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1UZFE swap build and collective information thread.


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#1 jmswltn

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 07:08 PM

As it says this is the collective information thread for anyone interested in swapping the 1uzfe into a conquest.

I bought an 88 fatty Conquest that had/has an engine I chose not to rebuild do to a burned valve. I also have a 1uz waiting to be swapped into something.

This will be my second swap using this motor the first is into a 91 4runner using the auto trans converted to 4wd retaining the 4runner factory cluster and cruise control.

I will be altering this first post to reflect any useful information found later in this thread..





#2 TexasQuest

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 07:33 PM

Awesome. Best of luck to ya.
88 Fiji Blue -Tsi
Zoom clutch, Fidanza flywheel, Stedebani shifter, KSport coilovers, ST swaybars, abs delete, a/c delete, cruise delete, JVE, BSEK, TEP steel brake lines, LSP braided cooler lines, CX Racing radiator,  MK1 silicone hoses, MK1 pullies, *DM hard pipes & intercooler,14G turbo, ported exh. manifold, MAF Translator, 3.5" GM maf, Turbo XS RFL bov, *DM 3" exhaust, Cusco front strut bar, TEP rear strut bar, Enkei 92's, HKS turbo timer, AEM wideband, AEM boost gauge, AEM oil pressure gauge, Hallman boost controller
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 JohnnyWadd, on 04 March 2010 - 10:01 PM, said:

my shaft was big i dont know what your talking about.

#3 jmswltn

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 11:51 PM

Not much to post yet. I've got the block stripped down to the short block. I've cleaned all the mating surfaces in preparation for the mls head gaskets and arp studs I'm waiting on from suprastore.

I also picked up a uz front sump oil pan and bellhousing from the bone yard.

I have been collecting different parts to mate the AR-5 transmission but nothing completed yet. it started off with a bellhousing that is supposed to mate the r154 trans to uz block. The seller never told me they kept the required spacer plate, so thats going back. Today I ordered a(nother) kit from www.1uzfeswapkit.com just to get this part of it over with.    

Anyway here is the current plan so far:

1uzfe: cometic mls hg, arp head studs,flipped sc400 manifolds to 2 inch vbands, y pipe to b/w s366 (maybe), 630cc ev-1 injectors, 044 pump, ms3x.

I had a thought to use the m122 supercharger I have laying around but its just to hard to find the right snout to fit with this motor.. if anyone has a lead on gen 5 m(p)90 snout assembly for a decent price let me know. this project could take a turn.

Chevy colorado AR-5 trans using 3vz-e flywheel and stage 3 pressure plate with the stage 3 sprung puck clutch, internal slave, upgraded bore master cylinder. probably some sort of spacer for the slave but cant be sure till I get it together.

As for the drive shaft I'm thinking something along the lines of a torque tube flange adapter with a chevy slip yoke positioned in the center of it. from what I've read I don't think I want any part of the starquest u-joints.

#4 importwarrior

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 06:02 AM

hope to see lots of pics!

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#5 D-VO

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:17 PM

Awesome man! I considered doing this swap as well, but found a nice deal on a 1JZ. Also the adapter kits for the bellhousings are pretty pricey.

I'd skip the supercharger for now and just get the thing running.

Post pics!

#6 jmswltn

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Posted 16 January 2016 - 10:48 AM

Here are some pics of what happens to cars in the rustbelt


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It took nearly 4 hours to get the headlights out and the front bumper cover off. I broke and stripped out a few fasteners and the bottom pattern of bolts for the bumper cover were just a long row of rusty rivot looking things that stayed in the cover as i ripped the lower mounting tab off the steel bumper core.

Does anyone have a bumper core I can get shipped to 43616.
not saying I couldn't spend a day or 2 fabbing up something to work I just don't want to.

still waiting on parts...

#7 D-VO

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Posted 16 January 2016 - 12:57 PM

You're probably gonna cut up whatever you do put on the car. I'd keep that one, get your intercooler (if you're going S/C) situation figured out, cut it up, replace the structural elements you need (assuming you have a welder) and POR15 it.

#8 jmswltn

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Posted 16 January 2016 - 02:43 PM

Cutting up or not this one is done for. There was nothing holding on to the bumper cover across the bottom. and the light mount is about 1/4 way gone. Believe me i'll have more than enough half-assery going on in this project to let this one fly. I'm really hoping someone is willing to slap a label on one and ship it to me :)

There is plenty of time to worry about that later.

the supercharger I bought a couple years ago and has sat on a shelf since. just was thinking about using it because i have the cad files to get a new upper made to suit it.. and I already own the dang thing.

I'm going to be using a flex fuel sensor to adjust boost and timing accordingly I figured I could get away with not intercooling it if I primarily run e85.

I've seen a picture a guy posted on the 1uzfe page that had a manifold for the s/c but utilized a fmic. I couldn't find any resources to how or who made it but it looked pretty good for a custom one off job.

#9 D-VO

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Posted 16 January 2016 - 03:47 PM

If you're running e85, you'll be able to get away with no intercooler a lot easier.

That said, if I was gonna do a V8 car, I'd go ITB's and a nice exhaust for that racecar sound.

#10 jmswltn

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Posted 17 January 2016 - 03:57 PM

I love the sound of a turbocharged vehicle..so that is my goal with this so far. After test fitting I'll see how much room I'll have to work with as far as down pipes and turbo fitment.. it may end up staying n/a.

#11 jmswltn

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Posted 24 January 2016 - 07:18 PM

Still waiting on hg and studs..

The front end is now bare, dash, blower box, engine harness have been removed.

