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badazzquest

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About badazzquest

  • Birthday 07/24/1977

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wausau, Wisconsin
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    54401
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1988
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    After Market
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Being Modded

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  1. With the down economy, unknown job status for '13, no renters insurance (house fire from where I was renting) and not being able to get the car dialed in, I must sell it or trade for a reliable D/D (with cheaper, common parts.) I do not want to part it due to my lack of time or place to do it. It is a RUST FREE 88 with 83 hood and a non-broken air dam. It is 4 point caged. Clean black cloth seats. Stock engine with LowerShores injectors. J/V eliminators I installed the WB AEM and started moving the the HVAC controller to mount the gauges there. Installed a Walbro and cleaned the tank and all new filters. Rebuilt dizzy Fresh tune-up It comes as a package with ALL the extras. 2 Clean R/L complete doors 2 Clean R/L fenders COMPLETE black leather interior including sunroof headliner. Clean seats and clean dash. All the goodies in/under the dash. Good column and cluster. COMPLETE inside and out wiring harness. 2 Complete rear end/suspension set ups 1 is 4 bolt axle the other 6. Set of front suspension set ups (maybe 2 total) 2 good 5-speeds 2 or 3 stock heads (unsure condition) 1 complete stock engine but was starting to use coolant 1 short block 1 new T3-T4 turbo new. unknow turbine sizes and unknow make 2 Extra stock fans set ups Extra stock radiators (2?) 2 Gear boxxes 1 leaks extra stock intercolers 1 Large aftermarket intercooler 4" (I am 99% sure it 4") 2 Extra 1G maf Extra dizzy Extra blaster 2 coil Extra 88 ecm It does have newer paint but it was chipped and scratched prior to me getting the car. BUT NO RUST or signs it was mudded. I think it is a Cali car according to the title. Probably more stuff I can not think of right now. (Lots of little stuff) I gutted 2 donor cars that were very very rusted. The car does drive. It goes fully lean (off the gauge) at operating temp at idle and intermittently while driving. Once it goes lean it will come back to normal after 10-20 seconds and run normal for 30 sec to a min then go lean. I can not seem to get it dialed in. The timing stays dead on. The Fuel pressure stays dead on. Reset tps a bunch of times. It does need a IAC. Even compression when I dropped it in. Can not find vac leaks and I am out of ideas, time, money and a place to work on it. EVERYTHING MUST GO!!! PACKAGE DEAL!!!! $2750 or shoot me a offer. Here is a link to the photos http://photobucket.com/badazzquest88 Thanks for looking text or call 715-212-5101
  2. No....it was from pump to hard line by the tank. Which line are you replacing?
  3. From the Walbo I used the universal barb fitting with 3/8 hose. On the other end of the hose I used a 3/8 barb to male pipe thread that screwed into female pipe and it was a compression onto the hard line once the flare was cut of. It took some digging at the hardware store but I was able to do it with minimum restriction and minimal fittings (2 total). Cut the flare off of the hard line with a tubbing cutter as close to the flare as possible. It will give you enough of a piece of line to get the correct compression fitting.
  4. I was looking for a switched source to hook up a relay. I used the cig lighter hot wire. It is switched. I used that to trigger the relay. A round male terminal fits nicely into the stock harness with a little snugging. Pull the HVAC controller and computer out to access it unless you can get the lighter socket out.
  5. I removed my radio and I am currently mounting gauges and will be replacing the radio once I figure out how to make a custom bezel. I found some wires taped to the radio harness. I peeled it open and found that someone had peeled open the insulation and wrapped wire around the bare spot and taped it back up. I traced the wires to under the LH side of the dash. I found a rats nest of someones wiring. I saw some 12ga wires running under the steering column that were clipped and tucked back up in the dash. I removed the cover and found Scotch Locks on 4 of the Ign Switch wires just below the tumbler. I found a aftermarket relay in the dash also with some wires clipped. Those wires run into the doors and more Scotch Locks on the door latch switch wires. Time to remove it all. Solder and heat shrink all the Boo-Boo wiring. I think I will just replace the Ign Switch. I see Rockauto has some. Any feed back and those after market switches or should I find a OEM one new online. There is no Mitsh. dealer in the area. Or would the Dodge dealer be able to get one. Thanks
  6. I have rebuilt CV shafts before for other cars and I hated it.
  7. My throttle cable stabbed me the last time I put on the TB. (Fraying) I am looking for a good used one or a place to get a new one. I know new vender is hard to find. Shipped price to 54401 Thanks
  8. I did both the O2 and the MAF to be safe. Took it around the block and it ran 95% perfect!
  9. GOT IT!!!! IT'S ALIVE!!!! FINALLY!!!! THANK YOU ALL FOR THE HELP!!!! Now come the fine tuning and the other things it needs like axle seals, brake hoses and fix the trans leaks.
  10. I get that it will run fat on the 1g maf......thats why when it goes so lean it confuses me. I have the wideband installed underneath about 4-6" before the trans cross member I have the ecm reading the wideband O2. Should I hook the heated O2 back up to the ecm?
  11. I swapped ECUs last year. I will change them back and throw the OE MAF back in and go from there. The fuel system was totally cleaned btw. All the grounds have been cleaned and checked also.
  12. My 88 is possessed. I got it from a buddy after he gave up on it. Stock set-up excluding a 1g MAF w/o a translator. Here is a link to a previous post. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=128843 I have recently installed a Walbro, Wideband AEM, new injectors from Lower Shores, removed a modded fuel rail with external FPR and reinstalled a stock set-up. Removed the jet valves. New injector clips. Different IAC. Tested and reset different TPS. The car idles rough and low rpm until warm. At about 11 on the wideband. Minimal concern at this time. Probably weak IAC. After it warms up it smooths out and idles 12-13 wideband. The big problem is after you drive it or come off idle and pull up to a stop, it goes fully lean. The gauge off the scale for about 30 seconds and idles ruff. Then it will smooth out and idle back at 12-13 all day long until you rev it. Then back off the scale. While driving it will randomly go full lean also while at constant throttle position and then after 30 sec or so it will go back into normal range. At WOT it is at 10 on the wideband. Any thoughts? Thank you
  13. Installed the Walbro, eliminated the check valve at the pump. Flushed the entire fuel system. Rebuilt the TB and forn the previous owner who powder coated the TB had assembled the TB and put the butterfly in upside down. Installed the injectors. The knock at tip in is gone!!!! Now when you hold it above idle (1500-3500), it will rev then stall out until the rpms drop to about idle then rev back up. THe wide bad goes full lean, of the scale, then come back into range at the same time the car is surging. Fix one thing and another shows up. I think this car is cursed. Does anyone know of a good exorcist?
  14. Interesting design. Performance might be unknown. $?
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