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ernielist

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About ernielist

  • Birthday 09/24/1967

Profile Information

  • Location
    Jacksonville, Florida
  • Gender
    Male

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  • Website URL
    http://

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    32073
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1989
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Fiji Blue
  • Interior Color
    Black-Gray
  • Status
    Restoring

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  1. I have a hardpipe from the mas to the turbo
  2. My IC pipes and all are good. The mas air sensor we used was off of a quest that is running and driving fine. Not to mention that the car idles fine on the secondary until it warms up, then when it warms up it runs like crap, if I kill the mas at this point it runs fine. If I idle it on the primary it runs like crap all the time even if I disconnect the mas. Im confused, I have tried another primary it ran a little better, had that primary cleaned and no luck still ran like crap. I just dont understand why the car runs great on the secondary with mas until warmup? I mean shouldnt it be running rich and fouling everything out? Why would it run great on the secondary with no mas and why would it run good on the secondary until warmup? I thought it was a bad mas too, but the other mas didn't work either then I figured the primary injector was shot. What are the procedures for checking the mas, I will meter it out just to be sure, but once again if it was mas, why would it idles great on the secondary and like crap on the primary even with the mas disconnected?
  3. When it was running on the secondary it only did it when it warmed up, but if I unplugged the mas it would stop. Now that I am running on the primary it runs crappy all the time, The FPR is brand new and it has been checked it is good. the cts has been checked and it is within norms I even bypassed it to double check. Any other ideas??
  4. i havent looked at em yet, i do know it runs better with a fresh set of plugs, but only for a short time
  5. My car has a bucking/surging problem throughout the rpm range, it also idles like crap. Heres what I have done to fix it: cap, rotor, plugs, wires, ignition coil fuel filters, checked strainers, checked fuel pump, new fpr, cleaned and flowed injectors, traded injectors for known good ones traded mas for known good unit, checked collant temp sensor, checked ISC, replaced vac hoses, cleaned relays and fusible links cleaned injector clips and associated sensor clips cleaned everything basically alt is putting out juice and batt is good. all IC hoses are connected and good vac advance tested and is good, I am receiving signal from the TBI to advance the vac timing is within limits A friend came over and told me I had the harness on the injectors wrong and I was idling off the secondary, we switched the harness and idles it on the primary it idles better on the secondary so we figured the primary was bad we swapped for a good primary which didnt fix the problem. The thing is when I was idling on the secondary and it started to idle like crap all I would have to do is disconnect my mas and the car would idle on the secondary just fine, can someone please tell me what could possibly be wrong with this car, I have checked everything. The timing is not off in the car because it ran pretty good when I got it and the problem has been getting progressively worse and I am about to lose my mind because I have checked everything and done everything that was recommended and put the recommended parts in the car and it still doesnt run. Help or come buy it.
  6. Yes the MAS could very well be making the problem.
  7. The dash cluster appears to be in VGC, I have no way to plug it in to test it as I have analog gauges, if anyone knows hot to test it let me know. I need a primary injector if someone would like to work a trade perhaps.
  8. I have a ac compressor and a technica dash cluster if anyone has a need for em.
  9. In relation to the mods we would mostly be doing to our cars however very seldom. While the loss through the intercooler is proportional to the flow (CFM) squared, unlikely the change will be of a magnitude that requires a bigger intercooler. If dramatic changes in flow are created, say 50%, then the flow loss would increase by 1.5 squared, or 2.25, and that would prove excessive thus strongly suggesting a larger intercooler. You seem to know more about this so please correct this if its wrong?
  10. Been reading this thread and the info is great, but hos about this argument for air-to-air vs air-to-water? There is an overwhelming quantity of ambient air available to cool an air-to-air core relative to the charge air thru the inside of the intercooler (The iced down water intercooler is the only exception to this argument.). At just 60 mph, with a 300 bhp engine at full tilt, the ambient air available to cool the intercooler is about ten times the amount of charge air needed to make the 300 hp. Whereas the water intercooler largely stores the heat in the water until off throttle allows a reverse exchange. Some heat is expelled from a front water cooler, but the temperature difference between the water and ambient air is not large enough to drive out much heat. Another way to view the situation is that ultimately the heat removed from the air charge must go into the atmosphere regardless of whether it's from an air intercooler or a water based intercooler. The problem with the water intercooler is that the heat has more barriers to cross to reach the atmosphere than the air intercooler. Like it or not, each barrier represents a resistance to the transfer of heat. The net result; more barriers, less heat transfer
  11. make sure you didn't put the wrong connector on the wrong injector and make sure the injectors are in the right slots. my primary is bad and its doing exactly what you are describing. I would ook at the injectors and check yer FPR witha might vac to see if its holding vacuum. If it is and you don't get a bunch of fuel coming out of the vac line on the bottom of it it should be good.
  12. Yea ernie, thanks again for coming out and checking out the car. I really appreciate it. Heres a lit fo what has been done with the car for everyone to peruse, if anyone else can think of any other maintenance type items I need to do on the car let me know: Cap and rotor replaced Ignition wires replaced All fuel filters replaced, strainers checked, gas tank checked, fuel pump checked. All intercooler hoses checked for cracks and tightness. Valve lash adjusted to .006 for intake and .009 for exhuast BSE kit complete JV Kit complete FPR replaced Plugs replaced with NGK BPRES-11 (think 11, whatever the ngk stuff is supposed to be for out cars) KN cleaned and oiled. Rag joint replaced Winshield fixing to be replaced. Ernie fixed my third brake light and rear wiper motor. Injectors cleaned and flowed Vac advance checked for proper functioning, distributor cleaned. Vac advance signal from TB checked and verified. Verified 10.5 psi of boost coming from turbo with mechanical gauge Shaft play checked in turbo, all good. Iginition coil replaced with new stocker (will upgrade to MSD once car is running right.) Cleaned all fusable links except for the main link which I will be replacing. Cleaned all relays under hood. Checked alt for good voltage and amperage. Removed ac compressor and associated belt. Repaired engine collant temp sensor connector and checked sensor for proper operation. Checked wastegate for proper operation with might vac. Oil and filter change Vac lines checked and replaced. Interior professionally cleaned I cant think of anything else at this time. If anyone can think of anything else I need to do let me know. Mods I am planning - 3 inch downpipe with associated exhuast Increase boost pressure from 10.5 to 15 psi. MSD coil 8mm wires Hardpipes for IC lines
  13. Any way to check on the peak psi efficiency of the 12a?
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