Mad-Dax's NA-T 2JZ-GE

[Laodicea]

1989 Chrysler Conquest TSI 2.6L 8v OHC to 3.0L 2JZ-GE 24v DOHC Turbo.

 

This build will be directing any kind or references of modifications towards the Conquest/Starion. Engine references are 2J of course unless noted otherwise.

 

Kudos to Highly Boosted and serpentkilla for their successful 2jz swap threads.

 

So back in June of 09 I popped a head gasket on the 2.6 for the last time (in my mind) and put my car in the drive and pondered. I almost wanted to get rid of the ol’ Quest again like I had done 10 years ago thinking…never again will I touch these cars. Instead I got an idea and I went to the local pick n’ pull to look for a 4G64 engine. Found it …got it…took it home…went back to look for more things like a DOHC head off the Mitsubishi. But as I was walking I came across this

 

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00897.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00898.jpg

 

1993 Lexus GS300…So I said $200 …ok… so what if it is a non-turbo…I am MAD-DAX, ……I can MOD! ….well anywayz.

 

What I thought was going to take a few weeks…turned into months upon months of having to mod this and having to make that. I did all the work to this thing and had to learn a lot in the process being that it is an engine from a different car that is not supposed to go into this car….Arrr!!

 

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/DSC00640.jpg

 

The old 2.6….Yank it!!!

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/09-03-09_1912.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/09-03-09_1913.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01082.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01084.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01083.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00969.jpg

 

This radiator is a Autopwr aluminum radiator TOYOTA SUPRA/SOARER 1986-1992

This is what fit best for my build…there are several sized 2jz radiators or even universal type that are out there but you need one with the width below to make it easier.

Core size: 375*632*52mm or 14.7x24.8x2”

Overall size 465*660*61mm or 18.3x26x2.4”

Row: 2

If you get a larger than 26” wide like the Supra 93-98 it will not fit between the rails. You still have to cut the bumper brackets (later topic needs pics of that mess).

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01085.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01086.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01087.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01088.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01089.jpg

 

For the A/C compressor pulley to fit.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01090.jpg

[Laodicea]

The Aristo alternator has a different connector than the american supra/lexus version.

 

American

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/W01331600919ND.jpg

 

Aristo…see the difference in the plug on the back vs. the top? Make sure you know what you get for your harness.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01091.jpg

 

Since this is a different alternator the top hole is larger than the bolt hole in the water pump where it mounts….so do we drill and tap water pump for a larger bolt? Naa..lets ream the alternator hole and make a bushing for it. This way if I need to get another water pump no tapping or if I have to get a new alternator reaming the hole is easier for the bushing. ½” drill bit for alternator hole and 10mm bit for inside of bushing. Cut bushing/spacer length to fit.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01095.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01094.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01093.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01096.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01097.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01099.jpg

[Dan_Brew]

Looking good Dax keep up the good work.

[BrazilBoy]

Goodwork...bring her to Vegas Nats so we can watch her run....

 

~Roberto

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

That was great and infromative. i wonder if it would be worth going down there to get a engine for around 500 lol(we dont have pull it yards here) thanks to Blomberg and Guliani they are shutting down yards in NY.

 

I going to put up my two blocks and .40 over G54 and the auto tranny and the two 5spds to get some doe lol

[TexasQuest]

Nice work so far dax! What are you gonna do with your old g54b?

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

I will start with the "can still turn back parts" lol rad and fan....

 

what do you think about this Lao,

 

its a little off but.

cx racing

Radiator：

▪ Overall Size: 26"x18.25"x3"

 

▪ Core Size: 25"x15"x2.25"

▪ 1.38" Inlet & Outlet

▪ Rows: 2

 

for $195 shipped. off an ebay murchant

 

and a twin fan set up to be placed between the rad and condensor. I think you say we only have an inch of play between them and the best i found was a 2x12 set up. for 50 bucks

[Laodicea]

I will start with the "can still turn back parts" lol rad and fan....

 

what do you think about this Lao,

 

its a little off but.

cx racing

Radiator：

▪ Overall Size: 26"x18.25"x3"

 

▪ Core Size: 25"x15"x2.25"

▪ 1.38" Inlet & Outlet

▪ Rows: 2

 

for $195 shipped. off an ebay murchant

 

and a twin fan set up to be placed between the rad and condensor. I think you say we only have an inch of play between them and the best i found was a 2x12 set up. for 50 bucks

 

Yes taht will work...I paid $175 shipped...put the fans on the engine side of radiator...I'll post those pic later..tonight I am sorting through them and writing the info....but my next post will be the fuel rail and intake...

