TexasQuest Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 I installed new battery cables and battery and as soon as I touch one cable after the other is connected it sparks like crazy and starts melting the connections on the battery. It doesnt matter if the positive is on first or negative. I've cleaned all the grounds. What the hell could be causing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Code Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 You have a dead short somewhere..Most likely the positive lead is grounded. Check the the 2nd lead that ties into the positive lead, maybe its insulation is worn and hitting the chassis or frame. Just my $0.02... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 (edited) Are you SURE that you are putting the positive cable on the positive battery pole and the negative cable on the negative battery pole. If not, then you fried your ETACS computer module. If the battery is hooked up correctly then M Code hit the nail on the head. You have a dead short between the positive and negative side of your lady's electrical system. Did you do anything to your Lady immediately before this problem started or did it happen all at once? If you did something, check what you did and see if it's hooked up IAW the FSM Section 8 wiring diagrams. If it happened all at once then you have to go through the wiring harnesses looking for burnt/melted electrical connectors or melted sections of the wiring harnesses wrapped coverings. At the very least you have to clean all of you fusible links and their fuse boxes male and female metal connectors; the rats nest of wiring under the battery tray and behind the metal cover outboard of the battery and those wiring connector's male and female metal terminals/connectors and all of the relay male and female connectors. This is just for starters. I would also look at the alternator grounding and it's wiring to and from the battery. Check the positive cable from the battery to the starter for rubbing in the body frame or missing insulation. Everything I mentioned above is covered in the below link. See the below link for pictures and trouble shooting on how to restore the electrical system. http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1180&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 I would also download the FSM at starquest garage and use Electrical Section 8 to trace the wiring through the various circuits that are powered all the time whenever the battery is hooked up. Good Luck!!! For What It's Worth. KEN If this problem is not a result of something that you did improperly, then this is a PRIME Example of what happens when a Starquester does not clean or inspect the Starquest's electrical connectors/fusible links/wiring harnesses. Edited November 29, 2010 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 Check the charge wire at the alternator. If you let it twist around as it tightened it can be touching the alternator case and cause that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted November 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 I'll check every connection at my next chance. I cleaned all the fusible links about a month ago before I found my original batery cables were shot. Yes the cables are not crossed up, i double check that everytime I remove them. I noticed the ISC motor clicked whenever it sparked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted November 29, 2010 Report Share Posted November 29, 2010 The positive wire only goes to the starter and the charge wire only to the alternator and the other wires to a fuse link holder. The negative only goes to the block and the frame rail. If the start motor wire is on and touching the other lug that just will mean the starter will run when you connect the battery. If the ring terminal for the charge wire did twist and there's nothing that prevents it except you HOLDING it while the nut is tightened that means there's your short, you have that positive charge wire grounded. Take the positive wire off the battery and put on the negative. Take the wires off the positive terminal and touch them one at a time to the positive post. I bet its that charge wire that's your problem but your fuse link, if one is still there and you didn't eliminate it, should have burned through and it may have fried your alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 ok, im gonna back track. what happened to cause you to put in a new battery? if it's just general upkeep, then that's one thing. if something happened and youre battery was dead dead and you couldn't jump start it obviously this is the problem that killed the battery and is now draining your new battery. unplug the alt cable end and the cable going to the starter and then briefly touch the battery terminals to the battery to see if it sparks (the spark implies that there is a draw somewhere). if no spark, then you're draw is within something attached to either the starter/starter circuit or the alternator/alternator circuit. which means you'll have to hook only one of those back up, then hook up the battery cables and see if it starts sparking and heating up. if it does, then that's your faulty system. if not, then it's probably whatever system you haven't hooked up yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 I'll check every connection at my next chance. I cleaned all the fusible links about a month ago before I found my original batery cables were shot. Yes the cables are not crossed up, i double check that everytime I remove them. I noticed the ISC motor clicked whenever it sparked. the isc is moving? i think it's just trying to reset itself because you had the battery out. anyone else care to comment on the ISC movement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Hmm I didn't realize the TPS/ISC motor reset itself after the battery has been removed. Do I have to do the reset procedure now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 off hand im not sure. but i dont think you need to worry about that yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 Ok upon further inspection the positive wire was touching the harness under the intake mani. That's the only wires that were touching each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 well, the + touching under the manifold is definitely a direct short to ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 So that would be the cause of my problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Code Posted November 30, 2010 Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 So that would be the cause of my problem? Any postive (RED) battery lead that has worn insulation and/or is burned through coming into direct contact with the motor, frame or chassis is a dead short...And it will spark big time!! Just my $0.02.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 The cable is brand NEW. NO bare wires are touching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 ohhh, so no wires touching anything? have you disconnected the started and alternator yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 No I never did. I replaced the battery cables cause the insulation was coming off and showing wires. I replace the alternator with a reman about 8 months ago. Starter is original as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 well you need to do some troubleshooting. unplug those two things and see if there;s still a draw. those are the two things that would cause enough draw to cause sparks and heat the ends, if the starter or alternator is shorted it will cause what you are experiencing. other than those two, the other circuits don't really draw enough current to discharge the battery and cause that much heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 FIXED!!!!! The negative battery cable was not grounded. The other groundwire that shares the same spot as the neg. cable was under the battery cable so it wasn't grounding. I swapped wires and wallah it runs fantastico! Thank you all so much for your insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted December 1, 2010 Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 hahaha you had a whole wire missing?? glad it was something easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted December 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2010 No not missing, just the wrong one on top of the other lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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