by_reQUEST

I have actually experienced much higher gains with more overlap in higher HP situations. I have yet to dig into my Conquest yet but when I was building Taurus SHO's for a living the high duration high overlap cams made a LOT more power over all when supercharged. I wouldn't recommend it for someone who is planning on running like 300 hp or so but if you are trying to squeeze out every drop id go with the bigger one. I want a high overlap/duration cam that is roller....then I would be set

I messed mine up I need the entire unit. Slipped out of my hands and broke apart. I would really really really prefer one with a clear nice lens and one that has been unmolested for a late model. I have an 89. I can buy or trade some NR auto black with red numerals gauge faces for it.....

damn and to think I gutted my clock to put the turbo timer in there......

I have three brand new AC Autotechnic S7 gauges for sale. I had ordered these 2 years ago and never opened the boxes, I am now ready for install and they are the chrome faced ones and I need the black faced ones. They look good just wont work with my interior as well. The gauges have a plain face and light up when the ignition is turned on, pretty cool me thinks- plus they are accurate gauges. They have never been used and are brand new. I have : 1) Boost gauge 2) Oil Pressure Gauge 3) Water Temp Gauge $50 each. *I cant get on here at work so you will have to email me for faster response!* fastsho1@mindspring.com http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y134/shawnp92sho/pic030707_3.jpg

I will take one with 3 holes please

Yeah I actually brought this up abotu 7 months ago... there would be a ton of weight saved if we replaced those huge front and rear K frame with tubular ones.....

That was a pretty rough job getting to everything. I guess I am going to go ahead and replace all of the vacuum lines while I am there.... I dont want to do this again...much rougher than american cars LOL

I have done it several times before just not on this car

yeah I dont have a manual, I keep meaning to buy one but I keep forgetting. ok I will check it out...

I didnt think it should go in VM becasue I am not asking how to remove teh heater core really.....just the dash pad. I have al of the lower screws out, ,the entire console is out ofthe car, the gauge cluster is outof the car...but its not budging...

So apparently I have the last aftermarket heater core in the country fomr any of our vendros here at work. I am having a hell of a time getting the main dash pad off.... I removed all of the lower screws, console gauge cluster, the two bolts behind the side defrost vents..... what else..i dont want to tear up a perfect dash pad becasue I was too proud to ask....

that would rock... I bet if they weigh as much as I think they do... I bet we could shave off 50lbs or more easily.......

iw as thinking about how I could make the car a bit more nimble or even light on its feet.... There has to be a decent amount of weight to be lost in replacing the front K member with a tubular one... and especially the rear one... I know it would all be custom made but I have a guy who could do it no problem and he is not all that expensive ( he builds pro stock cars as well) I wonder how much weight could be saved any one have any weight figures for either or both of those frames?

wouldnt it be great to have a list of vendors and websites for easy referral? I can never find the individual websites and when I do it takes waaayy too much time Shawn

sorry been locked off of this site for awhile...... iw ill get the info and post it