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$20k Rebuild, not quite finished


Mattastica
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This is my three year project car, I have dumped about $16k into it. I no longer have a house with a garage so it is sitting in storage costing me $100 a month. I'm in Saint Louis, MO and could arrange delivery depending on the price and location. Here are the major things that are left...

 

Intake system - I have a magna intake manifold from Chad as you can see, needs custom intake piping, intercooler and BOV

Exhaust System - Other than manifold and Turbo the entire exhaust system needs done

Finish Fuel system - All parts have been purchased and mostly installed, needs completed (may needs some fittings)

Engine Management System and distributeless ignition - All purchased and partly installed

Interior - Partially reinstalled, seats aren't any good.. I wouldn't use them anyway

Head - Everything about this car was centered around obtaining 400HP, the only compromise I made that will keep you from obtaining that is the head. I had to put the car back together to put it in storage, so I rebuilt the stock head instead of buying the brand new Marnal head. I completely assembled the engine, so you can run with it as is or you can pull the head off and put on a properly built head.

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0192.jpg?w=1000&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00409.jpg?w=1000&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0098.jpg?w=1000&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/dsc00406.jpg?w=1000&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0203.jpg?w=1000&h=

 

I will go out and take current pics this weekend. I don't have any in its current state, right now all the windows, hood, and body panels are installed, sans the front clip, bumper, and spoiler. I do not have a rear spoiler, the body guy could not repair the stock one. It does come with a pint or so of extra paint.

 

Below is a break down of the cost. Don't let the meager $4k body work fool you, I sanded it down to the bare metal myself (except the engine bay, the body guy sand blasted that). Also, the body guy was nice enough to work on it between insurance jobs so it took forever, but he was able to do a good job for a good price. He cut out a few sections of metal and welded in new around the rear fenders. He also cut out two sections in the frame rail and welded in new metal. If you see any question marks next to the price it means I can't find the receipt and am going off memory, I think I only have two of those.

 

Project Site

http://mmcclaskey.wordpress.com/

 

What do I want?

I would prefer not to part out the car. I would sell it as is for $10k or a good offer. The next option would be to part it out. If you are interested in the rolling chassis, please give me an offer and I will consider parting it out. I think it would be easy to sell the turbo, manifolds, etc, but the rolling chassis would be the hard part. I might also consider trades for a daily driver car for my wife, if the bluebook value is in the right range.

 

Parts and Labor break down

 

 

TEP

-----------

$899 - Haltech Sprint 500 EMS with long harness

$41 - Trigger wheel

$80 - Magnetic pickup

$185 - Modified crank pulley, 6" wheel and bracket

$310 - Turbonetics EVO Wastegate

$299 - T3 Exhaust Manifold

$1,144 - Turbonetics 60-1 series Ceramic ball baring T3/T4 Turbo

 

Radical Rods (body shop)

---------------------------

$4,000 - Repaired frame rails, repaired rusted metal in body (welded in new metal), sandblasted entire engine bay, repaired dents, primed and painted body

 

Jay Racing

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$450 - Injectors 850cc with leads and clips

$76 - magnetic pickup

$143 - Haltech dual ignition module

$104 - 2 dual output coils

$265 - Fuel pressure regulator

$20 - Turbo coolant adapters

 

OReilly's

------------------

$86 - Starter

$131 - Altenator

$75 - Hoses, belts, clamps

$102 - Battery

 

Rock Auto

-----------------

$112 - 2 upper strut mounts

$33 - Wheel bearings, seals front and rear

$23 - OEM brake hoses

$100 - KYB front struts

$23 - KYB strut bellows

$80 - 4 Tie Rod ends

$54 - 2 lower ball joints

$35 - Stabilizer bar link kit and control arm bushings

$26 - Temperature Sender

$7 - Temp Sensor

$36 - Water pump

$23 - Oil pressure switch

$10 - Transmission Mount

$27 - Motor Mounts

$32 - Head Bolts

$55 - Head Gasket kit

$44 - Parking brake cable

$5 - Backup lamp switch

$36 - clutch pilot bearing, clutch slave cylinder

$19 - Battery cables

$13.60 - Valve springs x8

$33 - Universal Joint

$82 - rear caliper

$42 - Conversion gasket set

 

 

Engine Machine Service

-----------------------------------

$34 - BK1C 6-PC BSE Kit (cam bearings I think)

$47 - Camshaft timing kit

$192 - Oil Pump

$45 - Hydraulic lifters

$50 - intake and exh studs

$81 - Timing kit, balance shaft removal kit

$702 - Wiseco 8-1 forged pistons, Clevite Rod bearings, lower gasket set, brass plug set, ARP Rod bolt kit

