TexasQuest Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 I'm going to be installing my wideband and electronic boost gauge/controller soon, awaiting posi tap wire splice connectors. Where is the best place to tap into for power? I was thinking a radio wire that only see's power with the key one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88-cnqst-tsi Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) get the constant and or "acc"/"on" power from under the steering column, its what my PO did and it works fine but you have to fish the wires through allot Edited September 2, 2013 by 88-cnqst-tsi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted September 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 I don't want constant power, just when the key is on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88-cnqst-tsi Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 then tap the "on" wire, if I remember correctly its the black with white stripe wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Easy, tap into one of the "key on" circuits on the fuse box. The radio one would be fine. Just pull out the fuse box and put a wire tap on the appropriate wire. It's the solution with the least amount of dis-assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted September 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Dang never thought of that ucw. Would it be ok to run both gauges off the same circuit from the fuse box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 If it were me I would go to a different one for each gauge. I'm sure it would be fine to hook both up to the same fuse thought. Take a volt meter and look for 12v when key is on only takes a few minutes to find a different power source if you don't wanna run them together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Dang never thought of that ucw. Would it be ok to run both gauges off the same circuit from the fuse box? You can run both on the same fuse. I am doing the same. The gauges don't use much power. Also tap the gauge light into the dimmer switch output. So they come on and dim just like the rest of the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted September 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 No need for a gauge light, completely digital. Thanks tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 No need for a gauge light, completely digital. Thanks tho. It has a dimmer function though right? My LC1 gets a wire from the dash lights and that triggers the gauge to dim the LCD display. I also ran a switch for the power wire to my gauge. That way on long trips I can turn that bright arse gauge off so it doesn't bother me at nite. Also attracts less cop attention that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Phil Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Were is it gonna be mounted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 If it were me I would go to a different one for each gauge. Take a volt meter and look for 12v when key is on Agreed. If you want to splice into the Fuse Block, use Fuse no.13 or 14. Both are IG1(Black/White wires) and are rated at 10 amps each. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 If it were me I would go to a different one for each gauge. I'm sure it would be fine to hook both up to the same fuse thought. Take a volt meter and look for 12v when key is on only takes a few minutes to find a different power source if you don't wanna run them together.Agreed. If you want to splice into the Fuse Block, use Fuse no.13 or 14. Both are IG1(Black/White wires) and are rated at 10 amps each. Bill The wire supplied for typical digital gauges is rated for about 1 amp. The gauge itself only draws a couple milliamps when on. There is plenty of buffer current capacity on any of the fuses in the fuse box to run several digital gauges. My LC1 is running on the #9 lighter fuse. The LC1 manual states it needs a minimum 5 amp fuse. Never blown a lighter fuse. The #9 lighter fuse is the best one to use. Especially if you never use the cig lighter to light a smoke. The FSM says the lighter is rated for 10 amps. If you never use it for more than a phone charger then there's plenty of power left for an instrament cluster full of digital gauges. My point is research the circuit you want to tap into before doing so. That will tell you if it can handle what you want to run. Don't just assume it can or can't handle your accessories. Fewer wire taps and connections means fewer potential electrical gremlins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 It's not a simple (or should not be done) by just tapping into key on power. In particular for your O2 heater. The 02 sensor should only be heating when car is in a run condition. If you have it wired to heat key on, then you risk heating it without the car running, it will be hot and can get hit with water vapor on start up and crack / ruin your 02 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 most cars use the fuel pump run feed to power heated 02's ,,that way they only see power when the engine is actually runningthe 02 heater draws such a small load it will not effect the fuel pump operation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted September 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 It has a dimmer function though right? My LC1 gets a wire from the dash lights and that triggers the gauge to dim the LCD display. I also ran a switch for the power wire to my gauge. That way on long trips I can turn that bright arse gauge off so it doesn't bother me at nite. Also attracts less cop attention that way. Not sure it has a dimmer function, haven't got it yet to read the directions. Phil they are both going into a pillar gauge pod. So the cig lighter only sees power with key on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 So the cig lighter only sees power with key on? Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) The wire supplied for typical digital gauges is rated for about 1 amp. The gauge itself only draws a couple milliamps when on. There is plenty of buffer current capacity on any of the fuses in the fuse box to run several digital gauges. My LC1 is running on the #9 lighter fuse. The LC1 manual states it needs a minimum 5 amp fuse. Never blown a lighter fuse. The #9 lighter fuse is the best one to use. Especially if you never use the cig lighter to light a smoke. The FSM says the lighter is rated for 10 amps. If you never use it for more than a phone charger then there's plenty of power left for an instrament cluster full of digital gauges. My point is research the circuit you want to tap into before doing so. That will tell you if it can handle what you want to run. Don't just assume it can or can't handle your accessories. Fewer wire taps and connections means fewer potential electrical gremlins.The wire supplied for typical digital gauges is rated for about 1 amp. The gauge itself only draws a couple milliamps when on. There is plenty of buffer current capacity on any of the fuses in the fuse box to run several digital gauges. My LC1 is running on the #9 lighter fuse. The LC1 manual states it needs a minimum 5 amp fuse. Never blown a lighter fuse. The #9 lighter fuse is the best one to use. Especially if you never use the cig lighter to light a smoke. The FSM says the lighter is rated for 10 amps. If you never use it for more than a phone charger then there's plenty of power left for an instrament cluster full of digital gauges. My point is research the circuit you want to tap into before doing so. That will tell you if it can handle what you want to run. Don't just assume it can or can't handle your accessories. Fewer wire taps and connections means fewer potential electrical gremlins. My Uego utilizes a 10 amp fuse off of a 10 to 18 volt power source. I have a problem with hooking up two gauges to a 10 amp Fuse Block when AEM tells you to run a separate 10 amp source. My suggestion for using the Fuse Block no. 13 and 14, and using only one of those per gauge makes sense. After all. They are only 10 amps each. Using a inline 10 amp fuse for each of your gauges is recommended. Fuse no. 9 is a Accessory fuse on the fuse block and is rated at 15 amps. So, if your Gauge is rated to 10 amps and a short occurs.....Your wires to your 10 amp rated gauge will reach 15 amps...And that is enough to fry your wires. Besides that. I gave the membership the fuse blocks to hook up to safely (Fuses no.13 and 14) Both are hooked up to the Black/ White wire off of Ignition Switch 1. ACC. wires (Fuse no.9) are not. So, if your sitting in a parking lot with your radio (Fuse no.11) on ACC at a stand still (via your Ignition Switch), your Wideband will also be on.....Makes sense to me Bill Edited September 3, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Innovative seperates them. The LC1 gets a 5 amp powersupply. The DB gauge gets another that only uses a few milliamps. Besides, only a wideband can draw 5-10 amps. Oil, temp, volts, pyro, etc etc only draw a few milliamps. How many widebands do you need on a 4 cyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) If you want your gauges to come on when your car does.....Use fuse nos.13 or 14. Most SQ owners utilize the Black/White ignition wire to hook up their gauges. Fuse Block nos.13 and 14 come off of the Black/White wires, Ignition1. I personally don't care how a member drains or fills their Manual Transmission. I just try to give practical advice according to the FSM to those who care about doing it the correct way. Bill Edited September 3, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) It's not a simple (or should not be done) by just tapping into key on power. In particular for your O2 heater. The 02 sensor should only be heating when car is in a run condition. If you have it wired to heat key on, then you risk heating it without the car running, it will be hot and can get hit with water vapor on start up and crack / ruin your 02 sensor. Using a 12 volt Switched Ignition source works for the Heated Three-Wire O-2. Black/White wire (switched) or the Blue wire (switched) spliced into the Window Wiper motor will work fine. Bill Edited September 3, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 (edited) Using a 12 volt Switched Ignition source works for the Heated Three-Wire O-2. Black/White wire (switched) or the Blue wire (switched) spliced into the Window Wiper motor will work fine. Bill Will work yes.... done correctly NO. To do it correct the O2 heater must only heat when in a run state. Otherwise you risk heating it while motor is stone cold... IE you turn ignition on but don't start, (heater starts heating) and then you start the car pushing moisture in the exaust and you can crack or ruin the then very hot 02 sensor (thermal shock). You of all people beating us over the head on doing stuff right should be the one fighting for this. Edited September 3, 2013 by jszucs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creakyjoints Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 BAZINGA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 While we're on this subject, were is a good place for a ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 While we're on this subject, were is a good place for a ground?I have my wideband grounded on the ECU ground, makes it more accurate I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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