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Maxzillian

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About Maxzillian

  • Birthday 01/30/1986

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    maxzillian@cox.net
  • Yahoo
    maxzillian
  • ICQ
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  • Website URL
    http://www.maxzillian.com
  • AIM
    erjhe

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Autocrossing, atv riding, general tinkering, machining, a few other things.
  • Location
    Ks: Newton
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Zip Code
    67114
  • Model
    Conquest
  • Type
    TSI
  • Model Year
    1987
  • Transmission Type
    Manual
  • Factory Color
    Rio/Mexican Red
  • Interior Color
    Black
  • Status
    On the road

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  1. That's just his hobby. He's working for some conveyor manufacturer now, usually playing with grain silos. He did get out if the SQ game, his car trading hands a number if times now. I know cokedoctor just sold it to another member not long ago.
  2. Somewhere between removing the steering box (and replacing the seals) and getting the lower control arms loose from the rear hubs. The steering box is just a royal pain to get to and remove; the lower control arm required an impact to rotate the bolt while someone hammered on the bolt using a hammer and punch.
  3. A little late on this update, but ultimately I fixed the brake balance problem by doing to a dual master cylinder setup. By carefully selecting different bore sizes between the front and rear brakes as well as using a balance bar to fine tune it, I've managed to bring balance back to the brakes of the car. Typically I have them set to have as much rear bias as I can handle without the brakes throwing out the rear end on corners at autocrosses. On the street this balance seems to work well without problems. See the link below for details (last page for final photos). http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=131151
  4. Yeah, the pump is very similar, based on what I saw when I rebuilt my pump and did this modification. I'd hesitate to say they're identical though. To be clear, my pump "rebuild" was merely a seal kit; I did not replace or do anything to the pump vane assembly.
  5. They fit the stock 8" rears, but to run 7" fronts would require spacers. I ended up converting the front end of my car to flatty suspension parts to make the rear wheels fit the fenders, but that does have some negative effects to scrub steer. http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=119370
  6. Work on getting ducting to the front brakes first and be sure to flush your fluid yearly. If that doesn't keep the brakes from boiling over, then it's worth the trouble to upgrade to larger brakes. I went through the hassle of upgrading the fronts to 12.75" rotors and four pot calipers... even with those I need to install ducting to keep them in check. You may as well try the ducting first!
  7. Man, I hate to think of just how much pedal force that'd require though. I'm running a 5/8" master cylinder to the rear and a 3/4" up front to balance out the stock rear brakes to the four piston Wilwoods I have up front. Even with those tiny master cylinders and some additional leverage from the linkage between the pedal and cylinders brake force is still pretty damn considerable. I can't imagine what a 1" master cylinder direct to the stock pedal would feel like.
  8. I agree, in my case I'm using two of the smallest master cylinders Willwood had to offer to keep the total mechanical advantage as high as I can manage. Part of my problem with cold brakes likely has to do with the pad selection I have (Hawk HP+). If they were a street oriented pad they'd likely work much better when cold.
  9. Yeah, I get the point... just throwing out a word of caution. There's a reason cars don't use single piston setups anymore and most racing organizations won't even let the master cylinders share the same reservoir.
  10. I think mine came from an Evo VIII. I ended up cutting the bumper to make it fit, but I honestly advise against getting it to completely fill the air path to the radiator; setup as such airflow to the radiator is restricted too much and cooling can become a challenge. It's a good idea to bypass some air past the intercooler. The inlet end tank was removed so a baffle could be installed and a pipe was welded into the top to mimic stock routing. The outlet was relocated to be able to pass underneath the frame rail and then through the hole where the washer tank used to sit. As I have a relocated battery I was able to run a pipe up through that area and to the throttle body. http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler4.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler5.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler6.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler7.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler8.jpg Everything was torch welded with an arc welder rod. It took forever and looks like hell, but works great and didn't require me to find a TIG. http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler9.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler10.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler11.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler12.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/intercooler13.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/enginebay.jpg
  11. I wouldn't use anything like that just for the matter that it's a single piston master cylinder. If the front or rear brakes develope a major leak, you'll end up losing all brakes. The bracket may be fine, but that master cylinder belongs on a clutch.
  12. Back from the dead! I finally got around to taking photos of the finished product... I do want to make a new bracket to get a little better mechanical advantage as well as reduce flex further, but overall I've been pleased. While the brakes a bit of a bear while cold, once warmed up it's plenty easy to lock up the racing slicks. I definitely don't recommend this for a street car, however. Especially if someone else sits in the car, they'll find the brakes are extremely stiff when cold. http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders5.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders6.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders7.jpg
  13. This is a dual cylinder setup I put on my car, largely so I could run different size cylinders to make up for four piston calipers up front and stock calipers out back. It also incorporates a balance bar and linkage to reduce pedal effort. I did have to partially box the top and bottom to get rid of some flex in the assembly. http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders1.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders5.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders6.jpg http://maxzillian.com/starion/mastercylinders7.jpg I would like to re-design it a little further to try and increase the mechanical advantage as well as use a thicker gauge steel to reduce flexing. However, it still works exrtemely well and has managed to handle the depands of autocross and racing slicks.
  14. I got one of the first kits and the instructions said to just snug the springs.... I'm convinced that adding preload makes the car ride and handle better. What's better is that you can adjust the attitude of the car by chaning how much preload the front and rear has in relation to each other.
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