Jimbotsi

Gotcha, I have a ton of stuff going on in the next couple weeks including getting that car de-winterized. I'll see if I can get it out and ready by next weekend but that's a longshot. I'll let you know when it's all ready to go and I have some time to meet up.

Are you northern or southern? I'm 10 mins from Philly. I wouldn't be able to meet for a few weeks tho since my car is in storage and I have to get it out and give it a look over etc.

Break it in the way you plan to drive it, after the first oil change. When I rebuilt mine I left it at stock boost levels from the git go, it's a fun car to me -- not a drag/ track car. I've seen lots of guys who plan to drag/ track their car just fire it up, change the oil and then rip it to redline. Some will tell you to take it easy rev to 4-5k and let off the gas and let the motor slow you down to break in the rings, that's kinda what I did -- take it as you will.

The way I understand the reasoning that the coupler is rubber, is in the chance you are hit/ or hit something from the front driver side that it will break away. if it's welded then the steering column could be pushed into your face. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.

If you're going MPI but have no experience or never tuned an aftermarket ecu this is the most user friendly/ easiest system available. Turn key and drive

Bump and OBO

Didn't get a chance to look this weekend but I'm 90% sure I have one. Bear with me till I get a chance to search it out.

I might have this, I'll look and get back to you tomorrow

What size is the downpipe #15. I may be interested depending on size.

Pm'ed ya

I have a set of 7's and 8's sitting in the garage I'd let go for $200. Bout 15 mins from Camden to, near Woodbury

standalone ecu like megasquirt or haltech. doesn't require a laptop to tune --> www.sdsefi.com

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I'll take the crank scraper -#65- if you'll ship it to 08086 NJ for $65.

Thanks for the offer but picked these up yesterday -- case closed.