Coke Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 After having the unexplainable cooling issues in Pigeon Forge this year...it was recommended by some that I pay a visit to a radiator shop once I get home. Today I stopped by Parise's Radiator, in Batavia, NY to see about getting mine rodded and just overall cleaned up. He made me pop my hood, inspected the fan clutch, and observed the radiator. I had asked him if he does rodding, he said yes but he may not be able to do it on this radiator. The heat required to loosen the solder that holds the tanks on, sometimes loosens the tubes from the core, creating a leak. He would see more once he gets the radiator out of the car. I said I would remove the radiator myself, then bring the radiator to him. He was fine with that. He said it would be between $40 and $60 depending how dirty it is inside and stuff. Sounds like a plan....I've got the car in the garage now, with the hood open waiting for it to cool down so I can pull the radiator out and drop it off to him either tomorrow or maybe even tonight before 5...depending how quickly it wants to cool down. I hope he can rod the radiator, everybody on these boards gets this procedure done when they take it in, I don't see why he can't?? Besides...that's what I specifically want done. While the radiator is out...I'm going to replace the fluid in the fan clutch to a heavier silicone grease, and find some foam air vent tape you sometimes use during home improvement, to seal the fan shroud completely to the radiator, so the fan is forced to suck air ONLY thru the radiator, and not thru the cracks around the shroud. I can't think of what the foam tape is specifically called....but it usually comes in a roll of like 10 or 20ft. 1/4inch thick foam on one side, 3M adhesive on the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) You can get the stuff used to seal a cap to a pickup truck also. It comes in several different thicknesses and widths. Good luck bud. Edited July 6, 2011 by dmyers151 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 This is pretty much what I'm trying to find http://priuschat.com/forums/members/boo-albums-prius-picture1542-barrier-redirect-block-stop-bar-green-speedo-glare-windshield-cut-6-inch-piece-1-2-inch-x-1-2-inch-black-foam-tape-self-stick.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 This is pretty much what I'm trying to find http://priuschat.com/forums/members/boo-albums-prius-picture1542-barrier-redirect-block-stop-bar-green-speedo-glare-windshield-cut-6-inch-piece-1-2-inch-x-1-2-inch-black-foam-tape-self-stick.jpg Aisle 23 on the left lol i'll see that exact thing at work in about an hour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jisleyjr Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Will that foam stand up to the heat?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Hahahah find out if it has a maximum temperature rating on it. I don't want it to melt, when the radiator heats up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) it is also called camper tape......good stuff should hold up fine to the heat. Edited July 6, 2011 by wrngwae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) I have had my factory OEM radiator rodded out 5 times over the 23 years I have owned her. The past 3 times at Sims Radiator and AC in Lawrenceville GA. They never had a problem of melting the solder for the rad core tubes' joints when melting the pan female to male joint solder to get the pans off. And I NEVER had a leak after I reinstalled the rodded out radiator. Sounds to me like he's just trying to Cover His A if they overheat the rad core removing the pans using a "rose bud" or torch to apply the heat. I would be leery if he said that, cuz he may not have anyone in his shop that has a lot of experience doing this with the advent of Aluminum and plastic/AL rads over the years. As far as the foam seal - make sure that the foam and/or it's glue can withstand the Starquest's HIGH engine house and approx 200+ Deg rad temps. Personally I would use something else. For What It's Worth. KEN Edited July 6, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 (edited) After having the unexplainable cooling issues in Pigeon Forge this year...it was recommended by some that I pay a visit to a radiator shop once I get home. Today I stopped by Parise's Radiator, in Batavia, NY to see about getting mine rodded and just overall cleaned up. He made me pop my hood, inspected the fan clutch, and observed the radiator. I had asked him if he does rodding, he said yes but he may not be able to do it on this radiator. The heat required to loosen the solder that holds the tanks on, sometimes loosens the tubes from the core, creating a leak. He would see more once he gets the radiator out of the car. I said I would remove the radiator myself, then bring the radiator to him. He was fine with that. He said it would be between $40 and $60 depending how dirty it is inside and stuff. Sounds like a plan....I've got the car in the garage now, with the hood open waiting for it to cool down so I can pull the radiator out and drop it off to him either tomorrow or maybe even tonight before 5...depending how quickly it wants to cool down. I hope he can rod the radiator, everybody on these boards gets this procedure done when they take it in, I don't see why he can't?? Besides...that's what I specifically want done. While the radiator is out...I'm going to replace the fluid in the fan clutch to a heavier silicone grease, and find some foam air vent tape you sometimes use during home improvement, to seal the fan shroud completely to the radiator, so the fan is forced to suck air ONLY thru the radiator, and not thru the cracks around the shroud. I can't think of what the foam tape is specifically called....but it usually comes in a roll of like 10 or 20ft. 1/4inch thick foam on one side, 3M adhesive on the other. Here is a comment from a Starion owner of the same car for 22 years. If your car is not overheating, there is no reason to have it rodded out. Most Starquest Overheating problems are due to one or more (there are three) electric fans not operating, or a faulty Thermosensor.Check those first, prior to having someone rod out your radiator.P.S. Ditch the Fan Clutch and install Radiator Electric fans. I have done it both ways. Electric is the way to go.I don't believe in having a Fan Clutch on a Turbocharged car at all because of the high temps. that a turbocharged car operates at. You are better off with a electric fan set up. Bill Edited July 6, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironside Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Justin I had mine done right before PF and other then a had wire connection my car run below the half mark the entire trip. It won't hurt anything to get it done by no means. Is the a serviceable life on a clutch fan before a fluid change? I didn't have any more problems after me and Bill found the bad connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NotStock88 Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 since the mechan fan doesnt provide additional coolingr after 40mph i would lean towards the radiator/cooling system being plugged OR clutch fan being bad. Also, no need to run a radiator shroud, the shroud is just for protection against people putting their hand down there. of course this is IMO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 I thought you were running an alluminum sr20 rad, how is the water pump and thermostat? You can also check for cold spots .on your rad when the car is warm this means there is no hot coolant flowing through and the rad is clogged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 The shroud is there to direct the airflow. Without it, the fan just moves air in a radial mannor, and won't pull air though the radiator. the shroud forces the air to flow though the blades and gives it a definate and singular direction to travel, that inturn forces that air though the radiator. The shourd problaby doubles the flow rate though the radiator at low road speeds, and does not cause any additional strain on anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Here is a comment from a Starion owner of the same car for 22 years. If your car is not overheating, there is no reason to have it rodded out. Most Starquest Overheating problems are due to one or more (there are three) electric fans not operating, or a faulty Thermosensor.Check those first, prior to having someone rod out your radiator.P.S. Ditch the Fan Clutch and install Radiator Electric fans. I have done it both ways. Electric is the way to go.I don't believe in having a Fan Clutch on a Turbocharged car at all because of the high temps. that a turbocharged car operates at. You are better off with a electric fan set up. Bill Clutch fans work better. They flow a LOT of CFM. More than an electric fan could ever imagine. Plus, they are easier on the charging system. Lastly..my car never had electric fans. It's a flat body. Justin I had mine done right before PF and other then a had wire connection my car run below the half mark the entire trip. It won't hurt anything to get it done by no means. Is the a serviceable life on a clutch fan before a fluid change? I didn't have any more problems after me and Bill found the bad connection. I don't think Mitsubishi every intended the fan clutch to be "serviced" but it's the same design as a Toyota fan clutch, and those WERE meant to be serviced. Toyota even sells Fan Clutch fluid. since the mechan fan doesnt provide additional coolingr after 40mph i would lean towards the radiator/cooling system being plugged OR clutch fan being bad. Also, no need to run a radiator shroud, the shroud is just for protection against people putting their hand down there. of course this is IMO Definitely not true. The fan shroud is designed to draw air from all corners of the radiator, and suck thru the fan. Without a shroud, you'll definitely notice a decrease in cooling efficiency. Sealing it, will only INCREASE the efficiency of the shroud. It definitely wouldn't HURT anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted July 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 I delivered the radiator to the shop this afternoon. It'll be ready to pick up tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 If you are going to use a mechanical fan, using the truck clutch instead of the turbo clutch along with the larger diameter turbo fan you'll pull more air from going a few more rpms at the cost of some additional "noise". http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/g54bfans.