Mech

Just out of curiosity i sent an email to them a week ago asking how long the wait times were for the subframes, havent received a response yet.

The extension shaft cup splines, and the pinion coupler spline mesh together very precisly when they don't have wear. I pulled them out of my 88 140k miles on it, that was never beat on, and there is zero play.

Is the torque assembly the same for all widebodies 86-89? for example can i take the torque tube from an 86 and pop it into an 89 and vice versa? and all are the components the same/ interchangable? extension shaft, companion flange, bearing, etc Also, what grease are people using to grease the toque tube and the extension shaft to spline coupler/pinion coupler?

Tux, what diameter tubing is used for the subframe? And do you know the tubing thickness?

ive been looking at these, from researching, nitrile rubber is best for AC o rings... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W72GPCF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&psc=1

Does anyone know where to get AC compressor O rings? I will be converting my system to R134a. I bought the kit as listed by rock auto "four seasons 26764", but it did not have the correct size for the compressor. I referenced the four seasons part numbers from rock auto for the compressor on four seasons website, and it says it does not fit starion or conquest (except for 26764), and it also lists the incorrect O ring dimensions. i think the size I need is 24mm x 2.5 ( 19mm I.D 24mm O.D). I bought a kit from amazon, and it had a 20mm x 2, but the 2mm cross section is not "fat" enough , but a 4mm cross section is too fat, so it must be 3 or 2.5mm. Actually the stock black O ring is 2.5mm, and thats why there is a small gap on the machined O ring groove . So maybe 3mm will be too fat? I did find 3mm (18mm I.D) and 2.5mm (19 I.D) O rings on amazon, but they are not green in color, at least thats what shows in the pic, and they don't list anything about A/C.

where can I get front bump stops/dampers? part no. mb430570 (called "rubber helper" in the FSM ) Mine are not there, probably disintegrated a long time ago. everywhere that has them also includes the bellow/boot. I dont want to buy the boot, and the pics shown of the boots look nothing like the OEM boots. also the pics of the bump stop/dampers look nothing like the originals either.

Does anyone know if you have to cut the transmission tunnel to get a manaul R154 and 1uzfe to fit?

done that a few times 😪

it didnt meet the reserve, what did you end up buying it for if you dont mind me asking?

When boosting getting a really bad smell. i think the car is running too rich? Also sometimes tries to cut out hard around 4k rpms. 88 with 260k miles. All stock. Has new plugs, and injectors.

88 i picked up a few weeks ago. Non SHP rims, sticker doesnt show larger tire size, no adjustable shocks on the rear. But the fronts have the SHP shocks. Seems weird? This car is very original, no modifications whatsoever. Why would someone put the SHP shocks on the front only? Starquest detectives please help. 😁

So it ended up being a loose locking nut. Its the large nut that tightens the threaded shock body to the shock/spindle. Not sure what the technical name is. Jam locking nut i guess. It was NOT the two lower spring perch nuts. It was the large single nut below those. I had checked the nut, but only by hand, i didnt take the supplied D2 spanner to it, to check tightness. Anyways, the knock was intermitent, because the nut was only slightly loose. so when you turned the steering wheel, sometimes the nut tightened itself just enough to stop the knock, then sometimes loosened itself when turning. Putting that grease on the top hat was a mistake, because tons of grit and dirt got stuck to the grease over time. so i completely removed, dissasembled and cleaned the coilcovers on both sides, then renistalled. Long story short, the knocking noise was the threaded shock body banging around in the threaded piece that you weld to the spindle. When you screw the two together, theres a little play in it. you can rock the threaded shock body a little back and forth in the wlded spindle piece. When the locking nut gets tightened, that play goes away. Really, the threaded piece shoudl fit a little more snug then that. And i am very sure I had tightened that nut when i first installed these. This time I hit the locking nut spanner with a mallet to give an extra little tightness. Happy to say no more knocking.

found this old thread looks like size is 3mm or 1/8". Been looking at amazon and ebay. everywhere seems to be around 1 dollar a foot. I want to change all my vacuum lines. looking for black as I want to keep the stock look as much as possible.

sent you a PM