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Boosted77.

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Boosted77. last won the day on October 8 2014

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About Boosted77.

  • Birthday 06/10/1977

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Scream Turbo Scream!!! Gooood Turbo
  • Location
    Lawrenceville, Georgia
  • Gender
    Male

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Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    30045
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1986
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    After Market
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. Helloo from a long time no see member. Boosted77 here. I needed to use Chad's info recently that has been messed up due to a font error that stems from (i think) when the site was hacked several years ago. http://www.starquest...showtopic=28050 Here's the topic with the content fixed so that it can be a little more easy to read: 86 TSI: A connector 1: IGN - (negative) 2: AFS 3: n/c 4: GND (AFS) 5: Intake temp 6: Coolant temp 7: Idle SW 8: Motor Position SW 9: Pressure to gage 10: +5 volt power 11: O2 sensor 12: Ignitor signal 13: n/c 14: n/c 15: TPS 16: n/c 17: Intake temp (OVCP) 18: n/c 19: speed (coil) 20: n/c 21: Diag. Output 22: control relay (fuel pump) 23: secondary air (for catalyst) 24: pressure solenoid 86 TSI B connector: 1: +12V 2: GND 3: GND 4: EGR 5: IGN (cranking) 6: AC relay 7: +12V 8: Inhibitor 9: ISC + (out) 10: Injector # 1 11: ISC - (in) 12: Injector # 2 13: +12V backup 88 TSI A connector: 1: IGN - (negative) 2: AFS 3: Motor position SW (from A 8) 4: GND 5: Intake temp 6: Coolant temp 7: Idle SW 8: n/c 9: n/c 10: +5 volt power 11: O2 sensor 12: ISC - (in) from B 11 13: Ignitor advance 14: Sensor +5 backup 15: TPS 16: Barometric sensor (New wire run to AFS from '88 ECU) 17: n/c 18: n/c 19: Speed (coil) 20: secondary air (catalyst) 21: Diag. Output 22: control relay (fuel pump) 23: ISC + (out) (from B 9) n/c       24: AC relay 88 TSI B connector: 1: +12 V 2: GND 3: GND 4: EGR 5: IGN (cranking) 6: AC switch 7: +12 V 8: inhibitor 9: Boost guage 10: Injector 1 (primary) 11: Ignitor signal (from A 12) 12: injector 2 (secondary) 13: +12 V backup since a different MAS is needed to convert, you may as well step up to a 1-G DSM MAS, they are cheaper and work quite a lot better. 86 AFS to DSM AFS: green/red----green/orange red----green/red black----green/black white/black----green/blue new > A 16 to green/yellow new > +12 Switched to red n/c----green/white Notes: n/c means no connection >From A 8 means remove from stock 86 connector and relocate to the 88 pin number >On two pins, you will have to cut the wires and solder on the pin from the A or B connector, these connectors use different pins, you will have the pins you need when you start to move them. Some move from A to B, and some from B to A. Some leads may be left over, these are pins not used (if you eliminate the secondary air and the stock boost gage) This conversion also requires an 87/89 ISC assembly. The new ISC requires a +5 V supply and a ground for the new functions, because the MPS converted from a simple switch to a potentiometer, you need 2 additional wires. However, the mitsu engineers decided to add 3 wires instead, and the 3rd is un-used at the ISC end, it is the blue/yellow and literlay has no physical connection at the ISC end, either in the ISC nor in the connector itself so don't bother with it. looking at the diagrams, it shared the common ECU ground in 87/89's, so ground it anywhere. same for the +5 V, it connects to a common supply, so just find 5V at the ECU or at some other component like the TPS which is just inches away. So here's what you need to do: looking at the 87 ISC, you have a connector that has black/red, black/green and black/blue, this is the motor and idle SW. It connects as follows to the 86 harness: 87 ISC motor : 87 ISC black/red to 87 harness yellow/black (splice here) to 86 harness green/white 87 ISC black/green to 87 harness yellow/lbue (splice here) to 86 harness black/yellow 87 ISC black/blue to 87 harness yellow/red (splice here) to 86 harness yellow/red now you have the 4 pin connector with green/red, blue/red, black, and blue/yellow, this is the new MPS circuit and connects as follows: 87 MPS: 87 ISC red to 87 harness green/red (splice here) to new +5 volts 87 ISC green to 87 harness blue/red (splice here) to 86 harness green/black 87 ISC black to 87 harness black (splice here) to new ground 87 ISC red jumper to 87 harness blue/yellow to N/C < don't mess with this one leave the pins at the ECU where they are, they are correct, you simply need to add the 87 ISC, splice the 87 harness to the 86 harness where is says "splice here", and wire in the +5 and the ground To complete this conversion it would help to look over the '86 and '88 electrical scematics. Lastly to count the pins start from the Large "A" harness and contains the large white wire which is the ignition coil negative (on the front and left of the harness plug while facing down) and count to the right then horseshoe around to the next closest wire on the second row. Enjoy and sticky! Keep it Spooled Starquesters. Like This Report
  2. Yes, my buddy had a good one. Thanks anyways and take care.
  3. I think I might of found one from a local member. Not sure yet. Thank you for the quick response. I'll let you know mang.
  4. Hey guys. Just wondering if any one has a good clutch release fork. Mine was a good one until the little fork that slides behind the ball finally broke off. It lasted 217,000 miles. But it trashed a perfectly good Valeo 240mm clutch too. I thought it was a bad throw out bearing so I took the tranny out and installed a new one. Started it back up and the same horrendous sound was still there. Now after looking at the pressure plate, the fingers are all eaten up from, I guess, the clutch fork sliding out of alignment. Grrr. Please make sure it has the little fork that rivets to the assmbly and is tight and still attached. So if anyone has one, please respond with a price with shipping to 30046 which is NE of Atlanta, Ga.. Thanks in advance and as always keep it spooled.
  5. Do you have a good clutch release fork? It needs to have the small riveted flange still connected and not broken off. That's my problem with mine and I just trashed a perfectly good Valeo clutch.
  6. Thanks mang for a great pic. I set it as my desk top back ground.
  7. That's what my '86 was until I finally got the $$ together to get it painted the color I always wanted; Viper GTS blue. Luvin it. And as the factory paint faded, especially under the hood, it turned orangish.
  8. Oh, you're kid was sad too. He's a car aficionado for sure.
  9. Even though mine's a Conquest, I gotta admit I don't like people thinking it was made by Dodge, so I always just say it's a Starion since this is associated with Japan and Conquest is associated with America. Plus I always say it's an '88 Starion at parts stores, even though it's an '86. She never reveals here true age, lol.
  10. I run 'em. They're GReeat. lol. My are the dual spring set-up. No clunking. Keep the fender well even with the fenders. http://www.cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=67&pid=1239 They've had my car in the item pic for a couple years. Kinda cool.
  11. Get this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2005-Dodge-Neon/Alternator/_/N-jmnnuZ9ci9i 150 amp, lifetime warranty..
  12. Update: Can't believe how much time I fiddled with it until all I did was change the input to 3.5" MAF. Though the 3" definitely still installed. Instantaneous improvement and the car idles perfect and pulls hard as hell. Just set the mainscale back to about -15 to -20 and try. Car pulls hella hard with afr's in the 14's. Yum. Dyno sheet and vid coming ASAP. Remember a wideband makes this a cinch.
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