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*Help* G54b Dodge Challenger 1983


Starwolf
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Well i have no idea where to post this...since a LOT of the things on this car are very similar to the flatties.

 

I have been having problems with this car since we rebuilt the motor in it about 4 years ago.

Just for some info on the car it was my mom's first car and my oldest brothers first car. Mom bought it brand new.

 

Well since it has been my first driver as well it seems to be having some major issues.

Right now i believe the fuel pump went out on it and i plan on getting another one soon since driving my 5.7 hemi is killing me on gas.

 

To name the main problem i would like to fix without actually spending a LOAD of cash...

 

It basically just seems extremely short on power..

First gear and second gear seem to be fairly good on power...but 3rd 4th and 5th are TERRIBLE.

Also the thing never seems to want to rev past 3k...ever.

Seems like it would blow up if you actually pushed it to 4k.

 

If its a really serious problem i wont bother...it still drives...just hardly makes it up hills :P

 

Thanks if ANYONE can help me with this..

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clogged catalytic converter? Need to rebuild the carb, perhaps the jets are bad or the accelerator pump is broken or something, you could put this in virtual mechanic, I suppose. Anyway, good luck, have you ever taken it to a shop to just get it diagnosed? do that and fix it yourself. :)
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The clogged cat is my guess...but would it really keep it from never revving over 3k?

 

I dont think anyone around here knows ANYTHING about these cars..they seem more confused than i am.

 

Any idea what it would cost to rebuild the carb on one of these?

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depends on what' wrong with the carb, you might just try getting a can or two of carb cleaner from napa or any other parts store and taking off the carb and cleaning every little thing, then reinstall it with a new gasket kit (if you can get that).

 

Hows the distributor? do the weights move freely? does the vacuum advance work properly (hold vacuum)? Check over the dist and make sure that's not the problem. does the car have a knock sensor or any computer to run the engine (i.e. spark retard if knock is detected?).

 

Just throwing stuff out there.

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Technology thanks a lot for the advice...im not quite sure how to check all those but i will try tomorrow asap.

 

Also i have no idea what type of computers run these cars? or what? no idea.

 

And JSmitty im not quite sure how to check that either * Technology somewhat explained :P

 

Sorry for being such a retard. :S

 

If carb cleaner would fix it im all for it...i could also check the exhaust and see if thats the problem.

 

All this going to happen tomorrow.

 

Any other ideas?

Edited by Starwolf
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First thing I would do is get a car manual at an autoparts store. It has step by step procedures to test parts and functions. No your not retarded, just takes learning and experiencing first hand. Take off your air cleaner should either be socket or wing nut. Then move the throttle linkage should be on the side of the carb will look like a lever with a spring and make sure the first throttle plate opesn then move it the linkage more. The throttle should be opening almost full then the second throttle opening should start to move open. Feel if it feels like it is stick or hard to move. You can also try it while it is running at idle same procedure some carb secondaries work off vacuum on will not open unless it sees an increase in vacuum. Edited by Jsmitty
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First thing I would do is get a car manual at an autoparts store. It has step by step procedures to test parts and functions.

 

We did get a car manual for it. The Colt/Challenger/Sapporo one but it just doesnt show enough imo.

 

I will dig it up and have a deeper read in it this weekend...see if i can find anything.

Thanks for the help!

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Probably has the mikuni carb on it. If it's bad, which it sure sounds like it is... due the secondary not opening... DITCH IT.

 

Get a weber carb/kit to bolt right on and make more power than ever. Check ebay, they've got a grip on there.

 

BTW, the secondary is vaccum operated under a load, by looking inside and revving it... you probably won't see it open and spray.

 

I ditched the mechanical fuel pump, and went with a cheap autozone lifetime warranty electric.

 

-Robert

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Thanks a lot Komeuppance!!

 

But i think the weber carbs are expensive...i really didnt want to have to spend much money on the challenger yet.

 

Even though i heard they actually weigh less than the flatbody starion :P

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What other motor are you considering? Not many will "drop in" without some custom (=$$) fabrication.

 

Fuel starvation from clogged filters, dents in the fuel pipes anywhere, pinhole leaks in the pick-up tube in the fuel tank, etc. can cause your symptoms. So can problems with the "secondary" side of the carburetor.

 

Carb rebuilding isn't exactly hard. Mostly you just have to pay a LOT of attention to what you're doing. Auto parts stores typically have carb rebuild kits - a collection of gaskets, o-rings, needle & seat, etc... basically any/all rubber and paper parts. You take the carb off the car (label EVERY vac hose, draw pictures, take digital photos, etc.) and then disassemble it on a workbench. Clean everything with spray carb cleaner or a large tank of carb parts washer solution. Clean out all old gasket residue and re-assemble. When taking a carb apart you'll find:

* little ball bearings used as plugs/stoppers... and they come in different sizes so you can't mix them up.

