86TSiGuy

The overdrive is meant to save you fuel but only when cruising. Engaging the overdrive for "spirited" or stop and go driving is not advised.

If you know the name of the company you can search for the msds sheet on the product and that should give you the methanol (methyl hydrate) content. You also have to remember that an ideal 50/50 mix is measured by weight not volume. H2O weighs roughly 1.3 times that of methanol. So really you need 1.3:1 methanol:water. You could buy the $1.99 stuff and add about two bottles of red or yellow HEET. This would come close to 50/50. You'll have to compare for yourself. Personally I buy cheap (<$3.00 CDN) -45'C stuff and mix it with a 500ml bottle of pure methyl hydrate. This costs about $7.00 CDN after taxes and lasts me about a month. Of course my little 2.2 only runs a single 2gph injector @ 150psi triggered @ 2psi.

Detergents and glycol additives will foam quickly when the bottle is shaken and take considerable time for the suds to dissipate. Without detergent the foam will redistribute quickly. Also -20'F fluid isn't 40% meth it's much less. I have to buy -40'C or better to get near 40% meth. Also beware the dye can clog injector jets long term.

What turbo did you install on the car? It's always wise to go back over any mods you've done when problems appear soon after. It is possible the new turbo is simply pushing too much air for your fuel system to support. What's the boost at, and how are you controlling it?

Let's start with the basics... What year and make is the quest? How many miles? What has been modified on the car? What is "shots fiers"? Do you mean it knocks, bucks, stalls, bursts into flames? Immediate problems with adding a larger turbo to an otherwise stock quest include; Fuel supply inadequate, Timing incorrect, Unavailable spark (blow-out, or faulty parts), overboosting, fuel cut limiter. I'm sure if you can help us understand the details you will find your problem. Cheers

I'm pretty sure that's an early garret probably from an old Chrysler 2.2. Not a bad turbo actually, spools pretty fast pushes 15-16psi no problem. If it's a 3-bolt flange it's a Chrysler. FYI The Mitsubishi turbo's Chrysler used on the 2.2/25 T1 cars was 14 series I believe. I remember they are a lot bigger than our 12 series.

To be honest both have been done. Similar power can be had at the strip, as F.I.'s advantage over Carb. technology diminishes at WOT. Where you will see a difference is in daily drive-ability, fuel economy etc. The rich/lean issue with carb's is easily remedied by tuning with the jets and fuel pressure, remember a rising rate regulator can still be employed. Personally I would only go Carb if I was building a NA engine. I have an 86' Flatty in Michigan that's going under the knife in the spring. I have a Carb manifold that I'm going to mount an Ogura SC to, and a Montero header, should be fun. Good luck on your decision, ask lot's of questions.

A new block would be the most simple solution.

When you say "timing", do you mean ignition advance/retard or timing components. Because cam off a tooth is the first thing that comes to mind. Just my 2cc's...

Did you ever get the trigger turned up? Mine will adjust between 2-6psi and I only run 9psi max now, 12 after I install the new ECU. I chose my pump specifically from DO because it's a 250psi with a 150 switch. So with the 2 smallest nozzles and the two pump settings I have four levels of injection to work with. So I figure I will start with the largest on 250 and work backwards until the cars stops bogging at activation. I'm not too worried about spool time because I have the cam advanced so drastically, my peak power is around 4500rpm. Plus the distance between turbo and manifold is all of maybe 6" so the T3 comes on quick as it is. I'm curious about what gain I'll get without adding timing or boost. I want to keep the car capable of running of spray on the same tune, so that if I ever get stuck everything is safe. A tiny stock fmic on my set-up is proven good for about 25hp, and this injection will be more efficient than that cooler. At the very least it should help keep my fuel from boiling in my rail. Also stay away from any wiper fluid that isn't blue, as well as look for any mention of glycol or soap additives. These will create small foam bubbles on the surface if you shake the bottle, and will eventually lead to engine deposits. Other than that run it, and see what happens. The only side effect internally from using water injection is clean combustion chambers.

Come on, no one out there is running water / alcohol injection? You should be! Raises the octane point of 87 as high as 116, just think of the boost.

First off, this isn't for my quest. But I always get the straightest shooters in here, so I thought I'd put it out there. I have a non-intercooled Dodge SOHC 2.2L in an 87' Lancer. It was supposed to be my wife's, I found it in PA with 60k on it. But these little FWD Chrysler's are so fun to play with, and cost little to nothing to mod. And that's how I ended up using it as my daily...lol So I want to keep the log manifold draw-through T1 set-up. Talk about short track length, the TB sits on top of the turbo inlet, and there is a 4" hose between the compressor outlet and the intake. It runs a Garret T03 .48 trim on a log exhaust. I've pretty much taken it as far as I can without cooling. (K&N filter and cold air, long duration slipper cam advanced +1, 2.5" exhaust no-cat into highflow, custom tune) I advanced the cam and tuned the ECU for 9psi and 14.5' timing. The car is a 3-speed a413 auto. so it never see's north of 4k rpm. The cam and timing really helps fill the cylinders at low rpm, and at 2600lbs. she makes going to work almost as fun as in my quest. I have a new tune for the ECU that will run 12psi, before I install it I need to cool my intake charge. I've already decided on water/meth injection because I want to keep the uber-short intake track. I have a ported head and later model blow through manifolds for a swap down the road. But for now I'm enjoying the odd set-up. I'm going to put a single small (1gph or 180cc) injector directly in the turbo compressor outlet about 6" before the intake manifold. I'm going to run a 250psi pump from Devil'sOwn that can switch between 150 and 250psi. The 2.5 gallon washer botlte in the trunk that the rear wiper runs will be my bottle (I never use it anyway) And I'm going to mount the pump in my spare well. The ECU uses a 2-bar map on the manifold that was used in intercooled T2 car's. I have all the necessary fitting's, check valve etc. Now I want to use a 2-6psi adjustable hobb's switch from DO to trigger the spray. Such a small nozzle under such high pressure should insure atomization, and if not the heat from the manifolds on the non-crossflow head will do the trick. So I think the engine will be even less prone to bogging under light load while spraying. Yet that much 2:1 water to methanol should drop intake temps 50-70' F and severely slow flame front during combustion. Here's the question guy's (sorry I made the post so long); If I trigger the spray low down (like 2-3psi) so the injection acts like a long term continuous duty intercooler, is it unavoidable that I'll bog or misfire when I lift my foot? Do I have to shell out the extra $200 for a progressive controller? My pump is only capable of 3 duty cycle settings so that's like 2psi a step, is that worth the extra cash? I appreciate any advice, thanks people.

Fair enough, I'll throw it in with something else for free then. I could use it on my other quest, but I just know I'll forget and it'll sit here forever.

I'm looking to clear up some more storage space, I have some odds' n ends from my 86' TSi I had imported here. I won't need this stuff for my other quest so I thought I'd throw it on here and see if anyone wants it. I'm currently in Ontario (bonus for Canadian Quest owners) but I have to be in MI then SC in two weeks, so if your in the States and you don't want to pay the additional shipping we can work something out for shipping from there instead. All prices are OBO, PM me with any questions. Shipping at buyer's expense or local pick-up. Pictures upon request as well. I have an original Mitsubishi filter element for a stock air-can, new in box, box is a little haggered from being stored -$15 I have both trim panels from the rear of my 86' (Black leather interior) from when I converted to rear shoulder belts, very good condition, I think there is a hairline crack about 1" long on the side of one but that's it. The interior on that car was easily a 9-10 so they are nice. -$25 EA or 2 for $40 Also have the rear belt's from the conversion as well, these are in very good condition, lap belts male and female w/hardware. -$25 Lastly I have a new Fram oil filter in box. -$10 Just a shot in the dark, lemme know.