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Mustang 13" Cobra Brake swap


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So I picked these up last night for $400. I think I can make them work, its close but the clears the wheels. My biggest concern is the distance from the stock mounting location to where the caliper sits, somewhere around, 1-2" Its going to be a pretty thick bracket. Also they do not fit over the stock hub.. about 2mm needs to be ground off the hub in order for them to clear.. no big deal. Heres a few pics, hopefully I can get going on it tonight.

 

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/IMAG1619.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/IMAG1618.jpg

Edited by Convette
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I think it'll work.. Whats your guys take on making the brackets out of Aluminium? I need to mesure the exact distance, but I feel like steel will be too heavy, and if its thick enought aluminium might be a better choice? Thoughts?
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Your great at welding vette. It if you hav a choice between solid aluminum block vs welds, I'd go block. So much stress and heat over time, especially how hard you run her, I would feel safer with solid block, but I haven't seen the drawings of the mounts. If you can through bolt, I would go aluminum. If your relying on the block as a mount and it will be threaded, go steel. But your plenty smart and have great fab skills, I am sure you will do what's best. It's not rotational mass so don't sacrifice your safety for 10 lbs of bracket weight. Safety first!
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Aluminum will be fine. All of our brakes, on all of our race cars, (and there are alot of them including our road course cars), have aluminum caliper mounts bolted to steel mounts machined into the spindles.

http://i601.photobucket.com/albums/tt93/BC_99/bW1jMS9EQ0lNL0NBTUVSQS9TU1BYMDAzMC5qcGc-1.jpg

 

I like where you are going with this, so please take pics and keep us updated on your progress.

 

BC_99

Edited by BC_99
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Thanks again BC. Thats good to know. Heres some pics, didnt' get anything done last night some other things came up.. I'm going to a machine shop tonight to get the center bore opened up a bit so it fits the conquest hub. I;m debating on what to do...either cut the hub, or cut the rotor... I know the hub would prolly be easier, but I just put new bearings in them and would rather not take them apart again.. Heres a pic of the offset, its really not too bad, and will be about 1/4" less than that once the center bore fits the hub. Then I can make the brackets. Really hoping to have this wrapped up by the weekend. More track events coming... hate to miss out.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/IMAG1622.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/IMAG1623.jpg

Edited by Convette
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Looking good! I'd personally machine the hubs as the brake rotors are the parts you'll change more often. Cut the hubs once and any rotor you find at the parts store will fit. Otherwise you'll have to machine rotors everytime they need to be replaced.

 

Also, I figured this would be handy for you, here's the dimensions for the stock mounting holes. :)

 

http://www.maxzillian.com/starion/frontspindle.pdf

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Awesomesauce.

 

For the record, when I had to use random wheels to move my Cobra, I put my SHP 9"s on over the stock 13" brakes, and they just BARELY cleared. They were loose, but I didn't hear or feel any binding or grabbing.

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Yeah I should have gotten the hubs turned instead of the rotors, but whatever. The guy that did them is a f-ing idiot. I think it will still work, but I didnt have anytime this weekend. Should have some more done this week.
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I hope this works out, I was looking into doing something similar with a fox body brake set up, since they're so common. I need something better than OEM to stop my blue beast, but it has 15" wheels...
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