* springs to push on those ball bearings. The springs+ball bearings form one-way "check valves" between various carb passages.

* Lots of rubber diaphragms with springs behind them... engine intake manifold vacuum sucks on the backside (side with the spring) of the diaphragm to move it... then when vacuum drops (i.e. you stomp on the throttle pedal) the spring pushes the diaphragm shooting a wad of gas somewhere. Or vacuum sucks on a rubber diaphragm (again fighting against a spring) and the diaphragm pushes/pulls on linkage to open the "secondary" throttle plates. These rubber diaphragms eventually develop splits/tears/pinhole leaks and whatever they worked doesn't work any more.

* Soft brass screws. Make sure your screwdrivers fit perfectly... otherwise these things just strip.

* Small tubes or parts that look like picollo tubes: these help mix the gas plus air.

 

The Weber conversion is not a bad option at all. It can give anywhere from stock horsepower to 20% gains depending on the car. Most Weber conversion kits come with fairly detailed instructions though they won't be specific to your car model - you'll have to know what vac hose is the "EGR" hose for example.

 

mike c.

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LOL... if you're not getting your secondary going, then it will make the BIGGEST difference of your life. It's even a great upgrade over a GOOD stock Mikuni. If I remember right, the stock is a 32/32. Weber is gonna be a 32/35... unless you drop the dukets for the "outlaw" 35/35. They make FAKE 34/34's sold on ebay... I think. Check with weber to see if it's real before you buy. If the weber didn't change your life, then you can always resell it... it's quite popular. However, if this is going to be a daily driver for you, then definitely save up for the weber...

 

FYI, the N/A g54b is rated at 106-110hp... with loads of torque. I don't have the torque numbers on me; but, anything to up the power will make this machine more fun.

 

Please save yourself the heart attack and do not attempt to even rebuild the mikuni. Sure, some carbs are easy to rebuild... but the mikuni is a nightmare. Perhaps there is a junkyard carb out there... you're gonna have to get a near similar year for your car, I believed they changed a few things in 85 and up. Check d50's and mighty max's.

 

Also, to do a quick check on your cats, unbolt the pipe after the header, and go for a quick run... LOL... get ready for LOUD. There is a precat built into your header, the BIG round cylinder looking part is it... might be clogged as well.

 

-Robert

 

Oh yeah... let's see some pics!!

Edited by Komeuppance
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Yes the top 2 will work. I don't know where they got those numbers for the Challenger and Sapparo. U.S. only got the 2.6

 

Sapparo

4G32 1.6 L I4

4G52 2.0 L I4

4G54 2.6 L I4

4D55 2.3 L turbodiesel

4G63T 2.0 L I4 turbo

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Alright im going to attempt to add photos of my challenger....

 

I tried to resize them so hopefully that works?

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/lokiguard/ChallengerBayResize.jpg

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/lokiguard/ChallengerDashResize.jpg

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/lokiguard/ChallengerFrontResize.jpg

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/lokiguard/ChallengerRearResize.jpg

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/lokiguard/ChallengerSeatsResize.jpg

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj197/lokiguard/ChallengerSideResize.jpg

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Okay just a quick update...

 

We were messing with the carb on the car...and thought to ourselves we might as well pull the crap one off of the parts challenger.

 

We noticed that under vacuum that the second butterfly valve opens all the way...well that looks good we thought.

 

We pulled ours off after running the car around...and tried the same.

 

It was leaking air AND the second valve didnt open all the way...just a tad.

 

Well we replaced that little part that NOW holds vacuum...but we have no good gaskets to put the thing back together.

 

We are going to a parts store right now and looking for a electric fuel pump as well.

 

Also about to replace the REALLY cracked manifold with a mild cracked one...lol

 

Cross your fingers please!

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Okay well sorry to spam my own topic...just have a few more updates..

 

The parts store had the throttle body gasket seperate...AWESOME! and will be here tuesday!

 

Sadly they couldnt even find the manifold gasket...the one that attaches to the exhaust...wonder if they sell a metal sheet we can just punch through to make our own??

 

Other than the exhaust and fuel pump problem (hopefully its just the fuel pump and we will get another)

 

I should be driving my 2 barrel carb car soon...much better than 1!

 

Still crosses fingers.

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GREAT!! 2 barrel = fun... haha.

 

That dash looks almost the same as an 83 starion dash, crazy mitsu. EDIT: Just spotted the power locks/locks, dash, center console, shift boot+knob... AWESOME.

 

You should be able to order parts for a 79-86 2.6 d50/mighty max/caravan, or any year Starion... many of them are the nearly same, like the exhaust manifold gasket.

 

-Robert

Edited by Komeuppance
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