Couple of Noob Questions

[hopefull noob]

Hi, been a long time lurker, usually just doing searches and FSM reading, but I am running into some issues.

 

1. The turbo coolant feed/drain lines, is there a way to fit a wrench in there or do I need to go find a 22 mm socket? Cant get my wrench to fit on enough to not feel like I will strip the head. Trying to fit my braided lines on, while I have the radiator out getting cleaned, replacing all the sensors, ect.

 

2. The Oil Pump/Power steering belt, how do you loosen and tighten it. I found the two bolts at the 3 and 9 o'clock, loosened them, but the oil pump doesn't seem to move enough to easily get the belt off. Just changing the belts, because one had some wear showing, but that one looks good, and I can figure out how to tighten it back up. The FSM just says to 'adjust drive belt tension' but doesn't go into details about how to do that.

 

3. How the crap do you remove the skid plate? I see the 4 12 mm bolts, but when I try and take them off, they just spin. Not super loose, but they just never come out at all. Very frustrating, as having to work around it, just makes everything more difficult.

 

This car is the baby, but always makes me so frustrated and look silly when trying to do anything. argg.

 

Thanks for any help!

 

-hn

Edited November 15, 2014 by hopefull noob

[scott87star]

1) Get a socket.

 

2) There are two bolts inside the pulley, you have to have the pulley in the correct position and feed a socket through the holes in the pulley. They are close to 12 and 6 o'clock but slightly off from that.

 

3) Clearly you need a wrench on the backside as your "captive" nuts are no longer so.

[hopefull noob]

1) in the morning I will grab one.

 

2) I can get to the two bolts, but is that the only adjustment? Do I just push really hard on the oil pump, then quickly tighten the bolts? The FSM says it should be tighter than the other belts, by giving less deflection at the same pressure, but the others chance a bit to pull the pully tighter. Can't seem to get it right.

 

3) On the two outside bolts, the nut isn't spinning with the bolt I have put a wrench on it, and tried just holding it to see. The two middle two, I have only held the nut, and it didn't spin.

 

Thanks for the quick response, just want to get better at this.

 

-hn

[markhansenconquest]

do your sell a favor.....get some penertrating oil........krill or some kind of rust buster oil....

[TexasQuest]

Yes liquid wrench is your best friend. A crows foot wrench helps a lot on those hard to reach places.

[hopefull noob]

There is penetrating oil soaking on the coolant banjo bolts. Would like to get this all taken care of while the radiator is out. Haha

Hn

[mikec]

Coolant feed lines use a pass-through banjo bolt that, combined with the two copper crush washers, tends to be darn hard to remove. Once a bolt breaks free it usually spins easily. I've always used a socket on them.

 

Power steering pump: two bolts accessed through holes/slots in the pulley plus one on the back, near the bottom. Gotta loosen that back one (it acts like a pivot) in addition to the two behind the slots. When the right bolts are loose, the pump should flop back and forth easily. If you really have to pry on it to move it something else is wrong - and you'll probably damage the pump prying too hard.

 

Bolts on the splash shield: they feed into nuts spot-welded inside the sheet metal underneath the radiator (front two bolts) and to nuts welded to brackets that also support the anti-roll bar (one on each side at the back end of the splash shield) if I remember correctly. If the bolts get rust/corrosion on them and jam it is quite easy - and not uncommon - for them to jam to the nuts... using brute force trying to break the bolts free just busts the nut welds instead. Now the nuts spin with the bolts... and the front nuts are inside a sheet metal tube where you can't access them. You're kinda screwed when this happens. I'd hacksaw the head off the bolt. Then I'd drill new holes in the splash shield and bodywork tube about an inch away from the original ones and use beefy self-tapping screws to thread into the body tube. The new holes in the splash shield should be a tad bigger than the screw threads so the screw doesn't try to thread onto the shield... just like the original holes & bolts. Get some paint on the freshly drilled holes to minimize future rust accumulation.

 

I've also heard of folks using locking pliers to grab the bolt head and pry the bolt sideways (towards the side of the car) literally ripping the bolt+nut through the sheet metal - mangling the sheet metal tube in the process. You'll still have to find some other method to re-attach the shield after that.

 

mike c.

[hopefull noob]

1. Got the socket, suprisingly 22mm only comes in 1/2 in drive around here, thought I had one, but it looks like I will need to borrow/pick one up,as there doesn't look to be enough room for an adapter either.

 

2. I re-loosened the front two, and loosened a bolt on the back/bottom, but still no movement. As you can see, I loosened number 1 below, but no luck with the pump just pivoting as you said. Does it need to be completely removed? Before I got bolt happy I figured I would post a picture to see if I am on the right track, don't want to hurt the pump, even if it probably needs a rebuild.

 

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac110/iramsey8765/Sharon/PSPump_zpsefd497ca.jpg

 

As with the slightly helpful picture from the parts manual, number 1 in the above picture I thought was number 24 from below, and number 5 is 25(?) from below, and 23 from below is from the bracket to the block. 2, 4, and 5 are the ones on the pump itself, with another hidden behind the bracket itself. Sorry about the picture quality, my phone doesn't like close pictures, and there is quite a bit of grime from the last 27 years under there.

 

http://i890.photobucket.com/albums/ac110/iramsey8765/Sharon/FSMPSPump_zpsb03163f4.jpg

 

3. The splash guard is definitely not cooperating. Gonna try and break the spot weld, but we will see how it goes on the front two, since they are inside the frame.

 

Thanks for all the help, and with the continued knowledge.

 

-Hn

Edited November 17, 2014 by hopefull noob

[TexasQuest]

.Yes #1 needs to be removed, it holds the pump to the bracket. Edited November 17, 2014 by TexasQuest

[hopefull noob]

Ok, so I just remove that bolt, then the pump will slide to loosen and remove the belt, and returning that bolt is how tight the belt is supposed to be? It just seems slightly looser than it should be with it in. Thanks for the help though, its slow to pick up knowledge while trying to make big mistakes.

 

hn

[TexasQuest]

No that back bolt holds the pump to the bracket, no belt adjustment there. The 2 bolts on the front of the pump behind the pulley is what adjusts your belt tension. Your welcome man, no problem. Gotta learn somehow, just don't TRY to make big mistakes.

[hopefull noob]

Just to confirm, or 'break it down barney style' as they say, the rear bolt will remove the pump to change the belt, and the only tension adjustment is the two front bolts, so when they are tight, the belt is as tight as it will go? Sorry about the rephrase of the same question, just seems loose with only that adjustment.

Hn

[TexasQuest]

You don't need to remove the pump to change the belt. That's what the two front bolts do when you loosen them the pump "swivels" on the mounting bracket to install/remove the belt as well as adjust it's tension.