFE fittings and Summit brand PTFE braided hose.   We shall see how it holds up....

Edited by Preludedude, 02 September 2018 - 02:13 PM.


#104 importwarrior

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 05:12 PM

Used PTFE on my oil cooler lines. Good stuff.

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#105 Preludedude

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 12:48 PM

Alright...I think Im about ready to attempt to start it up....

Today, I finished up the intercooler piping and got everything installed and finished.

Posted Image

Then I moved on the battery and put in the trunk. I ran 2AWG cable under the car and routed it to the battery tray. I installed a 10mm Stud junction like the picture below, so I could connect everything at the battery tray. I drilled two holes in the battery tray and installed the post. So now I have power to everything.

Posted Image

Then I started working on all the Summit PTFE fuel lines, and installed the ID1050X Injectors. I turned on the fuel pump and checked for leaks.

I did have some fuel spraying out of a few fittings, but that was due to the fitting not being tight enough. I snugged everything down and turned the fuel pump back on, and watched for leaks. And there was nothing anywhere. Pretty excited about that.

So I went ahead and set the base fuel pressure to 42psi.


Posted Image

Edited by Preludedude, 11 September 2018 - 12:50 PM.


#106 Preludedude

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 12:52 PM

I did go ahead and put water in the radiator and some in the reservoir.

All that is left is:

--Put in some oil
--Put in some ATF fluid for the PS
--Hook up laptop and open Scott's tune
--Pray it starts up without any leaks

#107 speedyquest

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 02:32 PM

I'm only going to ask because its important and not because I'm assuming you didn't already... but have you set your base timing before attempting to start it?

1987 Flatty Starion -- Widebody Conversion -- V-Mount Setup --  JDL Tubular Manifold  --  MX-6 Intake -- MS3-Pro -- AEM FPR  --  ARP head studs -- 3" hood exit exhaust -- Hahn Racecraft 16g --  Tial F38 Wastegate -- Tial Q Bov -- Short route piping -- 5 lug & LSD conversion -- Tubular Front End -- Manual Steering Rack Conversion -- Manual Brake Conversion -- Stack Digital Dash -- AEM UEGO -- D2 coilovers -- full GNT poly bushings & mounts -- four 8" rears -- car lightened significantly...  More to come!


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Build Thread --->  http://www.starquest...opic=143564&hl=


#108 Preludedude

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 02:49 PM

View Postspeedyquest, on 11 September 2018 - 02:32 PM, said:

I'm only going to ask because its important and not because I'm assuming you didn't already... but have you set your base timing before attempting to start it?

I put timing (crank pulley) at 0 and I put in the dizzy according to FSM.    Once I get the car idling, I will adjust the timing to 10* BTDC

#109 pcristquester

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 03:07 PM

I hope it starts easy for you. So pretty, i hope that valve cover vent doesn't let it get oily and attract dirt and grime

Edited by pcristquester, 11 September 2018 - 03:08 PM.

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#110 starquestJOE

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Posted 11 September 2018 - 10:55 PM

I ran one of those filters..worked for me. But then again i have nothing on there now and no oil ever comes out

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#111 croquest87

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Posted 12 September 2018 - 10:43 AM

Looks very nice sir!

#112 Preludedude

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Posted 12 September 2018 - 08:33 PM

View PoststarquestJOE, on 11 September 2018 - 10:55 PM, said:

I ran one of those filters..worked for me. But then again i have nothing on there now and no oil ever comes out

I had it on there for a few thousand miles when it was TBI and I never had a problem.  Ive read people preaching against removing the oil separator, but many have removed it with no consequences.  But some have had issues removing it also....

#113 croquest87

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 06:10 AM

Not much comes out of that rear port unless you have lots of blowby or pcv valve doesn't work right to stop boost from entering the valve cover.
With fresh motor and all you shouldn't have any issue's.

#114 Turbo Cary

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Posted 13 September 2018 - 09:57 PM

 Preludedude, on 12 September 2018 - 08:33 PM, said:



I had it on there for a few thousand miles when it was TBI and I never had a problem.  Ive read people preaching against removing the oil separator, but many have removed it with no consequences.  But some have had issues removing it also....

Why not run a catch can? Right now nothing is pulling the vapor out of the cover. It can cause issues with ring sealing. Nothing is keeping a vacuum on the crank case while you're in boost.

As the PCV closes due to positive pressure from the intake, the compressor inlet pipe would draw out the vapor in the case and helping to keep it in a vacuum. Having a vacuum in the crank case keeps the rings pulled toward the cylinder wall.

The factory oil separators work ok, I ran one on mine for a long time. Your car is looking awesome. I would definitely like to come check it out.

Edited by Turbo Cary, 13 September 2018 - 09:58 PM.


#115 Preludedude

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 06:04 AM

Tried turning it over for the first time yesterday....

No luck but I noticed the tach isn't bouncing while cranking so gotta figure out why....

Also my electric fans are coming on when I turn the key so gotta figure that out.  The fans turned on at 185* before I did the engine rebuild. Gotta recheck wiring there now....

And my MSD Blaster2 coil got really hot while I was checking for fuel leaks and the fans were running. I'm wondering if the MSD coil went bad.



#116 Turbo Cary

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 01:30 PM

 Preludedude, on 14 September 2018 - 06:04 AM, said:

Tried turning it over for the first time yesterday....

No luck but I noticed the tach isn't bouncing while cranking so gotta figure out why....

Also my electric fans are coming on when I turn the key so gotta figure that out.  The fans turned on at 185* before I did the engine rebuild. Gotta recheck wiring there now....

And my MSD Blaster2 coil got really hot while I was checking for fuel leaks and the fans were running. I'm wondering if the MSD coil went bad.

Are you on an MS2 system? Have you checked all the settings for inputs/outputs? How are the fans wired and is the ECU controlling the fans?

#117 Preludedude

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Posted 14 September 2018 - 02:03 PM

Well, it actually bumped off and idled for a second or two....But couldnt make it do it again...

Slowly getting there....




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