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$120 Aluminum Radiator Upgrade

S13 SR20

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#1 StarQuestMike

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 01:38 PM

I put in my new Aluminum Radiator finally yesterday. This is the one I bought:
Aluminum Radiator search ebay for "s13 radiator"
With these fans:
Fans search ebay for "12 inch cooling fan"

Works great! Noticed a big difference with it already.

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#2 89PalermoSHP

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 02:35 PM

looks nice
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Low-Temp Radiator Fan Sensors-$14-select the last option for shipping thru USPS and shipping is 95 cents!!! <----These work very well!!
My 89 Conquest
My custom hoses
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#3 TainterRacing

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 03:25 PM

Very Nice!!!

#4 automech01

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 04:29 PM

real nice and clean install can you show what you used for the bottom hose maybe a part number? any and all help would be great as i need to do one myself. thanks again

#5 importwarrior

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 08:40 PM

yes picsof the lower radiator connection to water pump please.

i would like to know if the radiator is a 3 row?

Edited by importwarrior, 07 November 2010 - 08:41 PM.

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#6 StarQuestMike

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 01:39 PM

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We used a 90 from the top hose, a piece of pipe from an auto parts store, and then the original bottom hose cut to fit. You could always weld on an angled pipe if you can weld aluminum but this was really easy to do, and it's not leaking so works for me.
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#7 Komeuppance

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 05:53 PM

EDIT: Here's some info on a better lower hose:

View PostSkullzaflare, on 23 February 2011 - 04:56 PM, said:

As I had issues finding a perfect lower hose, all my lower radiator hoses would rub the p/s pump
I wanted to say I found the perfect fit lower hose to use the ebay sr20 aluminum radiator
Its standard stock at your local advanceautoparts, part number "c71280" cost $12.99
Bends around ps pump and back over
No mods to radiator or water pump. Trimmed 1/4" off top of hose from where they run the plastic hanger
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The Curved Radiator Hose is suitable for the following vehicles:

	* 1994 Mazda B4000 (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X - OHV )
	* 1994 Mazda B4000 (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X - OHV )
	* 1994 Mazda Navajo DX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
	* 1994 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
	* 1993 Mazda Navajo DX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
	* 1993 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
	* 1992 Mazda Navajo DX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
	* 1992 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X )
	* 1991 Mazda Navajo LX (engine: 4.0L 4016CC V6 FI VIN: X - OHV )

LOL, in that pic it's on the top.

Anyway, take your old top radiator hose, cut the 90 degree section out of it.  Get a 1 1/2" O.D. exhaust pipe at the parts store as a coupler.  Attach the 90 degree section to the bottom outlet of the radiator, then insert the exhaust pipe, then use your original bottom radiator hose to complete the connection.

It would have worked better if we trimmed the exhaust pipe, but we weren't at my shop.  You will have to trim the orignal lower hose a bit.  For the new upper hose, a 12" radiator flex hose is perfect.

The radiator is the two row.


-Robert

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#8 StarQuestMike

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 10:22 PM

Thanks Robert, I'm way too lazy to type all that up.
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#9 mig8788

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 08:23 AM

Where did u buy this radiator and is it a direct replacement for our cars?

#10 StarQuestMike

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 10:01 AM

View Postmig8788, on 09 November 2010 - 08:23 AM, said:

Where did u buy this radiator and is it a direct replacement for our cars?

Please read the opening post. I don't even have mine bolted in, it fits in the car so snug it doesn't move.
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#11 mig8788

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 08:57 PM

Sorry about that buddy.  Thanks for the info.

#12 FijiPhil

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 02:40 PM

Looks nice! Mabye I missed it but how do you have the fans mounted? And Im assuming you just ran a toggle switch to them?
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#13 Komeuppance

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 03:07 PM

It's not secured to the car.  It's just "floating".  It's a very close fit on the frame rails, and is mainly stayed in place by the hoses.

Primary thermosensor removed from original rad, placed in EGR thermoswitch location.  And then wired to trigger both fan relays.

-Robert

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#14 Scotty Dont

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 03:15 PM

View PostKomeuppance, on 11 November 2010 - 03:07 PM, said:

It's not secured to the car. It's just "floating". It's a very close fit on the frame rails, and is mainly stayed in place by the hoses.

Primary thermosensor removed from original rad, placed in EGR thermoswitch location. And then wired to trigger both fan relays.

-Robert

We as a comunity have to stop promoting this, mine is exactly like you said but it runs all the time and will never turn off. If it is left like this for long I am sure the fans will burn out, using the secondary sensor may be a better option but the best way is to put the sensor on the cold side of the radiator before it enters the water pump.

my 2.6 cents anyway
John isn't the only one with a not real StarQuest!

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#15 StarQuestMike

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Posted 12 November 2010 - 02:45 AM

Fans are mounted to rad with zip ties. If you order the fans I linked they come with the zip ties to mount.
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#16 Komeuppance

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Posted 12 November 2010 - 03:58 AM

Woops, I thought he was asking how the radiator was mounted.

View PostScotty Dont, on 11 November 2010 - 03:15 PM, said:

We as a comunity have to stop promoting this, mine is exactly like you said but it runs all the time and will never turn off. If it is left like this for long I am sure the fans will burn out, using the secondary sensor may be a better option but the best way is to put the sensor on the cold side of the radiator before it enters the water pump.

my 2.6 cents anyway

Sounds like you need a new thermosensor, have you done tested it in hot water??

His fans turn off and on just fine.  I wouldn't have approved it if they stayed on all the time, that's for sure.

-Robert

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#17 Scotty Dont

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Posted 12 November 2010 - 11:45 AM

View PostKomeuppance, on 12 November 2010 - 03:58 AM, said:

Woops, I thought he was asking how the radiator was mounted.



Sounds like you need a new thermosensor, have you done tested it in hot water??

His fans turn off and on just fine. I wouldn't have approved it if they stayed on all the time, that's for sure.

-Robert


I don't see how that would be possible unless he was using a thermostat that closes at a temperature lower then 175* because that is were the thermo sensor shuts off. I run a 180* thermostat and it keeps the water temperature right at 180*, it never goes below that behind the thermostat (aka in the block/intake manifold)
John isn't the only one with a not real StarQuest!

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#18 StarQuestMike

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Posted 12 November 2010 - 01:47 PM

Well my set up works...sooooo...
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#19 19cturbo

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Posted 12 November 2010 - 11:30 PM

these work awesome! you can pick one up at your local parts store too! simple to use..


*edit*

guess the link would help..
lol
http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

Edited by 19cturbo, 13 November 2010 - 06:38 PM.

Being not real since I learned what was good for me

 Convette, on 21 February 2016 - 11:51 AM, said:

The only reason I'm doing it is basically... cause I can.

#20 Komeuppance

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Posted 13 November 2010 - 12:00 AM

Thermostats aren't an instant open/close valve. They begin to open near the specified temperature (180F in this case) and then should be fully open at the specified temperature.  This still allows coolant to pass to the radiator under 180F.

The primary thermosensor turns on at 180-190, and turns off at 172-189 according to the factory manual.  Add in some extra resistance for older thermosensors, and they will operate at a slightly higher range.

-Robert

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