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Haltech Questions


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#1 daleper

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 12:16 PM

Trying to help out a buddy who doesn't want to pay tons of money to Top End. He's got a car that's been passed around a lil. It's an 88 that's had most of the TEP MPI conversion done to it and is mostly wired up with a haltech Sprint 500 set up distributor less. It's got a 60-2 crank trigger and home is wired to the stock dizzy. I'm getting a spark on #1 just as it starts cranking and then no more. The miss counter on the haltech seems to go up one every quarter second or so therefore I know it's not seeing something it expects. Any help troubleshooting would be amazing. Thanks.

...Dave





#2 Funky Phil

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 01:14 PM

Laptop connected?
Is it reading rpm?

Is it only 1 spark when you first click it over?
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#3 daleper

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 01:21 PM

Yes, I've got a laptop hooked to it. Reading rpm. Seeing both home and trigger counts go up as it cranks. Using a timing light to watch spark. Sometimes one, sometimes several at once just as it starts turning then nothing after that.

#4 daleper

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 02:15 PM

Getting 127 triggers per home. Have played with it set to both 60-2+1 and 60-2+4. Both settings produce similar results and run up the miss counter.

#5 scott87star

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 08:27 PM

The "+" would refer to a cam trigger, does it have one?  If not that's the problem, it's expecting to see it.
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#6 daleper

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Posted 09 April 2018 - 11:57 PM

It's using the stock dizzy as a cam trigger. Not ideal but supposed to be possible

#7 scott87star

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 08:15 AM

The stock dizzy is going to give you four signals per cam revolution so 60-2+1 is incorrect, 60-2+4 stands a chance but it must not be working the way the ECU want to see it.  Do you need a cam signal?  I'd just use the 60-2 crank trigger and be done.
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#8 daleper

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Posted 10 April 2018 - 06:19 PM

Trying to track down a scope to see what it's providing. Thought a +4 was correct. Running 4 LS coils so unfortunately need the cam signal. Unless I swich over to waste spark and fire them in pairs.

#9 scott87star

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 09:01 AM

I'm guessing the +4 signal coming from the cam isn't evenly spaced every 360 crank degrees like the signal you get from a Starquest dizzy, it essentially can't be because if it were there still isn't enough information to tell the ECU when cylinder #1 comes up.

Quote

With the addition of 4 tooth pattern on the Home signal on the cam, this trigger enables the support of full sequential injection and direct fire multi-coil ignition.
These are commonly found on European cars such as Audi, BMW, Porsche, Volkswagon as well as the GM Alloytec V6.

That's out of the Haltech Sprint 500 help menu for the trigger types.  The missing teeth on the crank signal tell the ECU which pistons are coming up, i.e. 1 & 4 are approaching TDC typically shortly after the missing teeth pass by, then 180 crank degrees later 2&3, so it can fire waste spark just off the crank trigger.  To tell the ECU when #1 is on the compression stroke you need either a single cam trigger or unevenly spaced multiple triggers.  Toyota does three unevenly spaced cam triggers on the VVTi motors, I am familiar with setting those up (JZ, UZ, GZ).
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#10 daleper

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 01:48 PM

Seems like it says that a +4 trigger will work. Hopefully the halech guys can help me out with that part. Worst case, maybe I'll have to cut 3 of the fly bars off and turn it into a single trigger.

#11 scott87star

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 07:18 PM

Quote

Worst case, maybe I'll have to cut 3 of the fly bars off and turn it into a single trigger.

I've tried.  Not sure what you mean by "fly bar" but there are three posts on the stator, that's your first clue, and four nubs on the dizzy shaft passing by the stator posts.  You get the A/C signal each time a nub passes a post and the signal is amplified X3 since there are three posts.  Cutting off two posts just makes the signal weaker, you still get four evenly spaced signals with one cam revolution.  Grinding a nub required perfection I could not attain, any ripple left behind causes a weak signal that can screw up the cam trigger.  I even tried mating a DSM CAS top to a starquest base dizzy years back and just couldn't get the runout smooth enough, it wasn't until the discovery of the mighty max/galant/magna optical distributor that I made a decent cam trigger.  That only requires a 1/4" spacer between the dizzy base and head to make it work perfectly for a cam and "crank" sensor with the use of a Yoshifab optical disk.

Quote

Seems like it says that a +4 trigger will work.

Without an uneven spacing the ECU still doesn't know when each cylinder is coming to TDC compression stroke, you're stuck with even spacing with a starquest dizzy.
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#12 daleper

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Posted 11 April 2018 - 10:10 PM

Ah. Makes sense. I'll give the haltech guys a chance while I shop for a new dizzy but expect to be replacing it. Is the magna dizzy a +4 signal as well or a single event? Thanks for the help understanding it all.




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