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WOOHOO BLOWN HEAD GASKET


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#21 G54Bstore

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 07:20 AM

I'd do a compression test to further verify its the head. I had a turbo blow a seal and do the same thing you discribe with the smoke and black plugs.
Good luck with it buddy.
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#22 BC_99

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 09:57 AM

View PostIronside, on 09 March 2017 - 04:11 AM, said:

No coolant in the oil. My son was driving it and seen a lot of white smoke ( coolant I'm guessing) all the plugs were pig rich black.
I do need to do a leak down test before I pull it apart.

Gotcha. Leak down test will give you a little more information. But it will really be useful if you do pull it apart and the head gasket isn't the problem. The spark plugs bring it into question for me. If you were burning coolant, they shouldn't be black. That sounds like burning oil to me. Maybe valve stem seals? That would give low compression numbers. But then again, I am thousands of miles away and am only going off of my interpretation of your description. You might try calling Randy (Dad) and chat with him about it.  Good luck brother. Hope you are doing well.

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#23 psu_Crash

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 12:32 PM

First blown head gasket? Damn, I thought we all popped one right away when first buying a SQ. Then learned from it lol
I'd say you've had a great run! Now get it fixed ;)
On the cracked block subject, I've cracked 2 of them in 19 years. Both were on the exhaust side and between the studs and oil/coolant passages.

Edited by psu_Crash, 09 March 2017 - 12:32 PM.

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#24 Ironside

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 02:31 PM

I'm hoping its just a head gasket. I don't have a lot of miles on this build. Less then 6k on rebuild and new head. Rebuilt turbo also. I'm going to do a leak down test next since there is only 50 psi on the back two cylinders. I'm thinking the HG is blown between the cylinders ( hope its not a cracked block).

Going to put back cylinder (closest to fire wall )  at TDC, pressure up that cylinder with 100 psi and listen for air in the spark plug hole next to it.
Its got to be going either to next cylinder, coolant, exhaust or intake valve, or past the rings ( I'll check dip stick hole for rings).

I just hope its not the block or rings. If so hello 2jz!
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#25 Chad

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 02:45 PM

Best to do that test bottom dead center.  At 100 psi of air, you have about 1000 pounds of force on the piston, you don't want to chance it moving suddenly.  It's a good test to do though.

#26 IntercooledFlatty

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 03:30 PM

did i hear 2JZ ? :o




























:P  ;)  git you sum dood :D
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#27 Ironside

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 03:43 PM

Lol Harry.
Thanks Chad, that could cause some damage.
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#28 Turbo Cary

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 05:05 PM

I had a turbo manifold crack on #1 cylinder and it burned a valve. Ended up with black plugs due to the hard misfire in the engine. Like BC said, do a leak down test. If you have 0 leak down, good compression, and no oil or coolant mix then it is most likely not a head issue.

#29 Fuze

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 08:15 AM

View PostIronside, on 08 March 2017 - 08:00 PM, said:

You think the felpro is better then the metal head gasket? I'm running arp studs.
Yep. I had the AJUSA metal one and it leaked coolant on me in a couple months. Replaced with the good FelPro, same setup, and it's still going strong for years. Just my preference.

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#30 Blackmount

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:05 AM

Did you have your head Machined before install? even if bought from someone who said it was, it is important to assume they it hasn't been milled or has been sitting in terrible conditions for an extended amount of time. It may seal fine, but be quick to blow with light detonation, or high boost.

Metal Head gaskets are so picky about a True Surface, and even with a Composite or "Squishy" Gasket, can fail easily from Knock.

Had that problem on a car that is extremely difficult to blow headgaskets using a squishy head gasket.

Had the Heads milled, put a MLS on it with stock head bolts. Never looked back.

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Based on your compression numbers though, That would have to be one hell of a blown head gasket.

The car posted above all 6 cylinders still measured within 8 PSI of eachother at 150-160ish PSI But the machine shop found the Valve guides were done very poorly, and there was alot of evidence of leaked compression around the seats on the valves.

You may have a much bigger problem given your compression numbers, but also keep in mind I never saw coolant in the oil in this car after about a 1000 miles of the symptoms. Car would just load up the cooling system with compression under high load and Force it out the reservoir. It all depends where the Headgasket blows, and if it reseals during low load/idle/off

Edited by Blackmount, 23 March 2017 - 10:13 AM.


#31 Skullzaflare

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:14 AM

View PostBlackmount, on 23 March 2017 - 10:05 AM, said:

Did you have your head Machined before install? even if bought from someone who said it was, it is important to assume they it hasn't been milled or has been sitting in terrible conditions for an extended amount of time. It may seal fine, but be quick to blow with light detonation, or high boost.

Metal Head gaskets are so picky about a True Surface, and even with a Composite or "Squishy" Gasket, can fail easily from Knock.

Had that problem on a car that is extremely difficult to blow headgaskets using a squishy head gasket.

Had the Heads milled, put a MLS on it with stock head bolts. Never looked back.







Based on your compression numbers though, That would have to be one hell of a blown head gasket.

The car posted above all 6 cylinders still measured within 8 PSI of eachother at 150-160ish PSI But the machine shop found the Valve guides were done very poorly, and there was alot of evidence of leaked compression around the seats on the valves.

You may have a much bigger problem given your compression numbers, but also keep in mind I never saw coolant in the oil in this car after about a 1000 miles of the symptoms. Car would just load up the cooling system with compression under high load and Force it out the reservoir. It all depends where the Headgasket blows, and if it reseals during low load/idle/off
he installed a NEW head, so i doubt he had it machined lol
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#32 jonboyb

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:18 AM

The only HG I've ever blown on a SQ (knocks wood) went between 2 and 3.  Compression numbers were like 130-40-40-130
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#33 Blackmount

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:19 AM

View PostSkullzaflare, on 23 March 2017 - 10:14 AM, said:

he installed a NEW head, so i doubt he had it machined lol

That was my thinking too, It's easy to say "Oh it's new why would I need to Machine it." But alot of the new heads I have been looking for the at for the G54B seem to be from no name companies with questionable hardware that have been sitting on shelves for X Time. It is important to have them double checked to be true. My Machinist is very good, and he charges about $30 a head to mill them. $30 bucks is great insurance.

#34 Ironside

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:10 PM

I can't remember if it was machined or not. It was new, put in SS valves. I still haven't pulled the head yet, been working a lot lately. Hope to get it pulled this weekend. I need to get signed up on image shack so I can post some pictures when pulled. I'll be sure a check it when its off.
  I'm going to see whats going on with it before I order parts.
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#35 Ironside

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Posted 29 March 2017 - 02:00 PM

Just pulled the head and looks good. Talked with Randy today too. I've got a few more things to check. It's got to be rings, block or valves.
Going to follow Randy's advice on a few things. I should have done the leak down test before pulling the head as posted. Wish me luck.
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#36 Funky Phil

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:37 AM

Just put the other head on and do a comp test again folled by a leakdown maybe

Edited by Funky Phil, 30 March 2017 - 09:37 AM.

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#37 Ironside

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 07:54 PM

OK, pulled the head and the gasket is perfect. Pulled the cam, flipped the head and leveled it, poured diesel in the domes and its holding like a rock.
Poured diesel on the pistons and the back two (the same two I had low compression in) drained faster then the front.

I guess the next step is to pull a piston and inspect.

Any suggestions?
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#38 Blackmount

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Posted 01 May 2017 - 12:51 PM

Cylinders tend to mishape, oval, egg, whatever you want to hear... depending on where the piston is in it's stroke may cause it to drain slower or faster... Could be as simple as worn rings.




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