27 replies to this topic

[kev]

EDIT:  February 2021
Thread has now been relinked to the photos.   Note that the photos are direct URLs to the picture stored on a different site.  In some cases, the photo may be cut off, rotated, or skewed from the original.  If you have trouble viewing it, simply click the photo and it will open full size on a new tab in your browser


There have been a few threads over the past few months pertaining to the installation of a redi-sleeve for the rear main seal on the crankshaft.   I had a chance to upload the photos from when I installed mine.

Feel free to vet the following process and advise of anything you would do or have done differently.

Regards,
kev

Background:  

These photos were taken during the assembly of my current engine build.  Obviously the engine is on a stand and the stand was rotated about 45 degrees to aide in the process.   Of course, this process may be done with the engine in the car and trans/flywheel out....but I will say that it will be marginally difficult based on my experience.

Also I should note that I first installed a different sleeve, felpro brand.  The felpro sleeve didnt have a flange and was much smaller in depth.   After installation of that sleeve, I ended up knicking it up a bit and didnt like how it fit, so I pulled it off and went with a National brand sleeve.

Process:

Starting point:  rear main seal carrier is off, crank is cleaned up.   You can see the groove here.  The machinist who worked on my block/crank said that this groove would probably be ok, but I didn't like it..hence the install of the sleeve.   The black goop you see in the groove is leftover sealant from the felpro sleeve that I pulled off.  Naturally you want to get the crank crystal clean, but I wasnt too concerned about the slight remaining sealant.  





Also note the cleanliness of the carrier flange gasket mounting





Here is the redi-sleeve that I used.  I bought this from advance auto on one of those save 25% on a $100 order days.  



Opening it up; it has the sleeve, a tool, and install instructions.  Looks like this kit has been laying around for awhile;will need cleaned up good prior to install

[kev]

First up; lets measure everything.  

We want to measure the depth of the sleeve with and without the flange, the depth of the crank hub, and MOST Importantly, the depth of the flywheel flange lip:

Note:  it was hard to photo while measuring;not enough hands.  So it may look like the Vernier caliper isnt positioned square on the part..because it wasn't...I was simply trying to snap a pic.  After putting the camera down, I made sure I was taking a nice square dimension:













Doing the math:  The depth of the sleeve without the flange plus the flywheel depth only leaves .017" of gap with the sleeve pushed all of the way onto the crankshaft flange!!!! So we need to push this thing all of the way back AND remove the flange!

Next, clean up the sleeve with mineral spirits.  I also cleaned up that rusty tool.  No reason to introduce any more dirt into the system:



I used some non-hardening sealant on the crank flange.   I tend to install too much sealant/lubrication on everything I do.  My advice after looking back; use half as much sealant!





Spread it out evenly:

[kev]

Positioning the sleeve by hand:



Put on the tool and drive it on evenly with a mallet.  Be careful, the tool can slip and wedge itself on the flange!



Half way on.   It doesn’t go on too easily.   It actually started deforming the back of the tool due to the impact



Pushed until the sleeve flange contacts the block



However I measured the gap between the end of the sleeve and the flywheel mounting surface…it wasnt large enough!   Looking at the sleeve, the flange started to bend downwards upon installation.   So I had to pry it back out a little:





Drive it further:



Now it looks better:



Checking:

[kev]

Before I remove the flange, I installed the flywheel just as a double check.  Put the flywheel on and thread in two bolts, tighten up to seat the flywheel to the crank:



It's hard to snap a pic, but here you can see the clearance;looks like this all of the way around:



So pull off the flywheel and lets remove that flange...the hardest part about this install!

I used some tin snips to clip the flange.  I couldn't get it all of the way to the score in the sleeve:



Working it with needle nose:



That wasn't working well, so I took a screwdriver and lightly tapped at the score mark..it cut right thru:



Working it around with a combination of the screwdriver and grabbing/pulling with pliers.  Just take your time, that thing rips easily!  Don't want to ruin the sleeve:







Finally got it off:

[kev]

Here is what we have now:



It looks good.  I didn't snap a pic, but I had a couple spots where it started pulling up a bit.  I just used a brass punch and carefully tapped it smooth.  



Before going further, I noticed it pushed a lot of that sealant back behind the crank flange.  I didn't want that getting down to the main bearing, so I cleaned it up good with a rag and mineral spirits; don't drench it, just get the rag damp:



Installed:





Here you can see where I tapped it down lightly with the brass punch.  Sorry I don't have a pic....not enough hands, lol



The sleeve is installed.  I had a few pics of the carrier that I might as well show.

I already had the new rear main seal installed in the carrier.   To install it, I used some of that same sealant around the perimeter of the sleeve and carefully tapped it into the carrier using a block of 2x4.

Make sure the inner ring has the hole on the bottom as shown!  Very important, this allows and residual oil to drain out during operation rather than get pushed thru the seal



Oil the seal well with clean motor oil





And the redi-sleeve;  note the gasket is in place.  I put a dab of sealant in a couple places to maintain position.

[kev]

Tap on the carrier:



Sleeve is past the seal....which is good.  But still enough room for the flywheel.



Install the bolts.   I always use blue Loctite in addition to torqueing:





Torque to spec.  if I remember correctly it is 7 ft-lbs.  Check the FSM



Important;  look under the carrier and trim off the gasket protruding:








There you have it.   Hopefully this helps others.   This is fully doable on the vehicle but the difficult part will be getting off the redi-sleeve flange.  I spun the engine a bit to aide in this process which of course is harder while under the car.

[Dad]

Great job!

[importwarrior]

move to FAQ!!!!

nice write up!

[kev]

Thank you Randy!   I was hoping  you would reply.  

Rob,

Let's let it sit here or a few days first. I'm interested to see if anyone has any comments or feedback.

Regards,
Kevin

[cyberquest]

kev would you give me permission to add your write up to the PQ manuals? giving you full credit for the post obviously.

[importwarrior]

Did you happen to measure the thickness of the metal that slipped over the crank shaft?

[Dad]

importwarrior, on 23 May 2016 - 04:13 PM, said:

Did you happen to measure the thickness of the metal that slipped over the crank shaft?

I can get the wall thickness, but curious as to what anyone would do with that?

Dad

[importwarrior]

Kev measured everything else  LOL

i was just wondering how much it would add to the diameter of the crank once installed.

[kev]

I didn't measure the thickness but I think I can get the final OD measurement based on what is still protruding.   The engine is still on the stand and the flywheel isn't on yet.    I think my micrometer set goes up that high...

[kev]

cyberquest,

This info is posted publically, so there isn't much I can do to stop it from being copied/pasted on another forum.   However, why not just provide a link to this thread instead?   Reason being is that I try to maintain these few rebuild threads that I have made over the years as we learn more.  It's best to have it in one place to prevent out of date information.  

If you do copy it to the SOS boards, I'd prefer to NOT have the credit lol.  I had zero respect for PQ over the years (I can't respect someone who can't reciprocate that same respect).  I can go on and on, but lets just say that I didn't see eye to eye with him and I really don't care to have my name be associated anywhere remotely with his work.

[Dad]

GOOGLE........
Flanged Outside Diameter (Inch) 3.543 Flanged Outside Diameter (MM) 89.990 Installation Depth (Inch) 1.375 Installation Depth (MM) 34.930 Material Stainless Steel Outer Diameter (Inch) 3.543 Overall Width (Inch) 0.945 Overall Width (MM) 24.000 Part Type Redi-Sleeves Shaft Size Max (Inch) 3.153 Shaft Size Maximum (Inch) 3.153 Shaft Size Maximum (MM) 80.090 Shaft Size Min (Inch) 3.146 Shaft Size Minimum (Inch) 3.146 Shaft Size Minimum (MM) 79.910 Width (inch) 0.827 Width On Shaft (Inch) 0.827 Width on Shaft (MM) 21.010

[cyberquest]

ok kev i will just make a link to this post.

[creakyjoints]

Would it be better to weld that area and machine down?

[Dad]

Not with it in the block, plus that would cost more than a sleeve

[kev]

I guess a weld repair would be feasible putting aside the logistics and cost.  I would be concerned about human error a little in regards to the final machining.  Need the final diameter to match the original condition for proper alignment of the flywheel, you definitely don't want to increase the clearance between the crank and flywheel resulting in an imbalance.  The outcome would be much worse than a leaking seal.

As noted in the beginning, I first installed a felpro brand sleeve.  I did this with the crank on the bench (not in the engine).  As stated before, a combination of the geometry of the felpro sleeve and my poor installation technique (there wasn't a flange on that brand sleeve) made me uncomfortable resulting in changing it out with a National brand sleeve.  Obviously from the pics, I made this decision after installing the crank in the engine.  Reflecting back on both installations, it was easier to drive on the sleeve with the crank in the block (the crank was constrained) but it would have been much easier to remove the flange with the crank on the bench.   Either way, this is a pretty quick and simple way of repairing the groove machined by the rear main seal over the years. It's also the industry standard method used on more than just automotive applications.  

Regards,
Kevin