 

 

Summit Racing

---------------------------------

$56 - Braided steel clutch hydraulic line, banjo bolt and adapters

$280 - Walbro 255lph fuel pump, braided steel fuel line, 6AN fuel adapters, Fuel Filter, 90 degree swivel 6AN adapter

$185 - Oil radiator, hose, fittings, adapters

 

Misc

--------------------------

$305 - tinted rear windows

$45 - Rear speakers

$329 - New front lip

$450 - ($149 shipping included in that price) New 83' style hood Fiberglass reinforced plastic

$71 - Fuel rail for Magna intake

$300 - Sandblasting (baking soda blasting actually) of all underbody parts (sub frame, control arms, sway bar, anything that came off and got reused for the most part)

$300 - Centerforce Dual friction clutch

$50-80? - Both front calipers (can't find receipt, but they are new or rebuilt)

$100 - Rear struts

$700? - Lower end rebuild, labor only

 

Total

----------------

$12,833 - new parts and labor

$2,700 - Orig purchase price

-------

$16,233

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Well, I'd really rather not part out the car. I'm trying to get a feel for my options. If I don't get any interest from anyone wanting to buy the whole car as is then I may just have to suck it up and pay a shop to finish it. The issue with that is that paying someone to finish it could cost anywhere from $5k-$10k I'm guessing. I'm also guessing when it is done it will be worth no more than $16k and I would have spent $26k, if I cut my loses now I will lose less money and someone else can get a good deal and finish it breaking even as far as total cost vs market value.

 

Somewhere between the start of the project and now my priorities changed.

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SUPER Nice! I hope you get what you want for it, or preferable; finish it. I know, YES, it will never bring your entire investment back, most probably? Been my experience, they "Rarely, or Never" do. Ask most, they'll tell you to go buy a "finished car," rather than do'n it yourself; it's much cheaper! Really great looking, hope you change your mind. :)
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Here are the up to date photos. Couple of items I remembered and more details...

 

- Radiator is brand new

- Needs center link, steering linkage is not connected right now

- Although I bought new calipers, they are not installed, needs new brake line to rear brakes.

- All parts that are supposed to be blue have been painted except spoiler, as mentioned before, the spoiler was not repairable. It was not broken, just to warped for the body guy to fix

- Some black trim pieces have not been painted, front windshield and rear window pieces.

- Right tail light has a crack, but appears to be in good condition otherwise

- No A/C, I never had any intention of installing it, this was not meant to be a daily driver, most A/C parts were thrown away

- As you can see, the interior is not fully together. Aside from the seats the interior is in decent condition

- The undercarriage was not fully stripped and re painted. Only the frame rail sections that were replaced and near the engine bay where repainted with an under body coating

- No body filler at all, this body was completely stripped to bare metal (except undercarriage), any rust was cut out and new metal welded in.

- All rear glass has new window tint, professionally done with the windows out of the car

- Valve cover needs a real paint job

- pic of engine shows an OEM fuel rail, an aftermarket one was purchased and comes with the car

 

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0542.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0541.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0543.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0544.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0545.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0548.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0549.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0550.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0554.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0557.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0560.jpg?w=700&h=

 

http://mmcclaskey.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/img_0562.jpg?w=700&h=

Edited by Mattastica
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These cars are not investments and anyone that thinks they are or that they can recoup their cost is distorted. These cars are restored by people that love them that want to do something with their cash other than burn it, it is that plain and simple. :)

 

I personally had someone hand me $5k for my car to help convince me to sell, we took it for a test drive and when we got back to my driveway I handed him his money back and told him I'm not selling it. Shortly after I garaged it for over 10 years. I did that because I love the car, not because $5k wasnt more than enough.

 

Extremely nice inside and out low mile quest may fetch $16k.

 

This may be a tough sell for you and I wish you the best of luck. However, if you do end up parting it out let me know.

 

I am in St. Louis as well and there are some things on there I would like.

 

I thought I was the last one in the area with one being I havent seen one in probably 4-6 years. :)

Edited by Skippy
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Yeah, I knew going in that I was going to spend a lot of money on it and would never be able to recoup it. At this point I'm not willing to part it out. Unless I can sell it as is I will have to just keep it in storage until I move back into a house with a garage where I can finish it. Thanks to everyone for your interest, sorry to change my mind on the parting it out, I just can't do it.
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  • 4 months later...

I've got to get rid of this. $4,500 for the car, with a short block. I've pulled off all the easy expensive items (turbo, intake, Haltech ECU), but left on many items like the brand new radiator, fuel pump (walbro 255), SS fuel line etc. If you are interested please PM and I'll get more specifics.

 

I'll be throwing the car on ebay soon.

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