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BoostedBimmer

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    195
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  • Location
    NJ
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    08805
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1988
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    Restoring

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  1. Im guessing its the clutch pedal return spring that's causing the issue?
  2. Ok, I'm not sure exactly what I should be looking for/diagnosing, but when I press down the clutch pedal all the way down and/or release it, it makes a springy noise (which I can also feel in my foot) at the point exactly when the clutch pedal is all the way down. It kind of feels like a rusty spring or something. Any idea what the problem may be? Do I need to grease anything? Other than the annoying noise it makes in-between shifts when I press the clutch pedal down, the car shifts fine and no slipping of the clutch....
  3. Ugh, I found the problem--There's actually a small crack on the body of the trans where all the fluid dumps out of
  4. Ok, I was wondering if there were any Honda experts here? My 95 Civic (auto trans) just dumped all its trans fluid out (leaving a huge pool of trans oil on my driveway). I checked the following so far of possible areas where it can leak, and these areas are all fine: Transmission cooler lines (all dry) Both driveshafts where they enter the trans (all dry) Dipstick (on tight) Transmission drain plug (dry) I didn't take off the torque converter cover yet, but it appears all dry behind this cover. Where could've all this trans oil dumped out from???
  5. That looks hideous on the fenders. I can definitely see some punk kid walking by snapping them off too...
  6. If you get HIDs, you need to get the H4 conversion housings that are projector-type, or else you'll have a ton of glare (and its annoying to on-coming drivers). Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/7x6-BLACK-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-HID-CONVERSION-HIGH-LOW-KIT-6000K-/311121789847?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item48704dc397&vxp=mtr But they look kind of ugly vs the normal H4 conversion housings....
  7. Ok, for a few times now, when I come to a light and idle, the RPMs would dip really low and the car would die out. I put it in neutral and the car starts right up then. This happened a few times now this week all the sudden. I can prevent this by pressing the gas pedal at the light to prevent the engine's rpms from dipping too low. The car has been idling perfect at around 800 RPM and the motor runs perfect with no problems. I did a full tune-up a few months ago too (new fuel filter, wires, distributor, plugs, etc.). The only engine problem I ever had was the infamous hiccup when boosting, and I replaced the vacuum advance and it solved the problem. Any ideas what the problem might be? Ignitor maybe? It's the original (metal) one. The motor also has the original (OEM) coil...
  8. Im not sure how to post pics, but can someone copy & paste the pics onto this thread before the ad disappears? Thanks...
  9. Here is the Craigslist ad (not mine). Awesome: http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/cto/4603182303.html
  10. Anyone have the (outer) sunroof gasket/seal that surrounds the sunroof in good shape? Mine is missing (and I know our cars dont really need it) but I don't really like the gap surrounding the sunroof glass without it. Thanks..
  11. I had EBC green pads on my other car which are very good, but they dont make them for starquests
  12. I got this stock-temperature one from NAPA, its a Tama brand and "made in Japan" with no issues: http://www.napaonlin...2904_0257826884
  13. Ok, im replacing my rear calipers, and that 10 x 22 mm clevis pin is frozen onto the end of the parking brake cable! I removed the cotter pin (obviously), and tried to even hammer that pin down (using a heavy duty screwdriver to get leverage), with no luck. Its rusted frozen to the end of the cable. I was thinking of resorting to the use of my dremel to cut the head off of the clevis pin to remove it, but I cant seem to find the same replacement clevis pin. What to do??
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