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Bee hive valve springs ?


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#1 importwarrior

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 05:19 PM

Bee hive valve springs ?

still available? i want a set of decent springs and would like any help getting a set.

any other suggestions would be good.

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#2 ucw458

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Posted 03 August 2020 - 08:51 PM

Why would you want to mount a beehive on springs?







:P
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#3 importwarrior

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Posted 04 August 2020 - 04:16 AM

:)

i know right. i got one set for one of my Aussie heads. i want another set for my 2nd head.

if anyone has a better spring out there then i am willing to try them. please point me in the
right direction.

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#4 psu_Crash

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Posted 05 August 2020 - 10:31 AM

I bought a set off Ebay about a year ago. A quick search didn't bring them up though...
The seller's name was smw70ss. Maybe you can contact him?

Edited by psu_Crash, 05 August 2020 - 10:34 AM.

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#5 Turbo Cary

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 05:33 AM

I'm fairly certain the bee hive valve springs are just GM LS valve springs.

#6 importwarrior

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Posted 06 August 2020 - 06:28 PM

Thanks for all the help. i believe i heard the GM LS comment before. possibly from you also...
i will look in to the LS springs thank you all.

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#7 psu_Crash

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Posted 07 August 2020 - 10:18 AM

View PostTurbo Cary, on 06 August 2020 - 05:33 AM, said:

I'm fairly certain the bee hive valve springs are just GM LS valve springs.

Hmm .. I have a gen 3 LS1 sitting here. Maybe I'll have to take a look
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#8 scott87star

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Posted 09 August 2020 - 11:33 AM

The LS springs are too small big end ID IF you want to use the stock spring base and I think you'd have to machine the head to use smaller ones.  I'd like to know where he was getting those springs too, I have a set on my flatty and it was a pure drop in application.  I've been through many spring catalogs online without success.
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#9 jinx

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Posted 09 August 2020 - 01:14 PM

lot of hi boosted 2.6s rev out without beehives, no ?
Isky mentioned this thread not 'decent' ?   http://www.starquest...howtopic=157984

#10 psu_Crash

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 10:02 AM

I ran the Isky springs with a roller cam from RPW ... and it floated valves which eventually completely chewed off the top of the valve right down to the retainers.
At first install with the new Isky springs they did not float. Some time over the next few months of autocross use they did though. I'm sure they would be fine for "normal" use. My application required more
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#11 psu_Crash

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Posted 11 August 2020 - 08:08 AM

Go get them before they are gone again!
https://www.ebay.com...nEAAOSwgyxWVjiV

Interesting that the seat pressure at 1.6" is just slightly less than the Schneider HD. I bet after both have been run these hold their specs better. And look at the open pressure. I really need to put the roller cam back in and see if these are up to the task B)

SPRING SPECS:
Seated pressures
80lbs.@1.650"
90lbs.@1.620"
96lbs.@1.600"
Open pressures
188lbs.@1.300"
197lbs.@1.270"
209lbs.@1.240"
218lbs.@1.210"
228lbs.@1.180"
239lbs.@1.150"
251lbs.@1.120"
262lbs.@1.090"
276lbs.@1.060:
Coil bind
1.020"

Edited by psu_Crash, 11 August 2020 - 08:15 AM.

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#12 croquest87

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Posted 11 August 2020 - 08:09 PM

I ran the Isky springs with a roller cam from RPW ... and it floated valves which eventually completely chewed off the top of the valve right down to the retainers.

I have seen that with beehive springs but not to the extent that you described .Perhaps pressure was little to much for the top of valves to last and had pretty good amount of wear.Always thought it would have been a good idea to use little hardened inserts on top of valves to prevent that. Anyone familiar with Briggs or Kohler engines knows what l am talking about.

#13 psu_Crash

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Posted 12 August 2020 - 01:20 PM

View Postcroquest87, on 11 August 2020 - 08:09 PM, said:

I ran the Isky springs with a roller cam from RPW ... and it floated valves which eventually completely chewed off the top of the valve right down to the retainers.

I have seen that with beehive springs but not to the extent that you described .Perhaps pressure was little to much for the top of valves to last and had pretty good amount of wear.Always thought it would have been a good idea to use little hardened inserts on top of valves to prevent that. Anyone familiar with Briggs or Kohler engines knows what l am talking about.

Yeah i know what you mean with the hardened caps. These were brand new valves from Randy with hardened tips. I triple checked that lash and seat pressure were good to go. Apparently it did not stay that way. MAYBE had 500 miles on it before i noticed it eating the valves.
Take a look at what's left of this ...
https://photos.app.g...9Kn1tXAuWt6PVAA
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#14 importwarrior

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Posted 12 August 2020 - 07:37 PM

Awesome thanks for the heads up.

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#15 croquest87

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Posted 12 August 2020 - 09:40 PM

I think Snider springs are perfect for our application. More than stock but not to much.
I have also seen top of stock valves worn out with stock springs and hydraulic lifters and all. My best guess is that valve guides where worn out or to dry for the valve to move freely. Also not uncommon for the valve guide to move as it is only pressed in .  Usually caused by overheating or just a sloppy machinist on a monday morning lol.


#16 psu_Crash

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 07:17 AM

View Postcroquest87, on 12 August 2020 - 09:40 PM, said:

I think Snider springs are perfect for our application. More than stock but not to much.
I have also seen top of stock valves worn out with stock springs and hydraulic lifters and all. My best guess is that valve guides where worn out or to dry for the valve to move freely. Also not uncommon for the valve guide to move as it is only pressed in .  Usually caused by overheating or just a sloppy machinist on a monday morning lol.

Hard to say now. It was a new head with new valve work done. I can tell you the guides are SHOT now. That may have played a role in its demise.
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#17 psu_Crash

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Posted 13 August 2020 - 07:17 AM

View Postimportwarrior, on 12 August 2020 - 07:37 PM, said:

Awesome thanks for the heads up.

You got it!
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#18 Tim_C.

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Posted 18 August 2020 - 11:22 AM

Top of valve wear is due to hydraulic lifter issues.
BeeHive springs do hold their tension better from what I've heard. I haven't tried them.
I always set up the Schneiders with a shim to get 110 ft lbs of pressure at the seat. This will lose 10Lbs to settle at 100 and not go much lower if at all. Others may have had different results, but that is what I experienced.
It depends on the roller cam lobe characteristics as to whether or not a certain spring will work over time. Dual coils can't be beat by any single coil spring. However, the search for those is even tougher to find out which springs James CNM was using. He was the only one who offered the dual coils. I bought my set from him years ago and they still work well on my Schneider 284RH roller hydraulic cam.
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