[Laodicea]

I want to save money…maybe we all do. I already have 1000cc Delphi low impedence injectors so instead of buying some new to fit the Toyota for $350 or more and a new $250 fuel rail lets make one of our own and make them fit in the intake.

 

This stuff looks good and cheap enough…-10 AN 2 ft. please.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/railstock.jpg

 

The NA Toyota fuel rail uses 11mm injectors and the spray/intake side is 16mm. I need a 14mm style on both sides. These are the stock Denso 325cc on the left the turbo cars used 460cc. My Delphi 1000cc on the right.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01123.jpg

 

BIG IN TEXAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/turp_0612_turbocharged_toyota_supra_review/index.html

 

 

I drilled and then reamed these holes to be exactly .530 inches this is what the Magna fuel rail measured at. It can be a little more, but do not go over .550 inch. I also beveled it so the o-ring can slip into it.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00981.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00976.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00984.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00993.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00957.jpg

 

Compared to the Lexus fuel rail this looks big.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00955.jpg

 

Compared to the Conquest Magna rail.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00992.jpg

 

I want it pretty…so after welding the mounting tabs I powdercoated it and put the -6 AN fittings. This is -10 AN fuel rail ½ NPT tapped ends for future fuel upgrade.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01120.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01122.jpg

 

Now to fix the intake for the 14mm injectors.

Edited December 20, 2009 by Laodicea

[Laodicea]

The intake had 16mm holes in it. What do I do to get 14mm holes? I can buy bungs to weld into it…that may be difficult getting them all perfectly angled and not messing up on the welds on all 6. Lets make some bungs and drill and tap the intake.

 

I took some 3/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT reducers and drilled and reamed them with the 35/64 to accept the injector.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01044.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01050.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01035.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01037.jpg

 

Intake needs to have a jig setup so I can drill straight down while the intake is set at the perfect angle. That is why it is mounted on the wood apparatus. Drilled and tapped to 3/8 NPT

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01030.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01031.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01032.jpg

 

They even fit perfectly flush on the inside.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01124.jpg

 

Lets make it pretty too now.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01111.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01112.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01113.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01115.jpg

[Laodicea]

If you can find them, a FFIM (front faced intake manifold) is needed. They are also like around $800 shipped. Ya know what? They also use the stock lower runners most of the time when they make these. Last time I checked aluminum it was .83 cents a pound. Lets just see what $20 does.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DS00898.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/D00896.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00958.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00961.jpg

 

This cut was hard to do…

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00960.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00959.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00975.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00974.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00973.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00988.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00987.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00985.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC00986.jpg

[Laodicea]

I did drill it out and die grinded a few hours to get it blended good, but these pieces are not very photogenic…as I am.

 

La Cosa Nostra......notice the colors of the shirt...LOL

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/04-11-09_259.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01069.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01068.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01054.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01074.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01073.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01075.jpg

 

I needed more than the standard 4 ports. We need brake booster, boost guage, boost regulator/wastegate, FPR, BOV, MAP sensor, heater a/c controls, cruise control, AIC valve. Putting them underneath may have been better but I wanted to be able to see them at a quick glance if any came off…others have put them in the rear too.

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01125.jpg

 

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t18/gr8white1/2JZ%20Project/DSC01076.jpg

 

Yeah it just looks like the injectors are all crooked in there. I just set everything on there for the pic…they fit great and at the correct angle..no kinks.

 

That $20 of 3/8 T6061 and 4 pipe paid off…Garland Steel scrap pile is my friend now. I Still need to TIG the throttle body flange and cable mount. Ill do that when it is in the engine bay so I can measure the angles just right. This way when I TIG that throttle cable adjustment tab to the side it is not rubbing against the edge of where it exits the guide causing it to grind and fray like on the magna intake. I am using the Ford 4.6L 65mm throttle body for now. I mean my charge pipes are only 2.5 anyways…no need for that 100mm throttle body yet. Also I may need to do an angle down and lower right orientation to the throttle body so the intake pipe will be an easier fit and possible hood clearance since the intake will be closer to the front of the car. Then it will get a powdercoating.

Edited December 20, 2009 by Laodicea

[DClark3one3]

Wow man, Nice work !!!

 

How did you calculate how much air the 4" tube would flow? Is there any math behind it or is it just fit and go?