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 (edited) I would also remove the oil cooler and the oil cooler jumper lines and clean 'em out. Don't forget that the engine oil does two things for the engine: 1] It absorbs engine block combustion heat as it travels through the block/turbo & frictional heat; then transfers that heat out of the system at the oil cooler. 2] Provides engine lubrication. I'd also pull the engine oil filter adapter and check the engine oil thermostat for proper operation IAW http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1122&sid=9798836892397f281e202be64a70ddb2. I have always wondered what percentage of the G54B T engine's heat is removed by it's oil system. I would imagine that it is a significant amount, especially from the turbo. Anyone know? For What It's Worth. KEN Edited July 7, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Clutch fans work better. They flow a LOT of CFM. More than an electric fan could ever imagine. Plus, they are easier on the charging system. Lastly..my car never had electric fans. It's a flat body. According to Indiana's post a clutch fan will flow 3433CFM @ 2000 RPM. 1568CFM @ 1000 RPM. FSM specs a clutch fan at 2800RPM with a pulley speed of 4000RPM, at 149*F. Where does your car idle at?? One 12" slim cheapo ebay electric fan will pull 1700-2000CFM. Get two of them going and you have some cooling power. Or a 16" Taurus fan, 2500CFM on low, 3800CFM on high. BTW, the intercooled radiator is better than the non-ic radiator. More fins per inch, 27% better cooling capability. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted July 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 I got the radiator back from the shop yesterday. He noted that some of my fins along the bottom edge are falling out. He did clean the inside of it out real good. Installed it when I got home and it still ran warm on the freeway. 55-60mph it runs cool. If I crank it up to 80mph on the freeway, it wants to run around 1/2 to 2/3 still (205-210). My buddy was over yesterday with his TSi to assist and watch me install the radiator and I looked at mine. Your right. The TSi radiator does have more fins per inch. I guess I'll have to look for a good condition TSi radiator to throw in the car. I will also seal the shroud to the radiator; I didn't get around to doing so yesterday. Heavier fan clutch fluid will be on the list of things to do, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Why not just get an sr rad, electic fans and be done with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted July 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Why not just get an sr rad, electic fans and be done with it? I have an SR radiator sitting here in the garage. 3 Row. I installed it, and I could not fit anymore than one 14" fan in the engine compartment because I still have air conditioning. The fan motor hit the compressor if I moved one of the fans all the way down. Running just one fan is not enough. It would not stay cool. That is why I reverted back to the stock radiator/fan clutch/shroud. The clutch fan would not fit with the SR radiator. It would rub the bottom end tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dred_85.5_TSI Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 A two row SR20 rad will fit just fine with the clutch fan. With a little inventiveness the shroud can be used as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 I run 2 12" electric fans on the 3 row sr perfectly. It willl get up to half on the gauge when its 100* and im stuck in traffic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Yeah, the electric fans will flow more than a clutch fan at idle, which is where it counts. Unless you feel like revving your engine way high. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) I'm still running the Stock Mitsu. radiator and Electric fan set up. In 1994, I did have a Secondary fan motor go out and replaced it with a new Mitsu. one. This radiator has never been Rodded out or Re-cored.In 2003, I changed the Secondary thermosensor to a Primary one. And I have since 1989, always changed the Coolant at suggested intervals. Now I use 50/50 pre-mix Prestone, the "pink stuff". Yes, I had the car when I lived in So. Cal. for 6 years prior to moving back east. So, I was use to running it on 100 degree plus days in stop and go traffic.The only time it overheated back then was due to the Secondary Fan Motor failure. Since then....Never. Runs half way on the Stock Temp. Gauge, even at 100 degrees plus temps. Yes, it does get up to 100 degrees plus in Montana during July and August If one Electric fan cooled my 1923 T-Bucket with a small Ford replica brass radiator and a 454 Big Block Chevy..Two or three of them (electric fans) will cool your Starquest, especially if you change out the Secondary thermosensor with a Primary one. That way they will all come on at appox. the same time, max.cooling Bill Edited July 13, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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