81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 Finally got to take the quest down the road,smooth idle, reving is great,but under a load at 3200 it acts like it has water in the fuel..It sputters,acts super crazy! The turbo begins to spool,and then thats when the problems start, with out the spool its clean and smooth.. I didn't try to go past the sluggish/stutter at 3200,but push the clutch in and it revs smoothly past it. I am running stock psi,everything is basically at stock settings. any thoughts?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 I'm gonna say fuel delivery (clogged inj or filters) (maybe a bad connector) or boost plumbing leak. Since it's really an electronic carb-like system attached to an ecu it's easily fouled. Stock mas swap is a fairly easy test to see if that changes anything. Testing and having stock injectors cleaned is important. If the secondary just gushes fuel you could have a rough time as well. Fuel pressure needs to rise about 1 psi per lb of boost from base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 When at a idle does the nipple that the FPR connect to suppose to have vacuum? Also there is no places near my house that does injector cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 When at a idle does the nipple that the FPR connect to suppose to have vacuum? Also there is no places near my house that does injector cleaning. The FPR we use doesn't do anything if vacuum is there, only boost causes it to change. Remove the injectors and ship them off, its a quick turn around time. www.witchhunter.com What happens in neutral if you just floor it, does it puke or does it rev up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 In neutral it will rev smooth,no hesitation at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DzNutz Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 Make sure all your IC hoses are tight. It sounds like a boost leak to me. Are you running any aftermarket BOV or anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 (edited) What is your fuel pressure reading on full boost? And when is the last time you changed or checked your fuel filters? There are five of them. One in-tank at the fuel pick up.One before the fuel pump.One under the hood, prior to the throttle body.Two screen filters in the injector holder housing. Even if it revs up and runs smooth at neutral,under a load, one or more of the fuel filters could be the problem Bill Edited November 17, 2010 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 As of now Dz everything is pretty much as it was stock..I don't have a BOV or anything of that nature. 17c,stock piping,just a solid cam,and non jet head...everything else is like from the factory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 You can hear the turbo spool a little,and then that when the stutter comes in...I won't run it past it, its zero mile motor,so I am kinda hesitant to try to pull through the stutter trash! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 (edited) Caliber,I dont have a fuel pressure gauge mounted...I just wanted to get it running in its stock form then put goodies on it.Also I rebuilt the Tb, clean the screens in it good,new filter up front..I havent touched the others, can you get to them with the tank in the car? Edited November 17, 2010 by 81zfan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 Caliber,I dont have a fuel pressure gauge mounted...I just wanted to get it running in its stock form then put goodies on it.Also I rebuilt the Tb, clean the screens in it good,new filter up front..I havent touched the others, can you get to them with the tank in the car? Yes, through the access plate in the rear deck. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 Alright thanks dude...I will check them this evening,by chance can you get these items at a local parts store like advance,napa,and such? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 (edited) Alright thanks dude...I will check them this evening,by chance can you get these items at a local parts store like advance,napa,and such? If you are still running the stock fuel pump and are using the small cone filter,I don't think so, but I could be mistaken. On the in-tank filter, they might. I know Mitsubishi carries them and i'm pretty sure Dad has them too. Part no. MB129890. Bill Edited November 17, 2010 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 I haven't changed anything on the fuel system as far as the pump or anything in the tank. I will check them tonight and see whats going on with them. The one in the tank is like any other in tank screen I am guessing..can you just clean it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 You can try.The screening is very fine. After you pull it, you will see if it is clogged up. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 Alright..I will post results tonight and go from there! Thanks a Million Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted November 17, 2010 Report Share Posted November 17, 2010 Alright..I will post results tonight and go from there! Thanks a Million Your welcome,Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 ok.. so I checked the intank screen and it was spotless,the filter under the hood was also clean, the filter only has maybe 10 startups on it. I drove the car again and noticed that when slowly going through the rpm's it will pull to 4500 without any pops/misses, but when rolling into the throttle it will stutter at 3200 like before, I am afraid to hold it past that not knowing whats going on under the hood. I then checked the TPS again and noticed that once i set it at 50 and popped the throttle open it would set itself either really high or really low. Reset it to 50 again and the same thing happens. Could the TPS be causing this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 also checked IC piping,checked for vac. leaks around th TB,and checked Dist. advance and it hold pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 The the TPS off, looks at the plastic parts, if the opening for them to stick on the shafts is loose the TPS will not work properly. Fuel can soften the plastic, make the hole sloppy. There's two pieces, one on the throttle shaft and the other on the TPS shaft and they both come off. If either of the two sides of the part on the TPS is broken off that part is no good to use. With the TPS removed, turn the throttleshaft and watch the direction it moves and make sure when the TPS is put back on the parts line up and it will let the TPS twist and not break either of those plastic arms. Any quick TPS movement even with the car running and you turning the TPS shaft in your hand would cause the secondary injector to fire same as if you mash the gas pedal to the floor with the TPS mounted on the throttlebody. The many reason the TPS is there is for that bit of fuel enrichment just like an accellerator pump on a carburetor. If the TPS is working and it still does this then its the secondary injector clip or the injector. Even clean clips can get loosened up and not make contact with the engine vibrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 Both of those parts are there I looked this evening,nothing is missing from either side. I can try to tune the TPS in and its all over the place,and it wont stay on the volts Set it too, it will go up or down 10 to 20 numbers either way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 The cone filter is no longer used.N/a. You must use a filter before the pump or the pump will wear out do to rust or dirt in fuel.Also clean the tubes leading to the pump.Once you get that done disconnect top hat on T/B turn on car and see if you get clean fuel out at the T/B in to a can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 We have already established this! I am trashing all the stock s*** when i get it right this time. but thanks dude!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 18, 2010 Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 The TPS can't be doing that. Use an ohm meter on it, twist the shaft in the TPS yourself and it should move evenly and steady up and down not jerky and have dead spots. If they have sat for a long period it might take a few twists to clean them up then they will work again. You didn't see that the two flaps on either side on the end of that one plastic piece is broken off? The bump poking out from the piece on the throttleshaft must lay in between those two plastic tabs so that what you are saying it happening, can't. There isn't any slop for that white plastic piece that pokes on the end of the throttleshaft? and none on the part for the TPS? When you get the two parts lined up but don't put the screws into the TPS to mount it, you can twist the entire TPS one way carefully and it will stop because the TPS shaft only moves so far then twist it back again to the other extreme and it stops there too? It might be bad, if the screws aren't tight and its up flush to the end of the throttlebody, if you bump it and move it up/down that does change its reading so it has to be tightened down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81zfan Posted November 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2010 All parts are in contact on the TPS. You can be at a idle and turn the sensor all the way to either side and the idle doesnt change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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