calling Burton or good body guys

[PDodson]

is this repairable or should I scrap it, i know you would prolly tell me to scrap it and want to buy it yourself and then try and fix it, I would like to try and fix this for my other quest

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/XLR8N/3DF9CD85-A9B3-4010-A52A-BCFAF7D1B127-6837-0000031FE0CB746B_zps105c7b9c.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/XLR8N/774075E7-818A-4F9D-A465-861F3D2451DE-6837-0000031FDEF5915C_zps6cbc29c4.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/XLR8N/22436737-751E-45FC-A3DB-90901D5953CB-6837-0000031FDA4A8AAB_zpsfda5ee30.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e394/XLR8N/7F0F796E-32F1-45DA-A748-32FF77E4EDC4-6837-0000031FDC809398_zps123a6450.jpg

[JohnnyWadd]

I say goop it up with glue and sticker bomb it and run!

[Komeuppance]

That's not bad at all, it's mostly there. A fiberglass repair kit to repair the structure on the backside and body filler on the front side. You can have it looking new in no time.

 

-Robert

[Burton]

That one is repairable, and I've fixed worse, but it would deffinately be a pretty tough job for a plastic repair newbie. Typically, it's usually a little easier for someone to start out fixing a few simple smaller cracks or even small voids, but hey, with the right info, materials and PATIENCE, anyone can fix that.

 

I have a whole chapter about it in my 21 chapter online body paint, and detailing manual over on 26liter.us....

 

http://www.26liter.us/forum/index.php/topic,1308.msg9354.html#msg9354

 

You use the fiberglass matting and resin to fill voids and support the backside. DO NOT use regular bodyfiller for contouring. The fiberglass on it's own has no flexibility and can possibly crack, but is strong. Regular bodyfiller is not only not flexible, but is not strong. Any repair area done in regular filler is sure to crack if it ever takes another hit. I've seen others use regular fillers, and even have myself back in the day. If you're careful with it, sometimes it works out fine, but personally, I'd rather spend a few bucks more for the proper urethane repair product than I would for a regular filler, and be able to retain the felxibility of the airdam.

 

Start with a quality 2 part urethane part repair product (3m Automix, Duramix, or Norton. There's even tubes of Bondo brand stuff at AutoZone that works well). Prep all your cracks and void edges. Use clamps or tape to try and hold the cracked and broken parts of the airdam together as good as possible and into as close to shape as it came from the factory. Use the urethane repair to fill all the cracks and any areas where there aren't voids and let it cure. This will help hold the airdam together in a good shape while you do the next step. Once it cures remove any clamps or tape you were using to hold it together. Then, use masking tape on the outside/cosmetic surface to try and make a surface that follows the countours of the airdam where the voids are. From the backside, apply fiberglass matting and resin where the voids are, making sure the matting and resin overlap onto the backside of the "good" plastic of the airdam surrounding the damaged areas. The tape you applied will give the fiberglass a "base" to hold it's shape until it's cured fully. You can also apply a few strips behind any cracks you urethaned in the first step, which will help support those repair areas from the backside. Once your fiberglass has cured, you can remove the tape that shaped the contour, and grind back any fiberglass that is sitting higher than where the plastic contour of the airdam should be. Also, make sure to grind the paint away from the plastic of the airdam around where your repair areas are, and grind down any beads of urethane from cracks you repaired that might be sitting high. You can then take the urethane repair stuff and spread it over the repair areas, making sure that the cosmetic surface is all urethane repair, and there's no fiberglass sticking thru. Also make sure the urethane repair stuff overlaps onto the "good" airdam plastic surrounding all your repair areas. At this point, you're basically using the urethane repair as a filler, similar to how you'd use bondo on a steel, or otherwise unflexible part. Spread it on, sand back the contours, add more urethane repair as needed for any low spots, sand to contour. Once you have the contour you want, and only urethane repair or the urethane plastic from the airdam are exposed, you can use a good urethane filler primer, give it a final sand then seal and paint it. Make sure to use only urethane primers and paints tho, as they retain flexibility... other primers and paints do not.

[scott87star]

You can do it P-dog!

[PDodson]

That one is repairable, and I've fixed worse, but it would deffinately be a pretty tough job for a plastic repair newbie. Typically, it's usually a little easier for someone to start out fixing a few simple smaller cracks or even small voids, but hey, with the right info, materials and PATIENCE, anyone can fix that.

 

I have a whole chapter about it in my 21 chapter online body paint, and detailing manual over on 26liter.us....

 

http://www.26liter.u...54.html#msg9354

 

You use the fiberglass matting and resin to fill voids and support the backside. DO NOT use regular bodyfiller for contouring. The fiberglass on it's own has no flexibility and can possibly crack, but is strong. Regular bodyfiller is not only not flexible, but is not strong. Any repair area done in regular filler is sure to crack if it ever takes another hit. I've seen others use regular fillers, and even have myself back in the day. If you're careful with it, sometimes it works out fine, but personally, I'd rather spend a few bucks more for the proper urethane repair product than I would for a regular filler, and be able to retain the felxibility of the airdam.

 

Start with a quality 2 part urethane part repair product (3m Automix, Duramix, or Norton. There's even tubes of Bondo brand stuff at AutoZone that works well). Prep all your cracks and void edges. Use clamps or tape to try and hold the cracked and broken parts of the airdam together as good as possible and into as close to shape as it came from the factory. Use the urethane repair to fill all the cracks and any areas where there aren't voids and let it cure. This will help hold the airdam together in a good shape while you do the next step. Once it cures remove any clamps or tape you were using to hold it together. Then, use masking tape on the outside/cosmetic surface to try and make a surface that follows the countours of the airdam where the voids are. From the backside, apply fiberglass matting and resin where the voids are, making sure the matting and resin overlap onto the backside of the "good" plastic of the airdam surrounding the damaged areas. The tape you applied will give the fiberglass a "base" to hold it's shape until it's cured fully. You can also apply a few strips behind any cracks you urethaned in the first step, which will help support those repair areas from the backside. Once your fiberglass has cured, you can remove the tape that shaped the contour, and grind back any fiberglass that is sitting higher than where the plastic contour of the airdam should be. Also, make sure to grind the paint away from the plastic of the airdam around where your repair areas are, and grind down any beads of urethane from cracks you repaired that might be sitting high. You can then take the urethane repair stuff and spread it over the repair areas, making sure that the cosmetic surface is all urethane repair, and there's no fiberglass sticking thru. Also make sure the urethane repair stuff overlaps onto the "good" airdam plastic surrounding all your repair areas. At this point, you're basically using the urethane repair as a filler, similar to how you'd use bondo on a steel, or otherwise unflexible part. Spread it on, sand back the contours, add more urethane repair as needed for any low spots, sand to contour. Once you have the contour you want, and only urethane repair or the urethane plastic from the airdam are exposed, you can use a good urethane filler primer, give it a final sand then seal and paint it. Make sure to use only urethane primers and paints tho, as they retain flexibility... other primers and paints do not.

 

so if i was to send this to you how much would you charge me to fix it, IF

[Burton]

Probably about $200. That's about $50 in materials and 7-10 hours of work

[Burton]

Oh, and if you decide not to fix it yourself and not to pay to have it fixed, let me know. I'd buy it for $75.

[BC_99]

Just a suggestion here, Sell it to Mark for the $75, add the money you would have paid someone to fix it or the money you wouldve spent on materials to fix it yourself and get in on Niko's GP. It helps the community and saves you time and you'll have a new part.

 

BC_99