Starfighterpilot Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) Yup Starquest's do have an intake air restrictor plate OEM from the factory. While not exactly the same as NASCAR it does the same thing -restricts intake air flow thereby performance and top end. Many of the Old Timers already know this, but looking at the number of new 'Questers that have joined SQC I thought that I would throw this out there. Where you might ask? Well take the lid off of the air filter cannister. Put you fingers into the relatively small hole that the air gets sucked through into the cannister. Now turn you fingers outboard in that hole. The air intake volute opening where it mates to the cannister can is about twice as big as the existing cannister hole. Use a Dremel, whizzer, or weld grinder to cut the cannister hole to the same size as the metal volute inside surface opening. Ya can sort of tell where the volute attaches to the cannister cuz of the volute to cannister tack weld inpressions on the inside surfaces of the cannister. Make your cut about 1/4 inch inside of 'em. Then fair in the cut cannister can edges. If your Lady has a 2 1/2 or 3 in. exhaust system, opening up this hole could make a significant difference in the performance of your Lady. It will probably increase the performance of a OEM Stock Starquest with the stock exhaust system but not to the same extent of a Starquest with a larger ID exhaust system. The neat thing about opening up this cannister air inlet hole is you don't have to cut a LARGE hole in the air cannister which is open to the engine house to suck more air into it. And you are sucking more relatively cool air into the turbo from the space between the front of the wheel well and the engine house body, not hot air from the engine house. Cheap performance mod without altering anything else, that only costs time. And the '88 &'89 EFI ECU fuel maps and Air Flow Sensor can handle the increased available air flow. For What It's Worth. KEN Edited January 12, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) This is why on a Stock Air canister set up we use to suggest drilling holes in the Air can or cutting a large square out of it.Now days, A 1st gen mas can be purchased dirt cheap ($60.00 to $90.00) dollars, thus eliminating the need for a Stock air can modification of any kind.The best info. I can give is to skip the Stock air can mods and go straight to a 1st Gen set up. You will end up doing it sooner or later And if you have more money to spend. Just go with the Maf-Translator, GM Maf and install a Wideband. Appox. cost for all three.....$450.00. I don't give bad advice, just sound advice, Bill Edited January 12, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 What in the heck is a stock air can Ken? That's pretty cool to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 What in the heck is a stock air can Ken? That's pretty cool to know! The stock air can is the big butt cannister that sits in the front of the engine house right behind the radiator support on the passenger side that the stock OEM air filter sits in. For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 (edited) This is why on a Stock Air canister set up we use to suggest drilling holes in the Air can or cutting a large square out of it.Now days, A 1st gen mas can be purchased dirt cheap ($60.00 to $90.00) dollars, thus eliminating the need for a Stock air can modification of any kind.The best info. I can give is to skip the Stock air can mods and go straight to a 1st Gen set up. You will end up doing it sooner or later And if you have more money to spend. Just go with the Maf-Translator, GM Maf and install a Wideband. Appox. cost for all three.....$450.00. I don't give bad advice, just sound advice, Bill Bill, I appreciate what you are saying - that is the way to go for max performance. However there are many Starquesters that don't have the $450 to invest in the translator, GM maf and a wide band. Me for one. And there are many Starquesters which wish to get the maximum reliable performance that they can but still keep their Starquest "looking" OEM stock. My OP is one contributing way of getting there. For What It's Worth. KEN Edited January 12, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Bill, I appreciate what you are saying - that is the way to go for max performance. However there are many Starquesters that don't have the $450 to invest in the translator, GM maf and a wide band. Me for one. And there are many Starquesters which wish to get the maximum reliable performance that they can but still keep their Starquest "looking" OEM stock. My OP is one contributing way of getting there. For What It's Worth. KEN Agreed Ken.But for the price of a 1st Gen Mas.. ($60.00 to $90.00)It is well worth it. If you want to keep your Starquest stock...Listen to Ken. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 unless you want the total stock look then do not do this FREE mod. http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Air%20Can/AirCan-1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fanta Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 The stock air can is the big butt cannister that sits in the front of the engine house right behind the radiator support on the passenger side that the stock OEM air filter sits in. For What It's Worth. KEN I do hope you know I was just poking fun ( for the fact that about 80% of Starion's no longer have the stock intake ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Project83 Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I'll have to look into this next time i can tinker with my '83 because i like my stock air box... granted it is modded a little. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/1267387932/gallery_2003_614_61158.jpg Good info Ken, i didn't know about the restrictor plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I do hope you know I was just poking fun ( for the fact that about 80% of Starion's no longer have the stock intake ) Yeah I know that. A lot of Starquests have been hacked to hell and back. I guess that this is a tip for the purists like me that want to keep their 'quests as OEM looking as they can but still improve performance over stock. For What It's Worth. KEN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubZero Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Agreed Ken.But for the price of a 1st Gen Mas.. ($60.00 to $90.00)It is well worth it. If you want to keep your Starquest stock...Listen to Ken. Bill I paid $25.00 for my 1st Gen Mas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxzillian Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) http://maxzillian.com/starion/aircan1.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/aircan2.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/aircan3.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/aircan6.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/aircan7.jpg 1G MAS lid and a stock lid merged together. Also the first time I ever used a TIG. It shows. http://maxzillian.com/starion/1ghat.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/aircan11.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/aircan13.jpg Edited January 13, 2011 by Maxzillian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Umm, You can get a 1st gen mass air sensor for free. So definately don't pay 60 bucks or more for one. The factory restrictor plate is called a 12a. Please put your car on a dyno, Ken, and start 100% stock, then dremel out that little bit of metal and do another pull. Then you can tell us that it increases performance. For the 2% of people who have the stock air can and everything else stock, they probably wouldn't care about the minimal (if any) gains had by cutting away a little metal in the air can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Umm, You can get a 1st gen mass air sensor for free. So definately don't pay 60 bucks or more for one. The factory restrictor plate is called a 12a. Please put your car on a dyno, Ken, and start 100% stock, then dremel out that little bit of metal and do another pull. Then you can tell us that it increases performance. For the 2% of people who have the stock air can and everything else stock, they probably wouldn't care about the minimal (if any) gains had by cutting away a little metal in the air can. It's ON! Tech is throwing down! http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I dunno, I just like to see useful mods. And without proof, there's no way to say this does anything other than remove a couple grams of metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 I dunno, I just like to see useful mods. And without proof, there's no way to say this does anything other than remove a couple grams of metal. I thought this was a good one. "The factory restrictor plate is called a 12a" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Noone mentioned the silencer star cardboard yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) Noone mentioned the silencer star cardboard yet. lol thats what the entire thread has been about http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif but that cardboard thingie is actualy a muffler so you don't hear the turbo gobble as to air intake restrictions,, not a factory car made that isn't restrict'd in some way i think the small inlet port is to help throw any moisture against the outter filter houseing so it can drain down the side , air is speed'd up when force'd thru a small opening also max air flow was not what they were aiming for Edited January 13, 2011 by Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 No, the thread is about the air can, not the silencer. And I forgot to mention that the only similarities my car has with Nascar garbage is that it uses AN fittings in some places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 (edited) I dunno, I just like to see useful mods. And without proof, there's no way to say this does anything other than remove a couple grams of metal. Tech, using your anology, then cutting large holes in the outside of the air filter cannister does nothing for performance either "other than removing a few grams of metal." If you read my OP I did not say that enlarging that hole WOULD significantly increase performance. I stated that it "could." And you are absolutely correct, without putting a stock Starquest or a modded Starquest using a stock OEM air cannister on a chassis dyno first and making some runs; then installing an air cannister with the subject hole enlarged while changing nothing else and making some dyno runs, there is no way to determine if the mod increases performance. Do any of you guys have print outs of chassis dyno runs of your Starquest using a stock OEM air cannister; then immediately changing to a air cannister with large external holes cut in it while changing nothing else. I would really like to see the results of those runs and compare the performance change. Without making those runs and comparing those results how can you justify cutting large holes in the air filter cannister external surfaces other than other Starquesters are doing it so it must increase performance? Personally I really like the mod that Maxzillian did to his OEM air filter cannister. Why? Cuz you are sucking atmospheric temp air into the combustion cycle and getting the lowest air temps achieviable from the outlet of the intercooler. In other words, lower temp = more available O2 = more power produced during combustion. To me, and I may be TOTALLY FULL OF IT, sucking air through large holes cut in the air cannister that has been pre-heated by, as a minimum, the radiator is increasing the outlet temp of the air that has passed through the intercooler (because the intercooler has a fixed heat transfer coefficient) and into the combustion cycle and is therefore warmer and less dense and contains less O2 than taking an air suction from a cooler outside source & more dense. As I'm positive you are aware of, the available O2 has a large effect on the power produced during the combustion cycle. In other words, higher temp = less available O2 = less power produced during combustion. As far as the silencer card board removal, I have ridden in 12A semi-stock Starquests and I do not care for the increased air flow noise and turbo turkey gobble that the removal enhances. And once you pull the card board silencer out you can not reinstall it. I'd never suggest removing it to a noob cuz he may screw up the laminer flow baffles for the air flow sensor, if he/she does not completely know what they are doing. EDDE, Your statement "The factory restrictor plate is called a 12a" is absolutely correct. It only puts out 320 cfms@15psi of boost with the 8 cm exhaust housing. But what's wrong with potentially giving it as much help as possible (reducing a potential inlet air flow restriction) that you possibly can while still maintaining the OEM stock external appearance and still drawing it's air from a cooler external source? Shelby, you may right in your reply "i think the small inlet port is to help throw any moisture against the outter filter houseing so it can drain down the side , air is speed'd up when force'd thru a small opening." If so, what does cutting large holes into the outside surfaces of the filter cannister (as pictured in some of the replies) do to the cannister's ability to remove that moisture when driving in a rain storm while the passenger side front tire is splashing water towards the center of the car with or without the metal panel between the radiator core support and the bottom front and sides of the engine? What did MITSU know that we don't or are ignoring? Do ya think that once the air filter element gets soaked through and moisture starts going through the turbo that you may just start getting water into the intercooler where it somewhat sits until you send a blast of it into the TB the first time you hit the accelerator hard on a long pull? Ah yes - water injection!! Something for you guys to consider that do not have the metal panel between the radiator core support and around bottom front and sides of the engine. According to a recent post reply's most Starquests still on the road do not have that panel installed for one reason or another. You can possibly say that the same thing will happen with the mod that I suggested in my OP. However, were does the OEM air induction take it's suction from? The void space between the wheel well and the engine house outer body sheet metal. A lot less water there in a rain storm if your panels are properly attached. BTW - EDDE replying "It's ON! Tech is throwing down!" Are you trying to start a confrontation? If so, it ain't gonna happen on my end. You and Tech have been around too long and have given out a lot of good info for that to happen from me. I tried to write this reply in a non -antagonistic manner. If you feel that I was antagonistic then I apologize, it was not my intent. However I felt I had to defend myself and my original post for potentially increasing available air flow and retaining the original external OEM look. For What It's Worth. KEN Edit - Shelby you said "...max air flow is not what they were aiming for" to my way of thinking is correct! Think back in the '70's & '80's when smog restrictions were getting tighter and insurance rates were sky high which were restricting available factory rated horsepower on car engines from the factory, even though with a few easy mods were capable of more performance. MITSU appears to have done some things, that are easily changed, to detune the Starquest engines and restrict the factory rated horse power to keep insurance costs down and still pass smog restrictions. Edited January 13, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Hey the way I see it is, if you have a mod or some insight and are ok sharing it with everyone then go right ahead. Even if it only helps one other person on here it is worth it simply to add to the base of knowledge this site represents which is the main thing that drew me to the site in the first place. So post away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 BTW - EDDE replying "It's ON! Tech is throwing down!" Are you trying to start a confrontation? If so, it ain't gonna happen on my end. You and Tech have been around too long and have given out a lot of good info for that to happen from me. Yikes! It was truly supposed to all be in fun. (And I was only quoting Andrewski with the 12a comment). One can hope that we couldn't have a real fight here over such an issue http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/wub.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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