![](https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/set_resources_1/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
KKruger
Members-
Posts
42 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About KKruger
- Birthday 04/21/1968
Profile Information
-
Interests
Proud 2 B N American !
-
Location
San Diego
-
Gender
Male
Contact Methods
-
ICQ
0
-
Website URL
http://
Previous Fields
-
Zip Code
92121
-
Model
Conquest
-
Type
TSI
-
Model Year
1986
-
Transmission Type
Manual
-
Factory Color
Serbia Black
-
Interior Color
Black
-
Status
Storage
KKruger's Achievements
Newbie (1/14)
0
Reputation
-
No, never been messed with.
-
The 86 doesn't have a battery light. That's why I didn't mention that it came on. I only quoted that post to supply additional information concerning the brake light coming on during low charge conditions and a way to point out the differences in the wiring of the different years. That car was obviously not an 86 because it had a battery light. But to suggest that It is wrong to think it is possible for a car to have a gauge and a corresponding idiot light (see fuel gauge and low fuel light, temp gauge and high temp light, both of which the 86 has, and a volt meter with a corresponding charge light, which the 88, for one example, has) is not a sound analysis. In addition, your assessment that idiot (or tell-tale, the more international term), are typically check engine lights, is not something I would agree with. Whether or not the factory built it to have the brake light come on during low charge conditions is something that none of us will probably be certain of, but to me, IMHO, it appears that in at least the case of the 86, it was designed that way. Either way, the fact remains that it does double as a low charge indicator by its' operation. I am not offended by your comments, in fact, I appreciate all the information anyone provides. I am just trying to add any information that I can for anyone that has a similar problem. Although I don't think your nail in the tire example holds air.
-
These posters may beg to differ. SFBMX88 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=127777 The swap took almost a whole day. To clarify everything, I had to combine the charging diagrams from both an 88 and 86. Just a note, the red brake warning light on the dash of the 86 is also tied into the charging circuit. So, if you are having alternator issues, your dash brake light will illuminate. I think 87 and up has a separate charge/battery light. mikec http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=77688 Dash brake warning light comes on for: * brake fluid in the reservoir is low... or the float is stuck down as Jimmy noted. * parking brake switch (in center console) says the parking brake handle isn't all the way down. * the alternator output voltage is nil. The "bulb check" for the brake light ties into the alternator/charge light via a diode... so when the alternator isn't working you get BOTH the charge light (battery symbol light) and the brake warning light.
-
1. Why? To draw they eye. Not everyone notices the gauges, but an idiot light gets attention. Lots of cars have both. 2. Wrong. My car has an ammeter, not a voltage gauge. 86s are wired much differently than 87s. Some years had a volt gauge, some had an ammeter. Take a look at the FSM and wiring diagram. Those differences include the ebrake alarm as well. 3. If you took the time to reply, you should have taken the time to read the whole thread. The ETACS was eliminated as the issue earlier in the diagnosis.
-
Thanks Tim. I bought the kit from your gp many years ago. I installed a stock GM now (a cheap one) and kept the GP core. What do you suggest as far as a rebuild. I want to rebuild the one I got from you and reinstall it. I see there is a "Western alternator" sticker on it. Should I have them do it? or a local guy? I'm in San Diego. Thanks
-
Solved. First of all, I have been told on the forums that the only time the dash brake light comes on is when the fluid is low, or the float is stuck, or the e brake is engaged. Not true. At least on an 86. On an 86, the dash brake light also doubles as a charge warning light. It is wired this way from the factory. So, when the alternator is going out, or not charging enough, the brake light comes on with a brightness relative to the discharge. I had the problem and the symptom reversed. I saw the brake light coming on as an indicator of a bad ground or short and went on the assumption that it was causing the discharge. I was wrong. The regulator was going out, and the odd, random timing of the light coming on was the alt overheating, the regulator shutting down, then it would cool off and charge fine again. Replace the alt, problem solved. There is another issue with this as well. About the time I did the GM alt conversion many years ago, my e brake, when engaged, would cause a massive current draw, and not allow the car to charge. I assumed there was a wiring problem with the e brake indicator circuit and just unplugged the wire at the handle. Problem solved temporarily, until I could diagnose the problem. Well, I couldn't, so I just left the e brake connector unplugged, and ran that way for years. So, now, instead of the brake indicator light illuminating relative to the discharge condition, it would just come on full blast during discharge, confusing me into thinking that there was a wiring/ground issue when the alt finally started giving out. The GM alternator needs an indicator light in its' circuit to operate correctly, and I do not think that the GM and Mitsu operate exactly the same way. So, by disabling the e brake, I was screwing with the alternator function. possibly relating to its' early demise.I also think there is a possibility that the GM alt conversion is the reason my e brake wiring was pulling on the electrical system in the first place. Has anyone else done the GM conversion on an 86? I would like to know if they had the same issue with the e brake. Well, there it is. Many, many hours of troubleshooting by me and others. Bottom line, the brake indicator light is also the charge warning light on an 86.
-
Deleted double post
-
Ok I read through that and the related threads but I honestly don't think that is the issue, because when it is working right, it works perfect. Alt charges fine, the blinker does not effect the charge needle, everything is bright and powerful. It is only during this intermittent problem, the brake light randomly coming on, that everything goes awry, the alt is having a very hard time powering the battery, the lights dim, at stop lights the signal lights and stereo stop working. Then after a bit, the brake light goes off, and the voltmeter jumps up to 75% to get the battery back up to speed. Normally, when I first start it, the brake light is off. Then after it gets warm, it will pop on, then intermittent. Although sometimes it has been cold when I started it and the brake light was on. It seems like it may be heat related, but that is not for sure. So far, I have replaces the main 4 fusible links (4 because it is an 86, I understand other years have the big 5 that go out), and I have run the car with the ETACS unplugged. I have inspected the grounds and don't see any issues. This same thing happened years ago when I would pull the E brake, and I tried to diagnose it then, with no luck, so I just unplugged the E brake sensor. It worked fine for years, but now the problem is back even without the E brake plugged in. I looked at the wiring diagram, and the E brake sensor runs directly int to ETACS, so I immediately eliminated that as the culprit. I have not tested the alt yet, but it works great when it is all good. Could it be an intermittent issue with the alt, and would testing it even find the problem, considering it is random? I am at a loss. I appreciate the ignition advice, but after reading the post and the related posts, it doesn't seem like it is the same issue. because of the intermittant aspect to it. It seems like something may be grounding out somewhere, but is there a way to isolate it? Could a well equipped shop find a fault like this without tearing everything apart?
-
Brake light comes on at random times. Checked the fluid and float, both are fine, float is on top. There is no rhyme or reason as to when the light comes on, not like I hit a bump or steer or anything, I have disconnected the Ebrake connector to eliminate that as the issue. Completely random. When it does come on, the alt needle will start sweeping from 25 to 75%, based on engine RPM. Then the light will randomly turn off, after a minute, or 10 minutes or more, and the charge needle is back steady at 50%. ETAC? Bad ground? I am at a loss. Any ideas?
-
Yeah I am keeping my fingers crossed on the bearings being OK. That would be way beyond my mechanical and financial ability at this point. I really appreciate all the help on this Kev, thanks.
-
I am getting ready to put the car on the lift this weekend. I have a few questions. As far as the plan, I will remove the drive shaft, remove the TT, then the pinion nut, washer and pull the coupling (which I will mark the relation to the shaft) with a 3 jaw puller. Then the seal, using a sharp screwdriver or similar device. lube the new seal, and put it in, and reassemble. My questions are 1- is this corrrect? 2- When the car is on the lift, I don't expect that the Ebrake will hold. Is there a good way to stop the wheels from spinning when it is on the lift? 3- what can I use to press the seal in considering that the pinion shaft will be sticking out through it? Am I missing anything else? Thanks
-
Thanks for the replies. The reason I am doing this is because the gear lube is leaking out the vent hole in the torque tube. I have been trying to keep it full, but it is getting to be to much of a leak. I will most likely have it done at a rear end shop, but I wanted to get some estimates first.
-
So I have decided that replacing the pinion seal may be a bit too big of a job for me. I don't like admitting that, but I don't want to mess up the job. So I started getting estimates. Went to Pep Boys. 2 hours labor at 109 per hour, unless the also have to remove the crush sleeve, which is another 2 hrs. What are the odds they will need to remove the crush sleeve? And why don't i see this part listed in the parts manual? Thanks
-
So It seems the National P/N 224570 pinion seal is impossible to find but it cross references to a Timken 224570 which is available. This and the nut should be all the parts I need right?