 

 

Im looking at building a custom MPI setup for my G54 but the only thing that scares me is the math behind it all.

[AzStar]

Will you be bringing this car to Vegas?

 

That is some heavy duty machine work you are doing! Assuming all 2JZs are the same (front sump) and since you are rocking with the machine work, why not build several sets of the motor mounts. I am sure you could sell them to those of us less mechanically inclined (no welder or machine shop here).

[shoquest2007]

Yeah Mad Dax dose some good work. I have seen this stuff in person and it looks alot better in person than in pictures. Keep up the good work.

[BOHO]

Keep up the good work....I love custom.

[serpentkilla]

Very nice bro, you really should look into fabbing the motor mounts bracket and tranny mounts for that motor in our cars.

[OBSESSIVE_ENT.]

that was all the way hot. man i should have payed more attenttion in math class. yeh I would be in line for those mounts.

 

again you guys are making me want to go to sears and get a tig welder.

[Laodicea]

Wow man, Nice work !!!

 

How did you calculate how much air the 4" tube would flow? Is there any math behind it or is it just fit and go?

 

 

Im looking at building a custom MPI setup for my G54 but the only thing that scares me is the math behind it all.

 

I did no math..except for measuring the cuts..LOL. I copied the idea of a very popular $1900 manifold....and it is not even polished. see link

 

http://www.rossmachineracing.com/supraintake.html

[Dave-O]

Beautiful work. Really making me consider a Toyota plant instead of a GM V8.

[JustPaus_88TSi]

You might want to taper the end of the plenum, it'll give you a more optimal flow to all cylinders.

[Laodicea]

You might want to taper the end of the plenum, it'll give you a more optimal flow to all cylinders.

 

Well I know what you mean....but I don't really feel like cutting the end of it off now that I already welded it on...lazy on my part. I really did think about it but I didn't know that it would make a difference or did research on it to know the importance of it.

[nasteboyii]

i really like the ideas you have, i thought about the same thing, with the intake manifold

so i will try to accomplish the same , but with the angle (in the back for better flow), and will build mine for the bigger throttlebody up front.

 

i m in the process of the same swap , im running the 2jz gtte, with stock twins for now, running a gm powerglide, and stock modified driveshaft, w/gm torque converter, jw bell housing, a ross machine adapter plate , and a custom flexplate/flywheel.

 

whats ur email address, or hit me up nasteboyii19943@yahoo.com

would like to pick your brain a bit sometime, trade some ideas etc

 

also running a griffin radiator/still workin on making the intercooler, and piping

made the mounts. (hell i think that was the easiest part of this whole process)

 

still have to worry about all the wiring stuff as well.

you wouldnt happen to know were to get the 2 chassis connectors (one for the main engine harness and the one to the ecu) just a thought

 

here is one of my pics

dan

[Chad]

I don't think the plenum needs to be tapered, the #6 runner needs to have the same access to the pressurized plenum change as any other runner, so making the plenum physicaly different at the back vs front will upset this balance concept.

 

Remember, when the # 6 valve is open, the other 5 are closed. Each intake even is independant of the others. Tapered runners would only make sence in a static flow where they were all open at the same time, 100% of the time. It's actuly a series of rapid and brief puleses, one per cylinder. They all need to have about the same prelum responce, which is why the stock one he cut up is designed with 2 chambers between the runners and TB. The stock intake seems to be a very well thought out design, and I bet has a great deal of engineering behind it.

[nasteboyii]

ill have to partial dissagree with you, i m not sure in every application but i can tell you on a stock b series vtec engine, with four of the same runners, with same access to air pressure, (on a stock intake manifold) number 3 cylinder gets the most air, then number 2, and 1/4 are the least amount of air. this is why number 3 will always run the hotest, and number three is the second closest to throttle body

 

im sure there is many laws of physics and other reasonings behind how this works/doesnt work

im sure it has something to do with the swirling affect in the intake manifold, and how it is pulled into each cylinder, this is also why the aftermarket intake manifolds with the plenums (cant think of correct word) inside the manifold per individual runner, will actually come up and off the port of the manifold (Looks like individual throttle bodys on inside of manifold)

 

i hope this is not to much of a ramble, its late, and im typin fast as i can while im thinking of it

 

now whether or not i can prove that theory is obviously past me, but i can tell ya from my experience , changes will make a diff, it could change were power is made, how much, increase in torque vs cost of hp etc

 

dan

Edited January 3, 2010 by nasteboyii