tsi_tom Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 I am going to change the bearings in my alternator. They are making a noise. While I am there I will replace the brushes as well. What bearings are you using? Do you have a part number for the inner and outer? What brushes are you using? Do you have a part number? Mitsubishi parts are no longer available. The closest alternator shop is about an hour away from me. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 It's most likely the front bearing that's making the noise. It's hard for crud to get to the back bearing. The only thing that gets back there is fine dust from the brushes, but it still has to get to the seal. I've never seen a rear one bad in our alternators. I'm not sure of the rear bearing, but the front bearing is Timken Part# 302SS The brushes can be bought at any part store. They're standard 75 amp brushes. Napa Part# ECH E480 for $8 - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Thank you Charles. Have you put these part on your car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Yep! The bushing qualities don't vary much. But I would recommend getting a good quality bearing. Keep in mind that the alternator is at the bottom of the engine and is exposed to oil, water and road dust. I try to stick with Timken, National, or SKF bearings. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 What is the factory using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Most likely they used Koyo bearings. That seems to have been their supplier. Timken is the go to brand for comparable quality. As long as it's not a Chinese knockoff, you'll be good. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 yep I worked for a ball bearing company LIKe he said ^^^^^ NO CHINA.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 (edited) Looks like a Koyo distributor is near me BEARINGS and DRIVES UNLIMITED INC. 2070 QUAKER POINTE DR. QUAKERTOWN PA Edited November 7, 2014 by tsi_tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 For the exact Koyo part number just pull the front bearing out and look at the seal or one of the races for the number. Assuming it hasn't been replaced before that is. It'll still probably say something similar to the 302SS number. Good luck! - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted November 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 For the exact Koyo part number just pull the front bearing out and look at the seal or one of the races for the number. Assuming it hasn't been replaced before that is. It'll still probably say something similar to the 302SS number. Good luck! - Charles I was hoping to get all the parts I needed first, but I will look. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Get the brushes and when you're ready to do the alternator then look at the bearing, get the new one (if koyo doesn't have them then the others are normally in stock at napa), then rebuild it. Car should be down only a few hours. Any time. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted November 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 Took an alternator apart today. The bearings are: Front: NTN TMB 302LUX3Rear: NSK N43 BB-790 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 24, 2014 Report Share Posted November 24, 2014 After a quick search on the part numbers, I found nothing. Based on what I've learned about bearings, the front bearing looks to be a 302 Parr number and is double sealed. So a 302CC Timken bearing would likely be the candidate. Just take some measurements to be sure. As for the rear, it looks as though the B79 might be close. Take some measurements of the bearing and just compare it to the chart in the following address: Rear: http://www.ddb-tech.com/automobile-alternator-bearing.htm Once you have that number you can simply crossreference it to see what compatible bearing numbers there are. Hope this helps! - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 (edited) Found some information for the front bearing. Just need to understand the X3 suffix. Page 41 http://www.bearingdi...lerbearings.pdf Edited November 29, 2014 by tsi_tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 If you look at the part numbers that I listed in my first response, I gave a Timken Part number 302SS. As long as it's sealed on both sides and is the right dimensions then you won't have any problems. I feel like you're making this more complicated than it should be. The front bearing and the brushes are an easy find for good quality parts. The only difficulty to the rear is that you'll have to search for a double height ball bearing with the same dimensions. Again...sealed on both sides. Again, don't over think it. Just get some National/Timken bearings and you'll be fine. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Your right. But I like stock stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 The problem is that the bearings are most likely from the 80's, meaning the part number has most likely been discontinued for 15+ years. If you look at the part number you gave of the front bearing, it has a 302 number before the LUX3. Meaning, it's the same base part number. Most likely the LUX3 has relevance to the sealed nature of the bearing. In essence, it's the same part number as the 302SS. Bearings are simple parts. Just some metal balls, caged into a race with seals on none, one, or both sides to hold in grease. Overall, as long as the metal isn't crap and the seals don't have poor resistance to heat and wear, then the bearing is fine to use. Japn and USA make some of the most widely used and trusted bearings. If you can find a double sealed 302 bearing from KOYO, then that'll probably be as close as you're going to get to stock. However, Timken and National are (I believe) owned by the same company and share the same part numbers and are USA brands. The majority of people here and elsewhere use them because they're good quality bearings equivalent to KOYO and other top import brands for half the price. From there the only decision you're making is whether or not you want to pay extra for the same quality with a different brand name. It's almost like buying a MacBook that can do virtually the same as a Toshiba, yet the Toshiba costs $400 while the MacBook costs $1200. From personal experience, I've used both National and Timken bearings as well as "Precision" bearings and haven't had a single bearing failure after 10 years and 50,000 miles. But, and this is a BIG but...I would only use precision bearings on small things that don't take a lot of wear. Anything that takes abuse, I use Timken or National and call it done. - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsi_tom Posted December 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 The part number still is valid except X. X is the only option that needs to be investigated. The bearings I took out are NTN (front) and NSK (rear), not Koyo. These bearings appear to be the stock bearings. TMB - Thermal Mechanical Bearing. Take a look at this: http://www.bartlettbearing.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/NTN-TMB-Bearings.pdf3 - Series02 - Bore Diameter of 15 mmLU - Double lip contact rubber sealX-? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalkerancestery Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 Read up on some of the info on http://www.nationalprecision.com/ under the "Info Library" drop down. Comparing their process to what you sent about the TMB (Thermal Mech Bearing), the process is identical and even surpasses if looking at stainless. If you look at their Technical Data for miniature bearings, you'll find a laundry list of details to suit similar or better results to the NTN or NSK bearings. As a direct comparison, you can look at http://www.nationalprecision.com/miniature-bearings/technical-data/design_and_materials.php AND http://www.nationalprecision.com/miniature-bearings/technical-data/seals_and_shields.php It's not a high powered rocket. Keep it simple - Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts