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While I'm replacing the valve seals..


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#1 Rich Is Poor

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Posted 11 February 2021 - 11:57 PM

Hey guys, so my 89 smokes pretty good.  Most likely the seals by the color, and how\when it smokes (or at least from what I've read) so I plan on replacing them next week.  Does anyone recommend I check or change anything else while I got the top off?  Besides gaskets of course.  I'm definitely a newbie when it comes to this stuff.  I'm trying to learn as much as I can before asking a bunch of questions so I'll just start with the one.  Thanks in advance!
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#2 Dad

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 06:07 AM

Watch on exhaust guides that none have moved down into chamber.  Not common but happens,  Hopefully you don't have that problem  or worn out guides.

#3 kev

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 08:11 AM

You can replace the valve seals without pulling the head.   But you will need a leak down tester and the right spring compressor.   You can get away not using the leak down tester by stuffing rope down the spark plug hole but I would highly recommend the tester.  

blowing oil can also be your turbo seals.

#4 kev

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 08:21 AM

Here is the leak down tester that I have.  I'm pretty sure I bought it for under $50 though...may be worth shopping around.   I'd highly recommend it.   Especially for this application.  Your head gasket set will cost more than this. Granted, you have to have an air compressor to use it but it can be a very small one.  You don't need much pressure, just enough to hold the valve up.  

https://www.amazon.c...r/dp/B0030EVL60

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For the valve spring compressor, this one from Harbor Freight works.   I did have to add a small c-clamp on the sides to prevent the arms from slipping off the spring.  You could use a c-clamp, vise grips, or whatever.  Just install them right where those holes are in the middle of the black arms in this photo.

https://www.harborfr...ssor-60335.html


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I will say that sometimes with an OEM head that has never been torn down before, it takes a bit to get the retainers to pop loose.   If you have the valve secured via the leak down test and the spring compressor installed.  It may take a hit with a dead blow at the right position to get them to pop loose.

#5 Rich Is Poor

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 01:24 PM

I'll check the guides as well, thanks for the info guys, its very helpful!
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#6 markhansenconquest

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 04:18 PM

check your power steering gearbox for leaks....its almost impossible to remove the gear box lines with out the head off......if leaking rebuild it while your there............

#7 croquest87

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Posted 12 February 2021 - 06:57 PM

If you remove your oil cap at idle and just set it back down does it dance?

Edited by croquest87, 12 February 2021 - 06:59 PM.


#8 Rich Is Poor

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Posted 13 February 2021 - 09:55 AM

Thanks Mark I'll definitely check the power steering as well, mine has been moaning every one in awhile but I think its air in the lines.  Was planning on rebleeding it anyways.  And croquest86 do you mean if I remove the oil cap and replace it does the engine idle rough?  Or do you mean the oil jumping around while the cap is removed?  Sorry for the newbie question but thats why I'm glad I found yall lol. Thanks!
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#9 kev

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Posted 13 February 2021 - 10:39 AM

What he is trying to say is if you have vacuum in the crankcase at idle.  The oil cap should want to suck itself tight as you sit it on there.   If you feel that itís trying to do the opposite than you have a PCV issue, blowby, or a mixture of both.  

When does it blow oil!  When you are on it hard, when you let off the gas why cruising, or all of the time?

Does your oil dipstick ever pop out?




#10 markhansenconquest

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Posted 13 February 2021 - 06:44 PM

use engine degreaser and power wa sh ,before starting..look for leaking oil first......




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