I've figured out all the wiring for the cluster. I am wanting this to look as stock as possible on the inside. The one thing I will need to work out is the speedometer being cable drive I'll have to come up with some sort of motor drive similar to this:

http://www.summitrac...vnMzhoC-UDw_wcB

Hell I may just go with that if I can get the output to work with our cables.

Another thing that has been giving me hell trying to figure out is the torque tube. Mine gives off a very clear ting-ting sound when the flange is spun back and forth slightly. This leads me to believe it is pretty worn and probably dried out. If I'm having something machined I am kind of thinking about getting a yolk to fit the differential. Instead of having a flange adapter made for the torque tube thats worn anyway and has kind of a weak bearing.

Here is the post for that:
http://www.starquest...58#entry1508932

"EDIT" found out pst will make a shaft using our tt flange pattern and a stronger u joint

http://pstds.com/sho...num-driveshaft/

Here is the parts list so far

EV1 80 pound injectors
2 044 clone fuel pumps
late model camry/rav4/corrola coil on plugs
ms3x
1uzfeswapkit.com r154 adapter kit
2004 chevy colorado ar5 transmission
toyota 3vz stage 3 pressure plate
colorado 9.25 stage 3 sprung 6 puck
chevy 3/4 ton driveshaft to ?

I'm still hoping to go with the b/w s366 but the power levels may be above this build spec and I don't really think a 4" exhaust is going to fit very well.

Edited by jmswltn, 24 January 2016 - 08:38 PM.


#12 importwarrior

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 11:31 AM

Coming along so far so good.

B-71 87 TSI ~ RIP

Black 87 Starion ~ Mess SOLD!!!

Proud New 89 slightly Rusted Fiji Owner !!!




#13 scott87star

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 06:33 PM

Quote

I don't really think a 4" exhaust is going to fit very well.

Nobody said it had to be round.
Now selling true plug and play megasquirt!  Absolutely the best value in stand alone ECU's out there.

I can upgrade your Fuel Injection Pro firmware

Performance Coatings!  Pistons, manifolds, bearings and more!

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#14 mbruneaux

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 09:02 PM

View Postscott87star, on 26 January 2016 - 06:33 PM, said:

Nobody said it had to be round.
These guys any good?   http://www.spintechm...s/prod_100.html
Canterbury, CT
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#15 jmswltn

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Posted 08 February 2016 - 06:29 PM

View Postmbruneaux, on 28 January 2016 - 09:02 PM, said:

These guys any good?   http://www.spintechm...s/prod_100.html

Nice find, $150 for a 40" piece is kinda crazy though... I suppose if you really needed it.

No progress to speak of yet between the cold and waiting on my hg and studs.
I did get an email stating that they had been shipped so test fitting should happen soon.

I pretty much got my injector situation sorted. ev1 injectors require a .535 opening for the top and bottom orings to seal correctly. the 1uzfe uses a 11.5~ mm fuel rail and a ~15.87mm manifold port. My plan is to drill out the fuel rail to 13.5mm (.531") and use a shim for the intake made from 5/8" aluminum tubing. I'll need to adjust my fuel rail spacers accordingly and my need injector retaining clips as well.

I found the cop ill be using but will need modification as well not much just enough to be annoying..

Edited by jmswltn, 08 February 2016 - 06:31 PM.


#16 jmswltn

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Posted 24 February 2016 - 09:44 PM

so many speed bumps..
The head gaskets and studs finally showed up last week or so.
Here is my the new pita
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Because of the shoulder location on the studs they do not screw in enough.
ARP left, and factory right.. the tape shows the distance they thread in. This is fine everywhere else but under the cam scissor gears.

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How much it sticks up out of the head:

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here is the sad sad quest
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In further news I'm into the fuel system woes now. It quickly becomes overwhelming getting into fuel lines, surge tanks, pump and filter mounts, filters (pre and post), flex fuel sensors, wiring, pressure sensors,pulse width modulation, amp draw and regulators..

this stuff is making me want to stay n/a for real!!

who thinks I should just stick with the factory fuel system (+upgraded pump) and keep the boost down?

#17 jmswltn

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 04:47 PM

And then this happened

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come on now!!!

it would have been cheaper just buying a 2jz by now, this is completely foxed up!!

#18 mbruneaux

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 04:51 PM

That's ridiculous, how easy was it to snap off?
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#19 jmswltn

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 05:45 PM

View Postmbruneaux, on 25 February 2016 - 04:51 PM, said:

That's ridiculous, how easy was it to snap off?

it just kept turning before being torqued to spec. everything done as per arp's instructions. Now the threads in the block are potentially screwed up from the block *end of stud* threads also stretching. It took vice grips the whole way to turn the studs out of the block..

Edited by jmswltn, 25 February 2016 - 06:55 PM.


#20 jmswltn

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 10:29 PM

This weeks update..

I got the head studs out, repackaged, shipped back and new ones back on monday.

I installed:

new ARP head studs using the proper torque for that size
assembled the heads
new timing set
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water pump
installed front sump pans and pick up
cut the flanges off the exhaust manifolds and separated the primaries flange
test fit the motor with different forward facing manifold combinations
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removed the engine cradle (k frame, is that what it's called?)

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I'll most likely have to do some sort of steering rack swap as this nasty hunk of crap hanging off the frame rail looked pretty bad before I started taking everything apart. It could be from the leaky master cylinder but I doubt it.. either way its in the way of progress.
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Is there an off the shelf ss brake line kit? Mine are scary cracked up..
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I've also been working on my speedometer options over the last couple weeks. This unit is out of a civic but the signal is generally the same. Although the needle will be pegged the odometer still responds up to 480hz or about 400mph!!
http://vid1248.photo...zpsyaujdhtj.mp4




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