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I edited my original post to have this thread deleted. It has now been brought back. Here is the reason why I started this thread: A total of 8 cracks. This is the third time this manifold has cracked, this time it isnt gettting repaired.

 

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/6377/crack1o.jpg

 

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/5305/crack2.jpg

 

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/1051/crack3.jpg

 

http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/4862/crack4b.jpg

 

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/6104/crack5.jpg

 

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9204/crack6.jpg

 

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/5709/crack7.jpg

 

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1909/crack8.jpg

Edited by QuestFan
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send that back and get a refund. its not your fault he used crap materials. You shouldnt be out anything other than maybe the shipping fees IMO.

 

Yes you knew it was gonna crack but for it to happen this soon is ridiculous.

 

buy this and be done with it; http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1586.l2649

Edited by NotStock88
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Wow! Thank God you posted this, I was gonna order one! Sorry to hear about your problems man. I agree, you should be refunded the full amount minus shipping of course! Car looks killer by the way, good to see a highly modded TX car so close to me. I'm the only quest in Amarillo TX!
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Well I didnt know it was going to do all that crap untill the second time the WG cracked and I posted about it on here. (See link in original post) When I posted that, Chad talked to me in length about the fabrication of a manifold. He blew my mind. Edited by YoungQuestFan
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Chad needs to make headers again, or so that's what it sounds like to me!

 

He still does. He is my next option. Or get a stock manifold and have a WG flange welded to it and get a turbo flange adapter. Like Phinko did.

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before you go giving him a bad name, couple question.

 

why didnt you get it coated?

 

did you heat clyce it before hard boosting?

 

what were your EGT's ?

 

do you have a EGT gauge?

 

 

you just got done posting you needed help tuning your DD mpi car. To me, a poorly tuned car being driven is more to blame. I have the same manifold but have yet to run my car. But mine is coated and will be heat cylced.

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before you go giving him a bad name, couple question.

 

why didnt you get it coated?

 

did you heat clyce it before hard boosting?

 

what were your EGT's ?

 

do you have a EGT gauge?

 

 

you just got done posting you needed help tuning your DD mpi car. To me, a poorly tuned car being driven is more to blame. I have the same manifold but have yet to run my car. But mine is coated and will be heat cylced.

If it needs "heat cycled" and coated, sounds like it should have come with a disclaimer that states that. younquestfan, you hear of this at all?

 

I was waiting to see the "down the road" results.

Edited by NotStock88
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before you go giving him a bad name, couple question.

 

why didnt you get it coated?

 

did you heat clyce it before hard boosting?

 

what were your EGT's ?

 

do you have a EGT gauge?

 

 

you just got done posting you needed help tuning your DD mpi car. To me, a poorly tuned car being driven is more to blame. I have the same manifold but have yet to run my car. But mine is coated and will be heat cylced.

 

Did not heat cycle it. BUT, I only ran 5 psi to start out with untill the second time it cracked. My tune is not too lean in any way. It just needs a good fine tuning

 

I do not have an EGT gauge

 

Manifold never glowed red just to throw that out there

 

You run yours a good while and then come back and post. If you dont have any problems then I will admit that coating and maybe a better tune should have been in order.

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If it needs "heat cycled" and coated, sounds like it should have come with a disclaimer that states that. younquestfan, you hear of this at all? It doesnt matter how you spin it, crap material is crap material.

 

I was waiting to see the "down the road" results.

 

This is the same thing I was thinking. He was just selling them with no strict instruction to have it coated. The material used is crap, simple as that.

 

I did not hear any kind of special "instructions" when I bought it. Usually stuff like that will at least come with a paper with instructions like Burton does.

Edited by YoungQuestFan
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I do not have an EGT gauge

 

Manifold never glowed red just to throw that out there

 

You run yours a good while and then come back and post. If you dont have any problems then I will admit that coating and maybe a better tune should have been in order.

 

Vote #2 - run it for awhile and post back.

Edited by NotStock88
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i was one of the first people to get one, and was told to do both. crap steel or not, a poor tune with no way of knowing how hot the manifold was getting will kill any tube manifold. steel dont GLOW red hot like cast

heat cycling is for painted, or ceramic headers - should not matter on a non-painted or non-ceramic header

Edited by NotStock88
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i was one of the first people to get one, and was told to do both. crap steel or not, a poor tune with no way of knowing how hot the manifold was getting will kill any tube manifold. steel dont GLOW red hot like cast

 

My stainless steel log style manifold that maxboost87 made me used to GLOW red when hard boosting. It was stainless and lasted much MUCH longer than this mild steel manifold. The only reason the log manifold cracked is because I was boosting hard chasing down a kid who just tore through my buddy's neighborhood and then his front yard. The kid ran me off the road and I hit someone's culvert pipe going under their drive way. I jumped the car and got complete air and landed. Do you want pics?

 

EDIT: which is the whole reason I bought this SMB manifold.

Edited by YoungQuestFan
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Words From The Wise...

 

"In mild steel especialy, the HAZ is very soft cause it's fully anealed. it's not so much that it's anealed as it is that the strengths are different. disimilar hardnesses cause the undesired energy to all be focused on the weakest area. the motor vibrations are made worse with solid mounts but the manofold itsef still gets vibrated pretty good either way. I use a very hard poly mount on the pass side, and a soft stock mount on the drivers side. This limits motor movement quite a lot, but still keeps the vibration to a miminum.

 

In several stainess alloys and other "super alloys" the HAZ is actually stronger than the base metal and that too causes cracking at the base of the weld, just further away from the weld due to the difference in hardness. at twelvehundered degrees, mild steel is only one quarter it's room temp strength. the three sixteen grade I use is much stronger at that temp due to the high Molybdenum content, that's it's main benifit and what sets it apart from other similar alloys. also, 316L is an extra low carbon (ELC) grade of stainless that has only .03% carbon, making less carbon available to precipitate with the chromium, this means it's almost impossible to carburize and beome brittle over time.

 

Looks like he used the correct methods and weld temps, just the wrong material and flange placement. Looks like he's a good fabricator that just didn't do the metalurgy and structural research. I fell victom to the same mistake my first time arround too, and I had a few failures also, so I'm not doggign on him at all."

 

Source: Chad

Edited by YoungQuestFan
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I would see if he can make you another first and also seeing as the crack happened at the waste gate it could have been because of the way you have to wastegate dump route. No one should be all jumpy until we know all of the facts, this isn't like the mookeeh headers where they all cracked, you are the first and it could be an issolated case or operator/installer error.

 

 

Oh and I wouldn't refund you any money seeing as you had someone else weld on it.

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It is recommended that you have this header coated and S.M.B / Chris does state this to ANYONE thats buying this header to do so , why dont you contact him again and resolve this as i'm sure he will via Pm and WAY TO GO DOOD ! , i now see yet another vendor about to pull the plug on y'all . Edited by SOTTY
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It is recommended that you have this header coated and S.M.B / Chris does state this to ANYONE thats buying this header to do so , why dont you contact him again and resolve this as i'm sure he will via Pm and WAY TO GO DOOD ! , i now see yet another vendor about to pull the plug on y'all .

suppliers supplying products that fail this quickly deserve to have their plug pulled. While he obviously dint do this intentionally, he did make good and re-weld it for you to try to make it right the fist time you had an issue. I am not hating, by any means, the product looks wonderful and the quality and craftsmanship look good, he just didnt do as much research to know which metal to use. I bet he will make this right!

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