Caliber308 Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 (edited) 1. Change the Air Filter.2. Change the Fuel Filters.( information can be found in the website below).3. Check the sensors, The procedures are in the Factory Service Manual here: http://www.starquestgarage.com 4. Change the Fuel Injector Clips. That will get you started to having a good running Starquest. Modifications come later. If it doesn't run correctly from the get go, There is no reason to modify it at this time I am sure other members will have something to contribute to this post that I might have missed. Good Luck with your Starquest, Bill Edited July 20, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hachi_destroyer Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Good advice, definitely make it run right before making it run fast. There are a couple areas that I think are the weak links in the car and taking care of them will go a long way as far as reliability, on top of what's listed. 1. The Stock Alternator is Crap. These days mostly only rebuilds are available. Pick up a GM alternator conversion kit, a must-have. Star Orion GM Alternator 2. Check the Vacuum Advance Module, or better yet just replace it for insurance. If it's corroded, then the rubber inside is probably old as hell. 3. Clean up the connections/terminals at the fusible link block. This really goes for all connections. If you can't pull the fusible links off without the connectors ripping off, replace them. That's good to start! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DMNDSTAR87 Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 I would add plugs(ngk#7031) and fuel pump/pressure to the list.just my 2.6 centsgig out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 And a BIG butt TURBO!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Wires, Rotor, Dizzy cap. as well as those NGK #7031 plugs. Get NGK wires set with the lifetime warranty. Change them for free once a year. Check/replace the stock coil. Even on a bone stock system, get the MSD Blaster 2 or Bosch Red coil. Better idle. Change. The. Oil. I recommend the PureOne Part No. PL10193 and Castrol GTX 10w-30, but just use good name brand oil, and change it EVERY 3000 MILES, even if the label says otherwise.Fix all vacuum leaks. Trust me, it makes a difference in how the car runs. Check your turbo for shaft play, even if it isn't smoking. Cheers,James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Contsi Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 87 TSi - I'm about to do a TB rebuild, what do I use for injector clips other than wht is on there (stock)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 87 TSi - I'm about to do a TB rebuild, what do I use for injector clips other than wht is on there (stock)? Check with Dad on this site. He sells them. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 Basic maintenance is idea, and the below tests help you with what is hidden from sight. Check compression ratio's of each cylinder.This will help you determine the sealing condition of your piston rings and valve train(This can be done the same time you are checking or replacing your spark plugs)http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/comp/engines/cylindercomptest.html Have a cooling system test performed.This will help determine if you have leaks in in your cooling system and were they might be.(check the radiator cap at this time also.)http://www.cdxetextbook.com/engines/cool/coolingSystem/coolingpressure.html Have a cylinder leak down test performed.This test will help you determine the integrity of your gaskets and seals, where as the cooling system may not leak past the head gasket,but cylinder pressure may leak into the cooling system.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester If your car has more than 60,000 miles and you do not know if the timing chain and guides have been replaced.It is suggested you do so. Alot of cars have had their timing chain replaced at 60k but are neglected at the 120k mark. It is a good idea as Caliber308 suggested to secure a service manual in electronic media or print formused ones can be found on eBay or purchased directly from HELM INC.http://www.helminc.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSI_Guido Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) 87 TSi - I'm about to do a TB rebuild, what do I use for injector clips other than wht is on there (stock)? Here are some part #s for the fuel inj connectors. All are the same connectors, just different manufacturers...in some cases. NAPA-CRB: 2-17427; Borg Warner: 27427; Beck Arnley: 158-0017. These are the replacement connectors, not just the clips. I had matched the clips, however, it was years ago and did not write the number down. My connectors where OE, corroded and brittle, so I replaced them. I'm sure Dad has the clips alone, as 308 commented. I also have some #s for the mixing unit kit...CarQuest: 1529; GP Sorenson: 96-543; Borg Warner: 10887; NAPA Echlin: 2-1736A and Mitsu o-ring set: MD61 4116. I have not looked at these in years, so I do not remember the contents. I do remember having to use the MD61 4116 Mitsu kit plus another Mitsu kit, when we rebuilt our TBs. All good advise...Well, most of it! My 2.6 cents...DON'T LET YOUR CAR SIT! Always more wrong than when you left it! Take Care & Keep 'em Spooled! FrankBTW: Fuze mentioned the vacuum adv, good advise, often overlooked. The Borg Warner part number is V608. Hope all these numbers are still good, it's been years! Edited July 23, 2011 by TSI_Guido Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 $10-Replace all crusty dry vacuum lines its cheap to do and kills many gremlins under the hood.. FREE-Clean all the grounds...especially under the battery tray and under the tbi....an extra ground strap off the bottom bolt of the alternator to the motor mount is also worth it. $8-OEM Mitsubishi PCV valve is a must...no felpro at VatoZone won't cut it.. FREE-Gut them cats, these cars are 20+ years old and they are a huge bottle neck leading to poor acceleration, poor mpgs.. $50-$75-Cooling system should be in tip top shape get that old rad rodded or swapped...keep it cool and you keep the headgasket in one piece.. FREE-Timing should be verified periodically... FREE-Valve lash should be adjusted every 10k-15k.... $80-$250-Upgraded Alternator is always a good idea, especially if your car runs like doodoo at night with headlights on and your favorite Vanilla Ice track blaring from your new big amp system.. FREE- All electrical plug ins should have a dab of deilectric grease on them, especially in wet climates...kill those gremlins.. RUN THE HIGHEST OCTANE YOU CAN GET!!! Filling a 20 gallon tank you think going High Test will cost a fortune...but typically is a .10 cent difference per gallon x 20 thats only $2.00 bucks which is cheap insurance against detonation and a better running starquest...also you get better mpgs too so you get those 2 bucks back in short order.. FREE- Let the engine warm up before you go driving and boosting...Let it idle for atleast a minute before shutting it down a turbo can spin at 10x what your rpm says if you shut it down after a hard run the oiling system stops feeding oil and coolant to the turbo she runs dry till she stops, results one dead turbo....and later one empty wallet FREE- LISTEN TO THE ABOVE ADVISE FROM ALL THESE LONGTIME OWNERS AND ENJOY YOUR STARQUEST!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 $10-Replace all crusty dry vacuum lines its cheap to do and kills many gremlins under the hood.. FREE-Clean all the grounds...especially under the battery tray and under the tbi....an extra ground strap off the bottom bolt of the alternator to the motor mount is also worth it. $8-OEM Mitsubishi PCV valve is a must...no felpro at VatoZone won't cut it.. FREE-Gut them cats, these cars are 20+ years old and they are a huge bottle neck leading to poor acceleration, poor mpgs.. $50-$75-Cooling system should be in tip top shape get that old rad rodded or swapped...keep it cool and you keep the headgasket in one piece.. FREE-Timing should be verified periodically... FREE-Valve lash should be adjusted every 10k-15k.... $80-$250-Upgraded Alternator is always a good idea, especially if your car runs like doodoo at night with headlights on and your favorite Vanilla Ice track blaring from your new big amp system.. FREE- All electrical plug ins should have a dab of deilectric grease on them, especially in wet climates...kill those gremlins.. RUN THE HIGHEST OCTANE YOU CAN GET!!! Filling a 20 gallon tank you think going High Test will cost a fortune...but typically is a .10 cent difference per gallon x 20 thats only $2.00 bucks which is cheap insurance against detonation and a better running starquest...also you get better mpgs too so you get those 2 bucks back in short order.. FREE- Let the engine warm up before you go driving and boosting...Let it idle for atleast a minute before shutting it down a turbo can spin at 10x what your rpm says if you shut it down after a hard run the oiling system stops feeding oil and coolant to the turbo she runs dry till she stops, results one dead turbo....and later one empty wallet FREE- LISTEN TO THE ABOVE ADVISE FROM ALL THESE LONGTIME OWNERS AND ENJOY YOUR STARQUEST!!!!!I can't stress these things enough. Vacuum lines, high octane, warm up, cooldown... these are the reasons I expect my friends turbo Maxima to be dead in short order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 I just went through the TB rebuild process (minus the shaft seals and injector cleaning ) and it has made a difference. It was a good time to replace those hoses under/behind the intake and clean/test the EGR valve too. As advised in threads and PQ's posts, I replaced the cone filter with a generic fuel filter as well. In my case the TB looked original and was obviously leaking fuel both at the intake and between the housing pieces. I've put about half a tank through it since and the mileage looks to have increased, but I'll do some actual calculations at fill-up to confirm. Also runs a good bit smoother and response is as good as it has been since I got ahold of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf88 Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Guys, after you have all the hard parts worked out.... Check the TPS/ISC adjustment, and follow the procedure TO THE LETTER. Take your time. If you don't understand it, get with me. This is a VITAL adjustment. Check the timing at the same time. I like to use both a light, and a handheld vacuum gauge, but the gauge doesn't work too well if you have a radical camshaft. These two adjustments are how you really fine-tune your car. Remember, the manual gives a range, because not every engine likes the same thing, what with production tolerances, and what have you. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Having the proper vacuum and timing make a big difference in the way the car runs. Obviously, your vacuum changes when you change cams, but by the time you get to that point, you should have a good understanding of your car and what it does and does not like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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